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Some of my responses on various thread topics and responses from members may not or may be directly to get a specific member(s) attention but most of the time are not meant to be taken personal as they are designed and carefully worded to poke fun at some members. If anyone is to thin skinned to understand this then or a member(s) have not been on this forum long enough yet!
Hey I admit defeat on this one.
I rummaged thru my parts cupboard and found this. I bought it 12 years ago for a Mazda 3 (which I still service) and the parts guy didn't know which one so I bought both.
Stiil got it and will probably bin it when I get back from Holidays.
If he's using hands to undo this type best befriend him.
Cup size for the smaller 302 series is 68mm don't know the larger one.
It not a war so not really a defeat. My guess is your more service oriented and not to much experience with other aspects of the automotive industry. If you read my work history like I tried a couple times to suggest, you would see not only working at a few automotive parts stores but also owning and operating a few .
There is still no need to install a spin on or caster housing so tight the you should with average physically strength spin um off . The trick for most very tight filters is no gloves dry clean hand and tapping it lightly with a rubber mallet . Naturally there is always the filter installed by mcgilla gorilla . In which case you need oil filter tools .
I only accept that those filters fit a 2008 Mazda 3 with 2.3L engine and possibly some much later ones. Regarding canister filters a lot of people don't understand how an O ring seal works. I recently did a Corolla that was previously done by the dealer and boy I busted my b---ls to get it loose. Others use tools to tighten spin-on filters. 2/3rd turn whats that. As far as servicing yea that's pretty much all I do these days Too old to bust a gut rebuilding an engine anymore. I attended an industry meeting abt 15 years ago where they analysed the growth areas and most profitable part of the motor industry and guess what it was "servicing".
I only accept that those filters fit a 2008 Mazda 3 with 2.3L engine and possibly some much later ones. Regarding canister filters a lot of people don't understand how an O ring seal works. I recently did a Corolla that was previously done by the dealer and boy I busted my b---ls to get it loose. Others use tools to tighten spin-on filters. 2/3rd turn whats that. As far as servicing yea that's pretty much all I do these days Too old to bust a gut rebuilding an engine anymore. I attended an industry meeting abt 15 years ago where they analysed the growth areas and most profitable part of the motor industry and guess what it was "servicing".
Here I go again still trying to get you to understand why and how I know things.... LOL/ I engineered and was going to release but my marketer decided the market dropped for them. That is a canister to spin on completed adapter conversion for a specific targeted platform and model vehicle. The only other company that offered this which I also wont mentioned the name dropped there product in the first year for lack of sales. Rightly so because the kit was about 200 USD. I may post a picture of mine??
And yes the O-ring roll-over is the main cause for both DIY and "'machinic" needing to re-due a simply oil filter change. LOL
As for the need for more mechanic I think if you go re-read that analysis I think you will find that it was for more educated and trained to become certified Automotive Diagnostic Technicians. General mechanics cannot without proper training via either trade school or adult and or professional institution successfully work on vehicles with OBDII CANBus and all the other electronics from manufactured say about 2015 to present. Then there is the investment in several thousand dollars in the proper diagnostic equipment.. You read it all the time on forums which are not only automotive but motorcycle, boat, auto, aviation etc members complaining that their "mechanic" or dealership could not solve the issues? WHY because these individuals are not qualified and certified to be able to work on modern manufactured vehicles.
All mechanics that work on road registered vehicles in NSW must be qualified. Off road the gov has no control. The minimum for a service mech is cert 2 and a full mechanic is cert 3 plus relevant trade experience done during an apprenticeship which normally takes 4 years. After that we have a cert 4 to offer those wanting to go higher. Other areas require additional certification fsuch as air con, LPG/CNG and vehicle inspection so were pretty much aligned to the US in that regard. To run a business you are not required to have any trade qualifications or special tools leaving that up to the individual to make those business decisions. In the olden days when I first registered my business Hitler turned up with a check list and ticked off the requsit items some being very outdated before issuing a repairers licence. I often hear the story abt they couldn't find anything wrong. Reason is if a scantool can't log it it must be good. A decent mechanic must have the ability to think outside the square and there are some that are very good at just that. It all gets done to experience and knowledge which unfortunatley these days a lot don't have because they leave the trade because of pay and working conditions and drive a truck for 3 times what they were working for. As for your adapter yea good idea if that's what one wants/need but not one of my customers would prchase it. Anyway you got me waffling big time and sorry that's what I'm good at.
For the canister I have found the simple rubber filter remover to be my friend. Just pull it tight around canister, and twist will usually loosen it. Sometimes if I'm using the hex tool to remove the filter plug, it'll remove the canister as well, Win, Win.