Quick update:
After two days without the engine light on, it appeared once again. So, Tanprotege, I disconnect the vacuum hose which goes from the EGR boost sensor solenoid valve and leads into the bottom of the EGR valve - you know by the two nut bolts on the lower
part of the EGR Valve. Anyway, I blow into the hose and I hear a hissing sound. I take
off the hose and notice a small hole in the vacuum hose. I replace the vacuum hose and
I know the engine light while stay off indefinitely. Again, you were right on with resolving my issue. Thanks again.

PS- I had an interview. I was offered a job but the company rescinded the offer because
management change its direction and decided to fill the job from within. Nevertheless, I
believe I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I know a position is on the horizon.
Again, thanks for your kind words. Peace

 

Oops, I mean "I know the engine light will stay off indefinitely." The engine light has permanently disappeared. I guess, the vacuum hose was so close to the engine that a small hole melted into it.

 

Excellent!

That's why I recommend to replace all vacuum lines in a car this old. It eliminates a lot of small causes that can have big effects. We have another 11 year old car and the rubber parts start deteriorating as well.

On our protege the CEL came on again and I quickly pushed a wire into the nipple at the intake manifold. I reset my light by disconnecting the battery and stepping on the brake. The brake lights drain the voltage from the memories. I don't even know what code it was.

I deal with a dragging rear brake and research indicates that another rubber part could be the cause. The brake hose may have deteriorated inside. While the pedal pressure is enough to make the brakes work, the return springs are not enough to push the fluid back when the pedal is released. Therefoer the brake drags.

Be smart and upbeat, stay connected socially! You will get a job!

 

Another quickupdate;

The check engine light continues to remain off thanks to the wonderful suggestions by Tanprotege. My vehicle has now clocked over 203,100
miles and counting.

I am now off to check this website for suggestions on how to stop the
squeaking noise I hear near my belt whenever the temperature is cold
and damp.

Again, Tanprotege thanks for all your advice. Oh by the way, I found
a new job.

 

I am glad to hear the good news about your new job and your old car!

Way to go, Denny!

Somewhere I read the belts need to be of good quality and properly tensioned, and the pulleys need to be properly aligned. Don't forget that the pulleys wear and yours have aged gracefully.

Our protege gives us the "warm up catalytic performance" CEL. Since everything else seems working o.k. I think it is either the converter itself or the downstream O2 sensor. I probably won't fix it anytime soon.

 

Thanks, Tanprotege. Good news is always the best news. I think you are right, the problem with the squeaking my be the pulley because I know my water pump is fine.
I replaced it two years ago. So, I have been slowly reading about the pulley and the bearings. Any suggestions with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Hope all works out with your catalytic converter, they are so expensive.

Hey Tanprotege, I wish only the best for you and your family during this
holiday season. Again, thanks for your insight and wisdom. I appreciate it.
Peace.

 

Denny, I don't have any specific experience with squealing belts. You probably read the thread about the 96 Protege, squealing belts.....on this forum. I think they pretty much covered all aspects.
I am not going to do anything about the cat yet. Currently my son is using the car and he is not driving much. Besides it's getting cold here in the Midwest. It takes the fun out of tinkering.

Happy Holidays to you as well!

Tan