I was just online looking up how much it costs for a camshaft position sensor and all i can find is a CRANKshaft position sensor. Are these the same sensors? There are two different ones listed in MAZDAPARTSCHEAP.COM one is called the crankshaft position sensor, protege, 1.8L, 2.0L, Upper for $134.05 and another one called crankshaft position sensor, Protege, 1.8L, 2.0L, Lower for $83.20. I assume that there are two different sensors - Upper and Lower.

Anyone have any insight?

 

The 1385 code would be the upper sensor on the valve cover. It is the cam position sensor and lower one by crank pulley is crank position sensor. Aftermarkets sometimes call the all crank position sensor. I thought the dealer had replaced this sensor and did not fix problem? And how could they expect you to tell them what to do? They are the ones who are supposed to be diagnosing no start!! Am no sure what other things to look at without being able to see myself. They have checked to make sure the timing belt has not slipped or broken haven't they? If the camshaft is not turning then the sensor would not be sending a signal. I disconnected cam sensor from car yesterday and cranked with no start, but did not get the coils to fire once and then quit as you described. Wish I could be of more help.

 

Thanks babyhuey. I was thinking about the timing chain while I was writing the last entry.
I'll talk to the dealer again and have them investigate. Why wouldn't they have thought about this. That blows my mind how a dealership can redirect issues like this. After they changed the sensor and it didn't fix the issue they measured the voltage coming from the sensor and noted it wasn't changing. I found that out today. That tells me the camshaft isn't rotating, which means the timing chain is kaput. That's where I would have started.

I think I'm going to have the car towed back home and get to work on it myself. If you have any other suggestions I'm all ears.

Thanks,
Steve

 

I spoke with the dealer service centre again this morning. They say that they checked the cam on engine crank and it's moving consistently, meaning the timing belt is not broken or slipping. I also clarified that the voltage from the cam position sensor is not being measured as constant, but that it is operating correctly, with all the voltage peaks and valleys.

Is it possible the timing chain slipped once and now is grabbing and rotating correctly but the timing is out? The sensor saw an issue when the jump occurred and sent an error code to the ecm. Now the timing is out and the fault from the ecm is to not fire the coil when the timing is out. Does anyone know if the ecm fault condition for bad timing is no coil firing?

 

Back on 8/30 you posted that the dealer told you the code was a p1385. Is this right? We thought p1345 before. I do not find any listing for a p1385. Would be very easy check just to R and R valve cover and check that cam and crank timing is correct. With all of the computers and electronics the simple mechanical is often overlooked. By the way you have a timing belt and not chain which is much more likely to have problems with skipping a tooth.

 

MY FIRST GUESS IS THE TIMING BELT,IF THATS NOT IT.....THE PCM, MY NEXT GUESS IS THE DISTRIBUTOR ASSY.