I have a code "4" on my 1994 Mazda MX-3 GS, I think I figured out the camshaft sensor, but I can't find the crankshaft sensor. I'm positing pictures and hoping someone will find it for me and point it out. You will see that the distributor is removed because I have been working on it.

Thanks in advance!

 

I can't figure it out from the pix. Isn't the Chilton's of any help?

When in doubt I google for pictures and I come up with stuff like this:
http://www.justanswer.com/car/1ar7g-...anks-fine.html


and this:

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t24106_ds553574

 

The camshaft position sensor is on the distributor itself and if bad, then the only fix is a new distributor. I have bought a used distributor and it tests out fine. The problem I have with Chilton's and the first link you gave are that the pictures are to much of a close up. Preferably, an entire view of the engine, when the sensor pointed out and then the closer picture for detail purposes would work best. On the second link the pic is of a 1.6L engine and that is probably a 6-cylinder. Still might be the same area and I'll have to look on my car.

As far as how I'm positing the questions here and the pictures go, I'm assuming that there are a few like I was when i started, whereas, I have the basic engine knowledge but I need to be walked through step by step for anything that is not basic. As far as a grade level would go, I'd say when I first got on here, I was equal to the 3rd grade; now I might be 7th grade level. I highly admire those like you tan that are post-graduate.

 

The crank position sensor is typically mounted near the harmonic balancer. You should see a tone wheel (wheel with squared teeth, one of them missing). And there should be a sensor pointing to it. Look it up how close the sensor should be to that tone wheel. Grim_reaper mentioned somewhere else that they give up eventually and he suggests replacing them if they are not too expensive.

I think you are doing a great job picking up new knowledge, and I enjoy helping out. I think the real masters here are grim_reaper and Juanky. They are professionals.

 

Ok, here's where I am. I'm going to include an old picture I sent before. It is the Distributor cover that has the 3-equal cracks in it. Turns out that is not normal (almost everyone thought it was since they were in thirds). I bought a used distributor and the cover on it didn't have the cracks (Advanced Auto Parts) pointed that out to me.

So I put the different distributor on the car with the good cover and new distributor cap. I had tested the camshaft sensor and it was good. The car now cranks really well but doesn't quite kick over, it is like it wants to but just doesn't catch. Not only did I test the #1 spark plug cable but I tested all 6, and they all got a spark! I have new spark plugs in the car that put in when I started this project all most a year ago.

Main fuse = Good
Spark wires = Good
Distributor = Good
camshaft sensor = Good
Spark Plug wires connected in correct order

I have not tested the crankshaft position sensor yet, but I do know where it is. It's hard for me to pull it apart and at this point I'm afraid of causing more damage.

This sounds really dumb......when I was trying to get to the crankshaft position sensor I had to removed the large hose that went to the radiator. This caused a large amount of radiator fluid to spell. I know Mazda's have all kinds of failsafe functions, so it is was low on antifreeze/coolent could that cause it not to start?

Also FYI, I know longer receive any CEL codes

 

Brad:
My hunch was right, the spark ran along the cracks.

At this point I am guessing that the spark timing is too far off. Without the engine running it is hard to get the timing right because you can't use the timing light. You could try a little guess work by retarding/ advancing the distributor just a little.

It is also possible that there is too much fuel present. Normal starting is turning the key without touching the accelerator. When flooded you press the pedal all the way down, keep it there and crank the engine. Try that once.

Give the starter plenty rest to cool down. You run the risk of killing your starter now.

 

ok, I'm getting majorly frustrated at this point.

Check out the two pictures here. One is of the timing marks. On the top belt there is a faded white mark, under that is the "guide" for finding TDC. I put a white dot on the belt trek there there is actually a notch. Do I have these correct? If I line up the white line on the top belt and line up the notch (white dot) on the bottom belt, is that correct?

Secondly, is a generic picture of the distributor rotor. One one end is all plastic and on the other side there is the copper looking material. Should I had the copper part pointing to the #1 connector on the distributor cap. What has been happening is that I have the marks set on the belts and have the copper area pointing at #1. Then it cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over. When I go back and check no the rotor has moved 180 degrees and is pointing towards where #6 would be. The notch on the belt trek and no longer lined up.

I'm hoping someone tells me that I did something wrong. I am working on this over and over again, but can't get the car to start. If everything is fine, then I really am out of ideas.

Thanks!

BB

 

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i now get a code 16, but the car finally RUNS!!

 

 

Ok, now a new problem (of course). I can't find anything on youtube about it so I'm hoping someone here will have a clue.

When doing the paperclip test I get a code "16" that I believe is the EGR Valve. Also, I can jump the cars battery and it runs fine, but when I remove the cables and try starting it on it's own it will not start. This isn't like the normal dead battery symptoms. When I insert the key and turn it to "go" all the warning lights come one and the dome light will be on. All of them are bright. Now when I turn to key to start, it has a huge loss of power. All warning lights and the dome light go dim and almost all the way off. I did leave it in that position for a short time yesterday and I heard some slow clicking and noises coming from the engine, as if it was trying to start.

If I remove the key and wait just a few minutes and then insert the key and only turn it as far as the "go" position, then once again all the lights will be bright.

So, there are two things, the loss of power and the EGR Value. Are these two connected in some way? What do you think the start problem is. I have a battery that is only 15 months old and have taken it to Advance Auto Parts and had them charge it and it held the charge.

Personally I'm thinking Starter Solenoid or Alternator?

Oh and one more thing. There seems to be a ground wire that is very loose. I haven't done anything to it and don't know how it got so loose. I've put a picture here so you can see what I'm referring to.