I want to install a OEM Tachometer cluster in my 2000 DX, I have a 1999/2000 LX parts car. Both cars are 1.6- 5 speed cars. The cluster in the LX has 3 more wires than the DX cluster. I have had no luck finding wiring diagrams for the tachometer. Any help would be appreciated.

 

How ironic I was asking the same question over on the Protege site forum.

I have a 2000 DX and just bought a LX Tach cluster yesterday. Stupid me I tried to transfer the speedometer thinking the mileage would transfer too. Instead I broke it. Went back and bought another this morning. The two clusters were $18 each ($36) and the return trip and admission to U-Pull Parts was another $10. So this is starting to add up.

Unfortunately this is what I found (cut/paste from the Protege site):

When I applied power I was thrilled to find the "new" odometer read only 2k more that my old cluster (95k vs 97k). That excitement was quickly quenched when upon starting the car the Tach did not function - and worst yet it brought up a check engine code!!! The code was for the engine temperature. And, when I reinstalled the old cluster it didn't go away!!! Man, when I put a "Tach" cluster in my '91, 323 it just "worked." Thankfully I had a scanner and erased the code and all "seems" good (we will see).

So, it seems the tach at the least needs to be wired (on a DX), but the engine code being thrown really bothers me.

If you find out anymore please post back or email me through the forum because I too want to know. BTW, my 2000, 1.6, 5 speed is a 49 state car (residing in California).

Regards, Tom

 

DandyM,

I did some searching and found out that the 2000 Protege 1.6 DX and the 1.8 ES use the same temperature sender. I was not paying attention to the engine in the car when I pulled the instrument cluster. I was thinking the sender might be different, but at least according to the Napa Auto web site it is not. So, I'm baffled as to why I got a temperature "Check Engine Code" when I put the LX "Tach" instrument cluster in my DX.

Anyway, I hope you/I get an answer. Have you plugged in the "Tach" cluster? Did you get the check engine light like I did? I'd think the tach not working might just be wiring, but the the "Check Engine Code" for the temperature concerns me - strange.

Regards, Tom (Wittsend)

 

Wittend, I did swap the lx cluster into my dx and everything works fine except the tach does not work. I have had a check engine light for a bad catalytic converter, so I haven't checked for other codes,(I guess I should do that). I know 3 wires are missing from the left hand connector in the dx, one of them the purple/white wire is a tach signal wire, the gray/red wire? and the orange w/two silver bands? My worst case scenario would be to have to disassemble the parts car to trace the wires. Still looking for a wiring diagram.
Working graveyards, little time to dig for info, Dave (dandym)

 

To Wittsend,
The only DTC in my car is a PO420, low cat efficiency (needs a new catalytic converter), had this issue for over a year. more later, DandyM. P.S. The scanner picks up a tack signal through the diagnostic connector so this cluster swap must be possible. I think the gray and orange wires may be power and ground, but I have no information to verify this.

 

Dave,
Thanks for the reply.

I have a Hayne's 323/Protege 1990-2000 manual, but it is primarily for earlier cars with '99-'00 information noted as changes. The schematic vaguely states "Typical 1995-up" and the tach isn't even listed with a wire color. It just shows as a loop in/out of the micro processor.

Glad to hear that you don't seem to have the code for the water temp.. I did notice that my gauge didn't move when I put the new cluster in (car was at least "warm"). Maybe there is a wire issue??? I should have noted the code, but frankly when it appeared I grabbed my scanner because I wanted it - GONE!

As to the tach power/ground, I would think that would be wired from a common source with everything else that powers the cluster. Likely the only signal that is missing is the pulse (assumed a single wire). My guess one of the three wires you noted is the tach, but the other two???

Anyway, hopefully we can both sort this out and get everything functioning - less any codes.

Regards, Tom

 

I think some pics may help to understand better. Why don't you upload some pictures?

 

Disclaimer, "Do at your own risk." This was connecting a Protege 2003 Mazdaspeed Speedo/Cluster to a 2000 DX.
Even though I too asked to this question a number of years back, I have finally found an almost complete answer to the dilemma. First, there must be some kind of issue with using a 1999 cluster in a 2000 car. Both '99 clusters I mentioned in my first post (post #2) brought up a check engine light immediately (and no tach function) relating to a temperature sensor. So, recommendation #1, don't use a '99 cluster.

Recently I acquired a third cluster, only this time it was 2003 Mazdaspeed cluster. Upon installation I still had no tach, but everything functioned except the high beam indicator. I did some searching around and found this site http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/M...g%20Manual.pdf that had a schematic for a 2002 Protege. Comparing the connector on the 2000 Protege DX it was obvious there was no wiring for the tach signal. If you dig through the schematic (or it is commonly mentioned on the internet) the Diagnostic port in the engine compartment has the tach signal. So, getting the tach functional is simply a matter of connecting the two points. I should also mention that people often refer to a "Purple / White" wire. In the manual it is referred to as a Violet / White wire.

In the schematic listed above there are three pages I found very helpful. They are: PDF page 24 (actual page number on manual is 20), PDF page 32 (actual page number on the manual is 28) and PDF page 64 (actual page number in the manual is 60).

On the upper right side of PDF page 24 you will see the circled number 21 and a wire labeled V/W (Violet / White) going to pin number 48 on the PCM. This is the origin of the tach signal.

Now go to PDF page 32. You will see the circled number 21 going to the Speedo/Cluster AND... it is also linked to the "Data Link Connector" - which is actual called the "Diagnostic" port under the hood. You will also see that the color of the wire remains Violet / White. So, what one needs to understand is that the Violet / White wire in the DX only runs to the Diagnostic port (circled number 22) and not the Speedo/Cluster (circled number 21). However, simply running a wire from the Diagnostic port to the Speedo/Cluster solves the problem.

While you are on PDF page 32 look in the lower left hand of the page. The connectors at the Speedo/Cluster are listed there. They are all three listed as C-01 but the connector of interest is the bottom one with 10 connection points. On the lower right side of the connector you will see the V/M (Violet / White) wire connection point. That is where you want to add a wire (and metal clip - more on this later). Note the orientation of the connector hold down clip to ensure the wire is placed correctly. Also note that on the Speedo/Cluster itself, this particular connector is the second one counting from the left.

Now, go to PDF page 64. You will see the Diagnostic port. Find the circled number 22 (V/M (Violet / White) and note the location. This is where you will connect the other end of the wire. This will now connect the Diagnostic port tach signal to the tach input of the Speedo/Cluster. You should now have a functional tach in a DX car.

A few notes on the actual connection itself. Unless you cut wires and took the whole connector when you got the Speedo/Cluster you will be without the small metal clip needed to effectively connect the wire. The larger plastic connector does not contain "spare" metal clips. What I found to work sufficiently was to carefully remove a metal clip from a common computer "audio card to motherboard" cable. If you don't have one, they can be bought cheaply. Solder the wire to the clip and carefully feed it into the appropriate spot on the plastic connector. Note the orientation in regards to the wider (barely noticeable) side of the metal clip and the left/right orientation needed in the plastic connector. Also, looking through the front there is a plastic "tang" inside the connector. Make sure that the metal clip will "catch" the tang. It is possible to put the metal clip in 180 degrees out. This will result in the metal clip probably sliding out of the connector upon installation and being mis-aligned to slid over the pin on the Speedo/Cluster. It just takes some time and commonsense to get it right. I found a stiff pin and visual magnification helped get the metal clip installed properly.
I found it easier to do the Speedo/Cluster side first, then run the wire through a rubber connector in the firewall. I'll leave it to yourself to best accomplish this. At the Diagnostic port the connection is female. So, just a thin blade of metal is all that is needed. I'm guessing some will just shove the wire in. It is your choice. Hammering a short piece of a paper clip (to flatten it) and soldering the wire to it would do. Insert the wire into the Diagnostic port as illustrated on PDF page 64. Also note I used a blue wire of about 18 gauge. I could not find a Violet / White wire in my parts bin. But, anyway, the color is not important. On the outer end (street side) of the Diagnostic port cover there is a notch that allows the wire to run out without pinching when the cover closes.


I'm not sure why I can't get the high beam indicator to light. The bulb is good. if I can't find a wire movement that corrects this, I'll just run a wire from the high beam line to a small light I'll affixed to the black bezel and call it done. Besides, I rarely use high beams and can probably tell when they are on simply by how the road lights.

Pictures: #1 It is the second connector from the left and I have added the blue wire. #2 The Diagnostic port, I marked the correct connection point with a "T", note the side the wire is run out of. #3 The audio cable I got the needed metal clip from, the clip is rather fragile, but if you have the cable you get 6 tries. #4 The final results.

 

Hi Wittsend, I read your post on the Protge website, great thread.

I want to do the same. I have a 1999 323 LX BJ SOHC 1.3 Lt model.

The Tachometer cluster can be picked up very cheaply for around €20.
The instructions are very good so no issue with that and I have all the manuals, haynes and electrical drawings etc. I've previously removed the Dash cluster before to fix the airbag lights (the previous owner had removed them because there was a fault with the passenger seat airbag on signal).

So my current mileage is at approx 196000miles.
Id like to hold onto the mileage. I got the car at 97000miles a good few years ago and its like a badge of honour the more mileage you have on an old car.

Do you know if there is any way of correcting the mileage on a second hand unit? A unit I'm looking to buy says it has about 100,000miles. Is there any way of increasing it other than driving 96,000miles!!

Cheers
Bob