2018 mazda 2 sport nav+
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2018 mazda 2 sport nav+
2018 mazda 2 sport nav+
Car intermittently starts, but has flashing immobiliser light, keyless entry light goes red and flashes a load of warning lights, I've had to replace 2 engine management fuses but can't find the issue
Only shown 1 code (P2610) but not always there, says its because the car can't tell how cold the engine is but the cars had no issue for weeks and can't find anything else wrong with the car apart from it blowing fuses
car has already have keyfob batteries changed
Any help greatly appreciated
T.I.A
Car intermittently starts, but has flashing immobiliser light, keyless entry light goes red and flashes a load of warning lights, I've had to replace 2 engine management fuses but can't find the issue
Only shown 1 code (P2610) but not always there, says its because the car can't tell how cold the engine is but the cars had no issue for weeks and can't find anything else wrong with the car apart from it blowing fuses
car has already have keyfob batteries changed
Any help greatly appreciated
T.I.A
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 10,665
Likes: 233
From: Northern California
You need to do more than generically checking one area of your ECU. Your description sounds like an intermitting issue, and you will find other areas in the ECU that will have more information.
But....... before you go any further the first thing you "must" do is have your batter load tested. No matter how old it is or that you charged it, those mean nothing until you load test the battery.
Universally a common DIY mistake is using a none directly connected to the OBDII diagnostic scanner (Bluetooth scanning devices and program are not DIY friendly) and then only looking at current DTC. A DTC itself is only a starting point to start a diagnostic plan of action on how to find the related issues both with the DTC and the symptoms. But without at least looking at the basic 3 areas in an ECU a single found in the common active DTC area of an ECU really are less then helpful and often leads many to start replacing parts without confirming if they are failing or failed.
But....... before you go any further the first thing you "must" do is have your batter load tested. No matter how old it is or that you charged it, those mean nothing until you load test the battery.
Universally a common DIY mistake is using a none directly connected to the OBDII diagnostic scanner (Bluetooth scanning devices and program are not DIY friendly) and then only looking at current DTC. A DTC itself is only a starting point to start a diagnostic plan of action on how to find the related issues both with the DTC and the symptoms. But without at least looking at the basic 3 areas in an ECU a single found in the common active DTC area of an ECU really are less then helpful and often leads many to start replacing parts without confirming if they are failing or failed.
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