Hi and good evening.

I have some problems with my emission i can't get my car vehicle inspection done.

My emissions are
Idle speed:
CO: 1,98
CO COR: 1.88
HC: 176
CO2: 13.8
O2: 0.04
Lambda 0.939
RPM 750

@2250
CO: 1,52
CO COR: 1.46
HC: 137
CO2: 14.1
O2: 0.04
Lambda 0.939

I allrady changed lambda(heated oxygen censor), cleaned maf, cleaned tps and switch what regonizes when gas is not pressed, air filter and oil filter changed also spark plugs. all what happened was that my idle speed is now petter put emissions are not fixed.

Car is Mazda Familia 1,5 1995 with Z5 engine

 

Janipaa: i don't know how to interpret the data. So let me make a guess or two.

Replace the ignition wires as well.
Take out the EGR valve and clean it and clean the EGR passages. There is an EGR boost sensor on the passenger side of the firewall. Locate it and follow the vacuum hose down to the backside of the intake manifold. Pull the hose off there and with a strong wire about 3" long push into the nipple. Very often there is a blockage. Push through.
Look for vacuum leaks, in particular on the air intake hose. You should remove it and bend it to see if there are cracks.
Also consider cleaning the throttle body.
Clean or replace the PCV valve.
Is there a CEL on? what is the code?

 

Ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor are also changed last summer.
What comes to emission the tech. guy told me that he thinks that it miss fires that's why my HC is over 100 (max 100)

Thanks a lot about these tips i will go today to check them out and i will report back.

 

HC is Hydrocarbon. That makes sense. We have unburned fuel coming out the tail pipe.

The things I mentioned earlier should be checked in any case.
I would also check if the fuel pressure regulator is o.k. When the membrane develops a crack fuel will enter the intake manifold through the vacuum tube. Take that tube off and smell for fuel odor (that's not a healthy habit though).
The fuel injectors might be a bit sticky.

I think I would give ScottyKilmer's catalytic converter cleaning method a try: With the tank at 1/2 add 1 gal of Lacquer Thinner (NOT PAINT THINNER) to the tank and drive for about 100 miles, then fill up. The lacquer thinner (mostly acetone) will clean the whole fuel system including the injectors, the O2 sensors and the catalytic converters all while you enjoy a ride.

Because these cars are so fuel efficient you can go down to 1/4 tank and add 1/2 gallon of lacquer thinner and drive 100 miles. That way you can do a second car with the remaining lacquer thinner.

If you do this I would be really interested what the new readings look like. That would be the first before and after reading to proof how effective the method is.
I have done this thing with 3 of our cars. All three, in particular the '98 Protege ran much better after the procedure.

 

Hello again.
I just tested my TPS and looks like it's giving 5v only out no matter is throttle closed or open i will go to get new one today from yank yard. Now also water temp sensor is changed and noticed that now my cooling fan is working. Vacuum leaks also now checked with flammable liquid. After i change the tps i will go check my emissions again lets hope the best

I also uploaded video file to here: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...hint=folder%2c

What you can say about this video?
the engine sound is not good and you can hear strange noise from near air filter and i think the fuel pressure regulator is broken? or what you think?

 

..And the codes what it gives is only code 15 with using LED light one long and 5 short flashes

 

Good job with the ECT sensor.
I cannot get a good sound from the video. I noticed you are from the land of Mika Hakinnen?

15 is the oxygen sensor or its external circuit. Make sure the cables are good. You can also test an oxygen sensor using a voltmeter and a torch. Google for testing oxygen sensor.

This list is from a Mazda MX6 (Ford Probe) you do not have VRIS in your car:

02- crankshaft position (ckp) sensor or circuit
03- camshaft position (cmp) sensor or circuit
04- camshaft/crankshaft position sensor or circuit
05- knock sensor
08- Mass Airflow (maf) sensor or circuit
09- coolant temperature sensor or circuit
10- Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
11- Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor or circuit
12- Throttle Position sensor (TPS) or circuit
14- Barometric Pressure Sensor
15- Oxygen sensor or circuit
16- EGR valve position sensor or circuit
17- Oxygen sensor (check the fuel and ignition system performance)
23- Rear 02 sensor inactivation error
24- Rear 02 sensor inversion error
25- Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid or circuit
26- Solenoid valve(purge control) or circuit
28- EGR vaccum solenoid
29- EGR solenoid vent or circuit
34- Idle Air Control(IAC) valve or circuit
41- VRIS #1 solenoid
46- VRIS #2 solenoid
67- Cooling fan relay or circuit
69- ECTF sensor

111- System pass
112,113- Intake Air Temperature(IAT) sensor or circuit
116,117,118- Engine Coolant Temperature(ECT) sensor or circuit
121,122,123- Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) or circuit
157,158,159- Mass Air Flow(MAF) sensor or circuit
172,173,179,181- Heated oxygen sensor(H02S) or circuit
211,212,213- Ignition system
214,244- Camshaft position(CMP) sensor or circuit
327,332,337- EGR function sensor or circuit
411,412- Idle Air Control(IAC) valve or circuit
452- Vehicle Speed Sensor(VSS) or circuit
511,512,513- PCM
519,521- Power Steering Pressure(PSP) switch or circuit
522- Transmission range sensor or circuit
536- Brake On/Off (BOO) switch or circuit
538- Dynamic response test
539- a/c sensor or circuit
554- Pressure regulator solenoid valve or circuit
559- a/c relay or circuit
563- cooling fan relay(high speed) or circuit
564- cooling fan relay(low speed) or circuit
565- Purge control solenoid valve or circuit
571- EGR solenoid valve(vent) or circuit
572- EGR solenoid valve(vaccum) or circuit
998- PCM

 

Oxygen censor is already changed and i checked wirings already maybe new sensor was broken? i will test it with voltmeter.

But now i have more problems with my car my idle speed is now about 1100rpm after i changed TPS and also idle air valve. I tried with new and old tps and the idle rpm was 1100. and the iac is making noise when ignition is ON the new and old iac started to keep this noise and that is not normally. (Still when power is switced on i can hear that solenoid works and it opens)

More and more problems my car has served me last 3 years and 130k km with no problems but now there is too much

 

see if you can adjust the throttle cable. in old cars, an oil change before inspection helps to lower the HC.

 

Oils are changed 2 months ago and i checked the cable its good and its allows to throttle fully close.

More information about idle speed: At cold engine idle speed is 1500-2000rpm and when its warm idle speed goes to 1100rpm but if i start engine again idle speed is 700-800 and if i press gas so that rpm rises over 2000rpm idle speed is again 1100rpm and at some point it can drop to 700-800 if i allow it to idle, but not allways