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Does not start. Carbattery voltage to low

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Old Nov 19, 2025 | 03:44 AM
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Question Does not start. Carbattery voltage to low

Hello everyone,

I got a Mazda 2 2004 (DY) with a a flat car battery after a few days rest.
(Has around 9 Volts, and (almost) cannot turn the startmotor)

I removed the car battery, and replaced it with a 12 volt power supply
I measured the current in complete rest. That was round 150 mA
My question; Is that normal? Can anyone verify this for me? (Seems high current value for me)
After removing the "activation key" fuse in the main fuse box beside the car battery, the current goes to very low values

So the final question is "Is the car battery defective, or do i have some unwanted parasitic current flow.

Hoping someone can and will respond.
Greetings from Henn in the Netherlands
 
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Old Nov 19, 2025 | 08:54 AM
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Welcome to the forum
 
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Old Nov 19, 2025 | 09:02 AM
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The first thing is to have any battery you are going to use load tested. The condition of the battery must be at least 12.50 voltage minimum to do the proper testing. the age of the battery has not nothing to do with its condition even if the battery was purchased new from a dealer or retailer. I always recommend that if anyone is physically purchasing a new battery before you leave the store or shop is have them load test it to verify it passes. Sticker date codes do not indicate the actual manufactured date of the battery.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2025 | 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
The first thing is to have any battery you are going to use load tested. The condition of the battery must be at least 12.50 voltage minimum to do the proper testing. the age of the battery has not nothing to do with its condition even if the battery was purchased new from a dealer or retailer. I always recommend that if anyone is physically purchasing a new battery before you leave the store or shop is have them load test it to verify it passes. Sticker date codes do not indicate the actual manufactured date of the battery.
Thank you for the reply Callisto

Unfortunatly i don't have a multimeter with a highest-lowest voltage measurement during, and after start.
Since a new car battery is not so expensive, i bought a new, and replaced the old one.
I will fully load the old one with 14.5Volts/3Amps, Disconnect when full, and leave it for a week or so, and then load it with power resistors to verify Voltage drop per hour
 
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Old Nov 20, 2025 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazda 2 (DY) 2004 owner
Thank you for the reply Callisto

Unfortunatly i don't have a multimeter with a highest-lowest voltage measurement during, and after start.
Since a new car battery is not so expensive, i bought a new, and replaced the old one.
I will fully load the old one with 14.5Volts/3Amps, Disconnect when full, and leave it for a week or so, and then load it with power resistors to verify Voltage drop per hour
This does not really work in the respect of testing a battery but good thought?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 08:31 AM
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Found schematics after a long search.
After removing the old (and defective) CD-player from the audio unit, the high current draw is gone. (Is now lower than 30 milliAmpères).
 
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Old Mar 23, 2026 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazda 2 (DY) 2004 owner
Found schematics after a long search.
After removing the old (and defective) CD-player from the audio unit, the high current draw is gone. (Is now lower than 30 milliAmpères).
Great.

You still should load test your battery based on the information on your thread you may find that the battery is not in the best of health.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2026 | 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Callisto
Great.

You still should load test your battery based on the information on your thread you may find that the battery is not in the best of health.
You are right Callisto. In the mean time i bought a digital multimeter which stores max and min voltage-levels.
I have to test both new and old battery. Did not do it yet .



For more information about solving the issue (short version);
1) Removed IGKEY2 60A fuse ---> issue gone
2) Replaced IG2KEY2 60A fuse. Removed ROOM 15A fuse ---> issue gone
3) Replaced ROOM 15A fuse. Removed J-01 (main) AUDIO UNIT connector ---> issue gone
4|) Replaced J-01 AUDIO UNIT connector, and tried to insert a CD into the cd player. Did NOT insert a CD (CD detection sensor defective?)
5) Tried to insert a cd with the eject button. The cd was fully inserted, but the player gave a rattling noise, and also showed "NO CD" message.
6) Pushed eject button, and the CD ejected.
7) Removed CD player AND the CD player print circuit board (the CD player print circuit board is in the same compartment as the CD player) ---> issue gone
 
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