I have a 2001 tribute which has been a good car. 260,000 miles
so the other night after work I get in, start it, and I am driving home. When going into 4th seat it slips out of gear then back into gear. I had to stop at a light and when it went green I hit the gas and it revs but no gear. I put in park then back into drive and it moves. I pull into a gas station put it in park then back in drive and I have nothing. I did this about 4 times and still no drive gear. I shut it off then started it and I got gears but still wants to slip out on the 4th. So I drove cautiously and it would stay in gear but never got the final dropdown gear. I got home put my reader on it and my code is P1744 about the torque solenoid. Now for a long time I haven't been able to get my key out when I shut it off. I was pulling the ignition fuse to get it out. Finally I just hooked up a toggle switch to that fuse.also when I put it in park the designator that tells you what gear your in has not worked properly for a while. Only in park though. I forgot to say while driving home the O/D light was flashing. That's my story and if someone can give me a little help with what they think it may be I would appreciate it Very much. I put a new ignition switch and transmission range sensor on it. I did not have the tool to center the TRS though so that may as well be adding to the problem. I know they say you need it I just don't know how important it is. Thanks again.

 

first clue... 260,000 on the original automatic is something to brag about!
So how about the service history of the transmission at least the last few basic services like pan drop and filter and fluid replacement. Also any other transmission concerns over the miles or years?

That DTC leads me to believe it is lack of service related ????

 

I got it for free from a friend who was abandoning it because it needed work. (Not related to tranny) so I fixed what was wrong it and in the process I went over the suspension the brakes, the steering, all lube points, everything. I did check the gear oil in the differential and changed the transmission fluid and the filter. It's given me 5 solid years. I just don't want to junk it. The thing is, is there are issues I can't figure out that may have something to do with it. Like the ignition. I can't get my key out without disengaging the power to the ignition. I have replaced the switch. It leads me to think if it doesn't know I'm in park it won't release the key and if it doesn't know I'm in park it won't allow it to turn over. And at one point I had to push that hidden release so you can move the shifter out of park but that out of nowhere started working again when I would push the brake pedal. I know there is a ton of small issues and anyone reading this would say just rid yourself of the burden but this is my daily driver. I don't have to worry about someone hitting it opening their door. Or scratching it. The engine is still strong I'm just trying to use process of elimination with all the simple stuff. I just want to make sure all the little inexpensive simple things have be eliminated before I junk it if I have to remove the transmission forget it. I just don't have the time. Or experience for kind if repair. All of the key, ignition and column shifting issues lead me back to problem with the transmission. I was thinking it may of had something to do with the transmission range sensor or something.. The PCM receiving the wrong information due to faulty switches or sensors.Thanks again and I really do appreciate the response.

 

Ok I have the transmission range sensor issue fixed. Now I can give you a more accurate explanation of what is going on. when I start it it goes Into reverse and drive and I can move the car. It seems the hotter it gets is when it starts slipping out of gear. If it is at running temperature And I put it in reverse and leave it there I can feel it trying to grab the gear but can't do it. If I turn the engine off then restart it, it will go into gear and I can drive it as long as I don't hit the gas too hard because once it slips out I have to stop turn off the engine then restart it again. And I DO NOT have the overdrive gear even though the O/D light is not blinking and it is making a whining type of sound as I drive. So I can spend $100 and replace the fluid and filter, or, what do you think? Is that worth a shot, or is it time to bury old girl?

 

Sounds like time for a reman. trans. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think these vehicles have an internal filter that cannot be changed. Draining the fluid is only a fraction of the entire fluid as well because of the design and requires a dealer-style "flush". That $100 might be better spent for a diagnostic at a transmission shop or for money down on that new trans. Let us know how it goes

 

Not exactly the best advise. A shop unless it is a specialized transmission service will ask the same questions I did. And if they are a quality shop would or should at least tell the OP I’d DIY capable to at least drop the pan and look. As for complete fluid replacement no shop in their right mind would or should recommend that service without dropping the pan first for a visual inspect on what we (meaning service experienced) know what we are going to see.
As for getting a rebuilt over a low mileage with a warranty replacement transmission that would at least be something to cover to know and add to the decision equation.

Never ever herd of a dealer style flush… lol. It simply a fluid service replacement using a specialized transmission service equipment and very few Dealerships on any platform have and offer the correct service. Especially very few Mazda dealerships. For them the investment and return is not worth it.

Our new one replacement for the very old unit cost almost 4 grand and looking at the books it will take about 2 + plus year before it produces 45%GP offering the service.

 

based on all information, the fluid is full of the friction disc material. When the transmission is cold the material is pumped through the transmission and acts as the only way the transmission disc can get traction for the output shaft movement. As the transmission gets hotter the material becomes more fluid and losses it ability to act as a resistance on the drum assembly . This is similar to a manual transmission clutch disc that is worn out and can’t hold the pressure plate on the flywheel and your clutch just slips.

I am going to guess that your transmission had a good life….it may be time to replace it

 

To set a few things clear before more questions are brought up.

So, looking at ALLDATA this morning and contacting a good friend that owner well established transmission shop he conformed a couple of things. The first is if the transmission is in fact that many miles and no record of at least 1-3 full fluid replacement the transmission is more than likely bad. He also confirmed that these have an internal filter then are not easily serviceable and require a removal from the engine and chassis. He did state however that the service they normally do on them is a complete Transmission evaluation that include running the transmission and measure fluid pressure. After determining the state of health of the transmission they will then and only then replace the complete fluid using a specialized Transmission service machine similar the one we use in our shop designed for this service. After the completion they will install an inline transmission filter so that futured fluid service and filter replacement can be done. But.... they decline any service on any of these transmissi0on that have over close to and defiantly over 200k miles because the probability of internal issues and problem along with general reliability declines quickly and doing any internal servicing generally will have a negative effect.

 

Thanks for all of your input and info. I have to think about it. Its not worth all that time and money.

 

Ya sorry to say you may be correct. Unless you can do all the work and find good parts a good used transmissions then maybe??