which weight of gear oil for manual trans
#1
which weight of gear oil for manual trans
I just got a used 1997 protege
I want to change out all of the fluids
is there anything special about the fluids and weights in general (aluminum anti-freeze I assume)
what weight of gear oil is recommended?
thanks in advance
brant
I want to change out all of the fluids
is there anything special about the fluids and weights in general (aluminum anti-freeze I assume)
what weight of gear oil is recommended?
thanks in advance
brant
#3
good question...
colorado
so 0degree's F to 110 degree's F
I'm really just needing to know if its motor oil (like an old honda I had) or gear oil like I assume...
so probably 75-90 is my guess
another question, I think I know the answer but will ask anyways:
do these motors have hydraulic lifters?
not requiring the zinc of old motors?
colorado
so 0degree's F to 110 degree's F
I'm really just needing to know if its motor oil (like an old honda I had) or gear oil like I assume...
so probably 75-90 is my guess
another question, I think I know the answer but will ask anyways:
do these motors have hydraulic lifters?
not requiring the zinc of old motors?
#4
good question...
colorado
so 0degree's F to 110 degree's F
I'm really just needing to know if its motor oil (like an old honda I had) or gear oil like I assume...
so probably 75-90 is my guess
another question, I think I know the answer but will ask anyways:
do these motors have hydraulic lifters?
not requiring the zinc of old motors?
colorado
so 0degree's F to 110 degree's F
I'm really just needing to know if its motor oil (like an old honda I had) or gear oil like I assume...
so probably 75-90 is my guess
another question, I think I know the answer but will ask anyways:
do these motors have hydraulic lifters?
not requiring the zinc of old motors?
#5
The manuals typically don't need a fluid change.
The lifters are cups with shims, not hydraulic. I still have to measure mine.
You should buy a copy of the Haynes manual if you do your own maintenance.
Don't add extra zinc to the oil. Learn about engine lubrication at the Motor Oil University here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
I assume you have the 1.5L engine. Could you add your car's data to the signature?
The lifters are cups with shims, not hydraulic. I still have to measure mine.
You should buy a copy of the Haynes manual if you do your own maintenance.
Don't add extra zinc to the oil. Learn about engine lubrication at the Motor Oil University here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
I assume you have the 1.5L engine. Could you add your car's data to the signature?
Last edited by tanprotege; 04-24-2013 at 04:58 PM.
#6
I think I fixed my signature
I guess I'll see when I post this
thanks again everyone
it is a 1997 1.5 with a manual transmission
I've got a Haynes manual on order, it just hasn't arrived yet.
and I didn't see the transmission oil wt given in the factory manual.
I want to go through all of the service, fluids, filters, timing belt, water pump, etc before putting this car back on the road
just gathering fluids until the weekend, and want to make sure I get the correct ones.
and I should correct my aluminum antifreeze statement, to: antifreeze safe for aluminum.
I guess I'll see when I post this
thanks again everyone
it is a 1997 1.5 with a manual transmission
I've got a Haynes manual on order, it just hasn't arrived yet.
and I didn't see the transmission oil wt given in the factory manual.
I want to go through all of the service, fluids, filters, timing belt, water pump, etc before putting this car back on the road
just gathering fluids until the weekend, and want to make sure I get the correct ones.
and I should correct my aluminum antifreeze statement, to: antifreeze safe for aluminum.
#7
I think I fixed my signature
I guess I'll see when I post this
thanks again everyone
it is a 1997 1.5 with a manual transmission
I've got a Haynes manual on order, it just hasn't arrived yet.
and I didn't see the transmission oil wt given in the factory manual.
I want to go through all of the service, fluids, filters, timing belt, water pump, etc before putting this car back on the road
just gathering fluids until the weekend, and want to make sure I get the correct ones.
and I should correct my aluminum antifreeze statement, to: antifreeze safe for aluminum.
I guess I'll see when I post this
thanks again everyone
it is a 1997 1.5 with a manual transmission
I've got a Haynes manual on order, it just hasn't arrived yet.
and I didn't see the transmission oil wt given in the factory manual.
I want to go through all of the service, fluids, filters, timing belt, water pump, etc before putting this car back on the road
just gathering fluids until the weekend, and want to make sure I get the correct ones.
and I should correct my aluminum antifreeze statement, to: antifreeze safe for aluminum.
#8
I was wrong in an earlier reply:
Haynes says: API GL-5, SAE 75W-90 gear oil, every 30000miles or 24 months.
My gear oilis way way waaayyy overdue. My trouble is I can't get the fill plug unbolted. It does not budge and it will round out or brake.
Maybe I try icing it with a freeze spray and treating it with the best penetrating oil known to mankind: 50% transmission fluid /50% acetone.
I updated the The Unofficial User’s Guide to the ’95 to ’98 Mazda Protégé accordingly.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...da+Prot%E9g%E9
Haynes says: API GL-5, SAE 75W-90 gear oil, every 30000miles or 24 months.
My gear oilis way way waaayyy overdue. My trouble is I can't get the fill plug unbolted. It does not budge and it will round out or brake.
Maybe I try icing it with a freeze spray and treating it with the best penetrating oil known to mankind: 50% transmission fluid /50% acetone.
I updated the The Unofficial User’s Guide to the ’95 to ’98 Mazda Protégé accordingly.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...da+Prot%E9g%E9
Last edited by tanprotege; 04-25-2013 at 07:39 AM.
#9
transmission plugs (on other cars at least) are almost always NPT, or "pipe thread"
that means that they will start turning easier once they break their bond and you have less chance of stripping.
I have Always been successful on other cars using MAP gas or even a small propane bottle to heat the rust and oxidation that is holding it tight.
try that.
that means that they will start turning easier once they break their bond and you have less chance of stripping.
I have Always been successful on other cars using MAP gas or even a small propane bottle to heat the rust and oxidation that is holding it tight.
try that.
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