Good day every one, my M 2 has done 80000 km & of late there is a staccato like ticking only after the first start in the morning when I engage 1st gear & drive off. After a short distance this disappears for the rest of the day. My concern is it seems to be getting worse.
Can anyone offer some advise as to what it might be please.

 

I got the same problem, and is getting worse. I m thinking maybe a bad timing chain tensioner to cause that timing chain to flap around and hit the valve cover. Will try to find some time this week to open up the valve cover and try to find out what is the cause of it.

 

Hello, my 2008 1.5 2 DE has the same problem. I've checked the timing chain, VVT actuator, adjusted the valve clearance...but it still makes noise when cold starting it. Has anyone solved this problem? The noise is as follows: . You can hear it at 22 seconds - the rest is injector noise (totally fine). Thank you for your answer.

 

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My turn only this is a perfectly as humanly possible performing and health checked engine.

 

But that ain´t the Mazda 2 DE mate, seems like newer one with SkyActiv.


YES! This is exactly the sound I get when cold starting mine. Lasts like 10 seconds of driving then disappears. It happens on every cold start, even in the summer. What's your lineup? I have a 2008 1.5L 76kw, 160,000 km and run 5W-40. Some YouTube guys have the same problem with 0W-20 as well. How long has your car been making this noise? Mine does this since I bought it from the previous (first) owner last year. Looks like it is not getting any worse.

 

Sorry you are missing my point of the video as well there are common sounds associated with most all engine in the last 60+ years that some of us know. Unless you do a better posting of location of the sound or at least attempt to use a tool that can locate exactly where the sound is coming from most people without a lot of experience with sounds will find it difficult with your one video to give any "sound" advise about what is a possible cause.

As for the viscosity of choice unless you use a drastic change like a 20w50 and even then, I would doubt it would make difference unless using it in 10F degree or lower ambientes. See basic information for temperature operating viscosity of oil charts and DATA.

 

I am a certified tech out of South Seattle College and also am of age and take wrenching as an auto tech seriously. And honestly your second sound is your rod bearings sad to say bud. Thing is what most individuals don't realize is that any 4 banger that has some miles it will never keep the tolerances it had new. And running oil that's like water after I'd say even 60,000 miles or even less depending on the conditions it was run is way to low in viscosity. Believe it or not I got mines at 122,xxx n change and have 15-40 being I run it in the city means its constantly stop and go or idling more than outside city driving and therefore the oil viscosity breaks down faster especially with any constant stop and go action. Rings wear and with any blow by you also get a bit of gas vapors that also add to the break down as well. Trust me, it thins out enough because I've had to do it to my older Chevy ,4.3 and it was a mild knock but I knew as with any knock that if you don't thicken that oil up your gonna loose those bearings on a hard acceleration one day. To each his own. As for the first rattling of the chain, I'm having the exact same problem right after just replacing the timing chain kit. As I see in all these threads it does the chain slap on cold starts but then quiets down. And the same when it's turned off after having run for a bit then run again, no issues at all. A mechanical engineer on another forum had the same thing as well and he believes as I do is that it's just bad engineering design. Because another guy swapped out all the parts only to have the same thing happen not but a few starts later again. Someone dropped the ball as it has happened with nearly all auto manufacturers somewhere down the line on one or more of they're vehicles. Sad thing I only bought the car because its great shape for its age and with gas prices here at nearly $5 a gallon, I don't need a bunch of power but rather fuel economy because it will move on the freeway real nice also. I see this has been a troublesome issue for alot of people who own one of these or Mazdaspeed series. But also everyone has different level of skills and not sure what brands if OEM which does make a world of difference compared to any knockoffs from overseas. I've learned and you will to if you haven't already is not to skimp no matter how much the difference on OEM in comparison to whatever else, unless they're a well known reputable source of course, because it'll bite you in the end. Especially with internal parts that must take alot of torture and abuse. But also for any that have not looked into all the recalls, the original VVT on these engines were not heat treated as they were supposed to have been and from 2012 they were no longer used. That's one theory but as said many have bought these right out from the dealers brand new and not long after the engine was toast and replaced only to fail again and again until the warrantys we're up. There's only so many parts for it to behave as it does. And I have yet to replace the vvt solenoid or vvt itself. I do the work and any others do as well then it may not be worth the money to invest in these vehicles because the return as you see would be minimal unless you found an unsuspecting individual to get over on. Because again, once the oil pressure is up and circulating, the rattles go away. and if left running for awhile it won't make the sound do to the oil pressure still being within the parts that allow the tension to remain on the chain itself. Once the oil drops and returns to the pan and you start again it's as though parts are temporarily starved for oil which if after so long of course parts will prematurely expire. Thus creating scrap metal. Check out this channel "I do engines" on YouTube and type your engine in. This guy tears them down and I wish I had see this channel before ever buying the car. He knows after upwards of 60 teardowns that these engines are notoriously known for oil starvation due to human error or as I see it just bad engineering on Mazdas part. And ive owned several other models which is known for zoom zoom! But not these ones. And from '04-'12 they made this mess and when class action sued, they said there was nothing wrong with these engines at all. 😂 I know i wrote a book huh. My bad but I had to get it out there because I see a lot of people got burned and still are from these engines!! And me being a tech I should've known better!!! Ill post a pic of it. I planned on giving it the best sporty look I can as a project. It's what I enjoy doing

 

Hallo sir NedCZ ,
Did you solve the engine problem, please if you can tell me, because I had the same problem.
Regards

 

Re "Staccato like ticking only after the first start in the morning when I engage 1st gear & drive off. After a short distance this disappears"

For my Mazda2 1.5lt ZY-VE, interested in "the Staccato like ticking"
a) With mine, "the Staccato like ticking" occurs on the 1st Start of day only, after sitting over night say 10Hrs or more, its 12 DegC ambient at present, running 5W40 Full Synth. HOWEVER "The Staccato like ticking" does not appear to occur every start, just with/on the 1st Start of day.

b) After initial start at Idle the noise is not there.

c) On the 1st Start of day only, "The Staccato like ticking" commences once there is load on the engine as the car moves off from stopped eg Reversing out the driveway & up the small Incline of the camber of the Road. It is gone within a nominal 20-30 seconds.
I'll OBDII PID Log what temperature it seems to disappear at when I get a chance. Noted the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash is ON" when the Staccato like ticking occurs.
For my 1.5lt ZY-VE the "Blue Cold Car Warning Light in the Dash" goes out when the "ECT PID" reaches 55 DegC, with a 12 to 20 Deg C Ambient this seems to typically take 1.2km to 1.5km distance with gentle driving up to 60 km/Hr.

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Logged the Power Train Module JOBDII PIDs.
[1] Actual Valve Timing Degrees:
[2] Camshaft Position Commanded Duty Cycle (1): %PWM Signal
[3] Engine Coolant Temperature Deg C:
[4] Engine RPM:
Also;
[5] Intake Manifold Runner Control: %PWM Signal
[6] Relative Throttle Position %:

JOBDII PID Trace Graphs for "first start Cold Start" However, NO Staccato like ticking on this Particular START Occasion
(Will try again to capture OBDII PIDs when it occurs)

Fig[1] Cold START at 35 - Log of AVT CPCDC RPM ECT 0to165 ECT of 57DegC at165


Fig[2] Cold START at 35 - AVT CPCDC RPM & Intake Manifold Runner Control 40to220

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Fig [3] OBDII PIDs for Mixed Stop Start to 60km_Hr
At 650RPM Idle the "Actual Valve Timing (Deg) PID" shows a small adjustment say 1 degree to improve emissions.
As you accelerate off from Idle & Stopped the "Actual Valve Timing (Deg) PID" shows adjustment to say "29 Degrees"at (630 to 640 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base) to say "31 Degrees" at (710 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base).


Fig [4]
a) stopped 650RPM Idle (1230 to 1240 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)
b) accelerate gently to nominal 80km/Hr (1240 to 1250 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)
c) Maintained a Nominal 80km/Hr (1250 to 1320 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)
d) Stopped 650Rpm Idle (1320 to 1340 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)
e) accelerate gently to nominal 60km/Hr (1340 to 1350 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)
f) Maintained a Nominal 60km/Hr includes slow down & accelerate thru a roundabout (1350 to 1410 on the X Axis Time/Sample Base)

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Thoughts are:
[1] Clean the "Cam Shaft Position Oil Flow Control Solenoid Valve Sections" & ensure the "solenoid plunger/shaft" moves smoothly through the "Actuation Coil & its Laminations"
Noting the "Camshaft Position Commanded Duty Cycle 1 (%)" a nominal PWM Style Command Signal to the VVT Oil Control Valve that adjusts the "Camshaft Phasor Vane" Position.

[2] Clean the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVTi Oil Screen/Filter
...Where on the Mazda2 1.5lt ZY-VE is the VVTi Oil Screen Filter?

Appears:

Fig [5] Marked Up Extract of from 1.5lt ZY-VE Parts Cat, possibly accessible from the Timing Chain Cover Area?
However there is "No obviously Marked VVT Oil Screen/Filter Plug" visible when you look under the Bonnet

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Looking thru:
MZR 1.5 Engine Workshop Manual 2010_05 P_N 9999–95–MZR–11 70Pgs


Fig [6] Pg18 01-10-4 shows the 1.5lt ZY-VE VVT Oil Screen/Filter Location

Hmmm....it seems you have to remove the Idler Pulley to Access it, so not surpising its not readily visible?
(Not a great idea Mazda/Ford, but at least its better than some other Mazdas where its under a 10mm Allen Key Cap in the CamBearing Retainer so you have to remove the compete Cam Cover....or worse with some Toyota's eg 2ZRFE or 2ARFE where you have to remove the Cam Bearing Retainer to access the VVT Filter from the Underside of the Cam Bearing Retainer.)


Fig [7] Pg63 01-10-49 1.5lt ZY-VE VVT Oil Screen/Filter

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When removing the Oil Screen/Filters from Toyota 1ZZFE's etc the "Plastic Section that engages into the Metal Plug" are often Brittle with time/heat/oil exposure & break.
=>> When others have cleaned their Mazda 2 1.5lt ZY-VE VVT Oil Screen/Filter
[a] Did the "Plastic Section that engages into the Metal Plug" break? ie is it best to Purchace a new one before taking it out?
['b] Is the Aluminium Crush washer reusable for the first cleaning/change of the VVT Oil Screen/Filter?

Thoughts welcome?

Rob