Re ksteele's post: Here's some related stuff which will help clear up a few of the on-again-off-again problems related to unstable faults; go to the Protege forum and look for the 04-13-2009, 10:30 AM post by Adam S, entitled
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege, 1.8L with 5 speed manual transmission @ 190,000 kms.
The treatment protocol is dirt cheap and quite effective. Beyond this, I saw some erratic idling stuff which was traced to the throttle linkage attachment being fouled/ loose where it coupled to the throttle body too.

 

Hi there Have you checked to see if the INLET MANIFOLD or INLET MANIFOLD GASKET are cracked or sucking in air? spray some carb cleaner around the manifold area see if this helps let me know what you find .

 

I have tried to go to the links on the bottom of this page and cannot get there from here? can you help? thanks Rick

 

Thanks for the following info:

"There is a short vacuum hose connected to the boost sensor. the other end of this hose goes to the solenoid valve right next to it. There is also another vacuum hose on the solenoid that is attached to a port on the intake manifold. With engine running at idle. Pull the vacuum line from the manifold off at the solenoid and make sure that you have good strong intake vacuum. If this is confirmed then reconnect the vacuum hose and remove the other one at the solenoid. Should not have any vacuum at the exposed solenoid port. Now disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid and apply battery voltage and ground to the two solenoid connector pins. Vacuum should now be felt at the exposed port. The problem is usually a clogged vacuum port at the intake manifold due to the fact that it is so close to the EGR valve and all of the dirty exhaust gas collect in that area."

A clogged vacuum port at the intake manifold was exactly what my problem was. After taking a trip where for the last 400 miles the front end (motor) would "vibrate" (knock) when trying to accelerate from around 60mph, I came home and read out the two error codes above and thought I was going to have an expensive repair job. Then I ran across this piece of advice and thought, hey, we'll try this first. A vaccumm gauge, a small drill bit (to clear the clogged vacuum port by hand) and 5 minutes later the problem was solved.

Wish we were always that lucky!

P.S. I test drove the car and checked for error codes. There were none...it took care of both.

 

I tried this trick to clean my clogged vacuum port on my intake manifold going to my EGR valve and when I put my drill bit in to clean the clogged port I could feel the bit hitting something but it was not a clog or gunk that I was hitting as I pushed my drill in further to clean the vacuum port. Any idea what I was hitting? I am trying to resolve the P1195 code I am getting on my 95 Millenia. I checked the vacuum tubes to my EGR solenoid and the tubes were clear and I checked the voltage to my sensors. Any other ideas to help clear my P1195 code?

 

Q: I tried this trick to clean my clogged vacuum port on my intake manifold going to my EGR valve and when I put my drill bit in to clean the clogged port I could feel the bit hitting something but it was not a clog or gunk that I was hitting as I pushed my drill in further to clean the vacuum port. Any idea what I was hitting? I am trying to resolve the P1195 code I am getting on my 95 Millenia. I checked the vacuum tubes to my EGR solenoid and the tubes were clear and I checked the voltage to my sensors. Any other ideas to help clear my P1195 code?

When I cleaned my vacuum port with a small drill bit it went in 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch before it "hit" something. I then rotated the drill bit with my fingers and pressed at the same time until the drill bit popped through. I thought maybe I had messed something up inside, but its running fine. I probably inserted the drill no more than one and a half inches to clear the port. If you use a small (1/16") drill bit I don't see how you could hurt anything.

No, I don't have any other ideas at this point. I was just sharing my experience.

 

the boost sensor solenoid is a BARO/MAP type sensor. It uses manifold absolute pressure to operate. P1195 could be set if: the boost sensor is faulty, there is a boost sensor vac port leak, EGR leak, intake manifold leak, EGR solenoid fault; mostly the issue is a boost sensor fault/leak. Check every single vac line/port for obstructions and leaks.
To me, it sounds like you have a vac leak, especially if the RPM is racing or surging at idle. Check all manifold gaskets for leaks. It is probably right there in front of you, you also may have picked up a faulty boost sensor from the J-yard. Get a new one so you can rule it out 100%!

 

the inspector was referring to readiness monitors. Here is what to do: After a cold soak, start up vehicle and let idle to warm up temp. (15-20 min) accel at 1/2 throttle until 40mph. maintain 40mph for 5 min. accel at 2/3 throttle to 65mph. hold at 65 for 3 min. coast with out braking to 30mph maintain 30mph for 20 min. accel at 1/4 throttle to 50mph. Hold for 4-5 minutes. coast to 35mph. drive home at 30-45mph. pull over shut off vehicle. allow to cold soak for 3-4 hours. Then repeat.
This a drive cycle. On second cycle drive to inspection station to for inspection. Completing a drive cycle should "wake-up" your PCM Monitors.
Good Luck.