95 Protege 1.5 severe hesitation
#1
04-29-2008, 06:54 PM
95 Protege 1.5 severe hesitation
I need some major help. I'll start at the beginning.
Last November My idle was up arround 2000 RPM, Surging to 2500. I did some research and found out that the idle control valve could be plugged. I took it off and the water jacket was plugged. Cleaned it out and put it back together. The idle went back down to 800 RPM where it was supose to be. The car developed a severe hesitation during acceleration. At the same time I worked on the idle control valve, I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Thinking I might have put bad parts in I put the old ones back in one at a time. The car ran worse. The next thing that happened was a check engine light and codes indicating #2 cylinder misfire. Gas milage dropped from 33 to 26 MPG.Replaced the injectors and milage went back up. Still have severe hesitation, car shudders if you try to go up any small incline. Need to feather the gas to get the car to go, but it idles beautifully. Also cleaned a plugged EGR valve Vaccum line, and the MAF sensor. I cannot find any vaccum leaks any where, I sprayed carb cleaner arround all the lines and the engine never faultered. Got a new set of checkengine codes that are now calling out a #1 cylinder misfire. Seems tomissfire lessbetween 2200 and3000 RPM in 4th or 5th gear on the highway.
I know this is a lot of information but I figured I would give you as much info asI could. I"m out of ideas.
Kevin
Last November My idle was up arround 2000 RPM, Surging to 2500. I did some research and found out that the idle control valve could be plugged. I took it off and the water jacket was plugged. Cleaned it out and put it back together. The idle went back down to 800 RPM where it was supose to be. The car developed a severe hesitation during acceleration. At the same time I worked on the idle control valve, I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Thinking I might have put bad parts in I put the old ones back in one at a time. The car ran worse. The next thing that happened was a check engine light and codes indicating #2 cylinder misfire. Gas milage dropped from 33 to 26 MPG.Replaced the injectors and milage went back up. Still have severe hesitation, car shudders if you try to go up any small incline. Need to feather the gas to get the car to go, but it idles beautifully. Also cleaned a plugged EGR valve Vaccum line, and the MAF sensor. I cannot find any vaccum leaks any where, I sprayed carb cleaner arround all the lines and the engine never faultered. Got a new set of checkengine codes that are now calling out a #1 cylinder misfire. Seems tomissfire lessbetween 2200 and3000 RPM in 4th or 5th gear on the highway.
I know this is a lot of information but I figured I would give you as much info asI could. I"m out of ideas.
Kevin
#6
04-15-2009, 11:03 AM
Read the post by Adam S, entitled
"I have a 2000 Mazda Protege, 1.8L with 5 speed manual transmission @
190,000 kms."
The second part of the "treatment protocol" described deals with ignition related issues of the protege. (Canadian ones especially, because of all the winter road slush, salt, and crap thrown right into the vulnerable exposed ignition harness). I've even heard of cases where the problem was water nesting down in the plug wells !
Quote:
"Another common weirdo of the Protege is that bad ignition hickups can throw the ECU for a loop. Get yourself a spray can of contact cleaner (which is good for cleaning the MAF anyway), and remove the two connectors at the front of the coil packs. Give those connectors a really good cleaning with the spray, and clean the dirt off the coil packs while you wait for the contact cleaner to do its job.
While you're at it , disconnect the two connectors on the air filter/MAF assembly, (MAF and Air Temp.) and squirt them too. Then take the tube off the spray can and shoot a good shot down into the MAF itself too.
Now go back to the coils, spray them with WD40 and clean them up well, using an old toothbrush, rag or whatever.
Next, check the condition of your plug harness. If it's old, it will arc onto any metal it gets close to, so make sure all of the wires are 1/4" or so clear of metal and each other, and that the plastic spacers which slide onto the mounting tabs on the engine head, are clean and in good shape too.
Now put the four connectors back where they belong, but connect and disconnect them a few times to ensure good contact.
Start your engine, warm it up, note the idle speed ( should be 700 rpm. and stable to +/- 50 or so) , go for a run and (if you've got it) check out your cruise control."
Try this and post your findings on this thread.
A note of caution: the fuel not burned in the engine is going out the exhaust to be burned in the catalytic converter; this can eventually soot up the upstream O2 sensor and will overheat the catalytic converter and downstream O2 sensor, damaging them both, so don't delay getting this class of problem dealt with.
"I have a 2000 Mazda Protege, 1.8L with 5 speed manual transmission @
190,000 kms."
The second part of the "treatment protocol" described deals with ignition related issues of the protege. (Canadian ones especially, because of all the winter road slush, salt, and crap thrown right into the vulnerable exposed ignition harness). I've even heard of cases where the problem was water nesting down in the plug wells !
Quote:
"Another common weirdo of the Protege is that bad ignition hickups can throw the ECU for a loop. Get yourself a spray can of contact cleaner (which is good for cleaning the MAF anyway), and remove the two connectors at the front of the coil packs. Give those connectors a really good cleaning with the spray, and clean the dirt off the coil packs while you wait for the contact cleaner to do its job.
While you're at it , disconnect the two connectors on the air filter/MAF assembly, (MAF and Air Temp.) and squirt them too. Then take the tube off the spray can and shoot a good shot down into the MAF itself too.
Now go back to the coils, spray them with WD40 and clean them up well, using an old toothbrush, rag or whatever.
Next, check the condition of your plug harness. If it's old, it will arc onto any metal it gets close to, so make sure all of the wires are 1/4" or so clear of metal and each other, and that the plastic spacers which slide onto the mounting tabs on the engine head, are clean and in good shape too.
Now put the four connectors back where they belong, but connect and disconnect them a few times to ensure good contact.
Start your engine, warm it up, note the idle speed ( should be 700 rpm. and stable to +/- 50 or so) , go for a run and (if you've got it) check out your cruise control."
Try this and post your findings on this thread.
A note of caution: the fuel not burned in the engine is going out the exhaust to be burned in the catalytic converter; this can eventually soot up the upstream O2 sensor and will overheat the catalytic converter and downstream O2 sensor, damaging them both, so don't delay getting this class of problem dealt with.
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