I have a 2000 Mazda Protege 1.8 L auto. After it has warmed up, it runs very rough when I come to a stop and has died several times on me. The check engine light was on at one point. I found a crack / vacuum leak in the air intake hose, that I patched with duct tape. I reset the light and it has not come back on. The car still runs horribly and I can not get it to pass state emissions test with too many not ready conditions (Catalytic Converter, ERG, and EVAP system) even after driving it 600 miles. Just ordered a new air intake hose.
Recently replaced plugs and wires about 1 1/2 months ago, that did not help at all.

Any ideas / suggestions??

Thanks

 

So you "shot the Sheriff but you didn't shoot the Deputy?" (Eric Clapton song) May be the coil pack is bad.
But there could be other reasons.
More vacuum leaks: check all the hoses and connection to the intake manifold. Make sure the nipple for the vacuum hose to the EGR Boost Sensor on the back of the intake manifold is open.
Clean the EGR system.
Check fuel pressure.
Check fuel injectors.
Clean the MAF sensor and the throttle body.

Report back once you have gone through the list.

 

I am having the same problem. my car is a 1.6L 5 speed. it runs fine until you get off idle, and then it wants to die. Last week i took it to the Mazda dealership, when i took it in at idle the RPM would rev up and then fall and almost cut off. But it would cut off every few minutes. But when i unhooked the purge solenoid valve the car runs great no issues at all! They looked over it and said it is running rich ( hence when i unhook the solenoid i made a vacuum leak which leaned out the AFR). They worked on my car for almost an hour. And they got it to idle but like i stated earlier, it still has issues. I wish i new what is causing it because it has to be something so simple, im wanting to turbo my car but i would rather have it running right befor i start that project. If you find out what the problem is please let me know! Thank you

 

You can try cleaning the IAC valve, and then the EGR valve.
The IAC solenoid has a plunger assembly that can get gummed up.
Use carb cleaner to clean it.
The EGR valve is a little harder to remove, but it can also be cleaned with a coat hanger and carb cleaner.

My car was stumbling, with the idle going up and down.
I started with the IAC valve, and worked up to the EGR valve.

I don't have pics , but you can look on EBAY to see what they look like.

If I remember correctly, they are both near the throttle body.