Sputtering
#11
07-06-2007, 09:55 PM
RE: Sputtering
The green relay is down at the PCM. It takes about 3to5 seconds to reset. The codes start with the mass air flow then things like fuel air, engine speed,idle speed something about man. control sensor and many more. I have them written down but they are not with me. I ordered a used MAF off of EBAY yesterday. Hopefully I will receive that soon and fix the problem. If that does not work I will try the PCM or relay. Any more ideas?
Thank You So Much
Thank You So Much
#12
07-07-2007, 04:55 PM
RE: Sputtering
The green relay down by the PCM should be the fuel pump relay. Should not be staying energized after shutting off the engine with key. Will have to take a closer look at the wiring diagram to see what could be causing it to remain energized for that length of time. Would not think that it should cause the problem as it should be energized anytime engine is running so that power is provided to the fuel pump unless it has perhaps acorroded internal contact that is maybe only allowing 6 volts to the fuel pump instead of the full 12 volts which would run pump at barely half capacity. Perhaps we should just bypass the relay altogether and see if it is causing the problem. A fuel pressure check would probably show up this being a fault as well but not many have a high pressure fuel gauge to hook up and see. If you ever get a chance to post up all of those code numbers it may point us in a better direction as well.
#14
07-07-2007, 06:36 PM
RE: Sputtering
That is quite an impressive list. Oddly enough they are about 50:50 split between engine computer codes and transmission computer codes. Lets sort them out as such..
Engine computer or PCM codes.
P0100 Mass air flow circuit malfunction
P0110 Intake air temp sensorcircuit malfunction ( within the MAF sensor )
P0141 Rear O2 heater circuit malfunction
P0420 Catalytic converter efficiency below limit
P1170 Front O2 sensor inversion (signal staying too rich )
Transmission or TCM codes
P0725 RPM circuit malfunction
P1566 Back up power supply to TCM below 5 volts
P1601 Communication line error between PCM and TCM
P1790 Throttle position input signal open or short
P1792 Baro pressure input circuit malfunction
Would be most curious to see what codes were to be reset if they were all cleared and then van driven for a day or so. The P0100 and P0110 could have been set by having MAF disconnected when trying to start van and so on with some of the other codes. One that is odd is the P1566. That is simply the power input for the TCM thru the 15 amp ROOM fuse. Make sure that fuse is ok and power is at it as well.
One commonality that I am seeing is a ground point on the engine TIM. Mass air flow is grounded thru a ground on the engine near the distributor. There are two of them right in the immediate area. Ground wires should be bolted directly to the engine with like a 10 mm bolt. The first is #4 ground and only has two wires to it. Black and Black w/orange stripe. The ground we are really concerned with should be right next to it with five wires to it. several black ones and also some that are black w/orange stripe and also red stripe. This one ground point is the one for the MAF as well as the single solitary ground point for the TCM. It also happens to be the primary ground point for the engine computer. Loose this ground and all kinds of havoc could be created. Would definitely be locating that gound, removing bolt, and cleaning. Might even run a separate wire under the bolt when reinstalling and running other end directly to negative battery post. Gee I hope it is as easy as that.
Engine computer or PCM codes.
P0100 Mass air flow circuit malfunction
P0110 Intake air temp sensorcircuit malfunction ( within the MAF sensor )
P0141 Rear O2 heater circuit malfunction
P0420 Catalytic converter efficiency below limit
P1170 Front O2 sensor inversion (signal staying too rich )
Transmission or TCM codes
P0725 RPM circuit malfunction
P1566 Back up power supply to TCM below 5 volts
P1601 Communication line error between PCM and TCM
P1790 Throttle position input signal open or short
P1792 Baro pressure input circuit malfunction
Would be most curious to see what codes were to be reset if they were all cleared and then van driven for a day or so. The P0100 and P0110 could have been set by having MAF disconnected when trying to start van and so on with some of the other codes. One that is odd is the P1566. That is simply the power input for the TCM thru the 15 amp ROOM fuse. Make sure that fuse is ok and power is at it as well.
One commonality that I am seeing is a ground point on the engine TIM. Mass air flow is grounded thru a ground on the engine near the distributor. There are two of them right in the immediate area. Ground wires should be bolted directly to the engine with like a 10 mm bolt. The first is #4 ground and only has two wires to it. Black and Black w/orange stripe. The ground we are really concerned with should be right next to it with five wires to it. several black ones and also some that are black w/orange stripe and also red stripe. This one ground point is the one for the MAF as well as the single solitary ground point for the TCM. It also happens to be the primary ground point for the engine computer. Loose this ground and all kinds of havoc could be created. Would definitely be locating that gound, removing bolt, and cleaning. Might even run a separate wire under the bolt when reinstalling and running other end directly to negative battery post. Gee I hope it is as easy as that.
#16
07-07-2007, 11:19 PM
RE: Sputtering
Please do. Am very interested to see what the outcome will be. Hope that is the problem but still have that little nagging doubt. Do not know yet why the fuel pump relay is refusing to click off when engine and key is shut off as it is a direct control from the PCM. Will keep at the wiring diagram to see if I can see anything else the could be a potential problem having to do with that extensive code list. The catalyst efficiency code is one that is probably going to be due to weak cat and O2 heater is most often just due to heater circuit within sensor failing although have seen this code being set due to simply low battery resulting in large drop in available voltage to system during engine cranking prior to startup. Keep us informed as to what you discover.
#17
07-30-2007, 09:51 PM
RE: Sputtering
ORIGINAL: babyhuey
Two things that have been creating some rough run problems on both of your vans. The PCV hose becomes deteriorated and ruptures creating a large vacuum leak. This one you can usually hear as there will usually be a hissing type noise present at roughly center back area of the engine. This hose was recalled for replacement some time back with a more rigid and oil resistant hose. Would not typically create the stutter on accel though.
You most probably have a ignition coil(s) that are failing or have already failed. Very common problem on the 02 and later MPV's. Unless your CEL comes on with a specific missfire code P0301-P0306 it will be extremely difficult to determine which one(s) are failing. The MPV is very bad about not setting missfire codes and am surprised that this has not become an issue with Mazda.
The dealer does have the capability of a missfire check with the latest Mazda diagnostic tool or IDS. It will actually monitor for missfire on a real time basis during a test drive to determine which cylinder is causing the missfire and stuttering you are feeling.
Two things that have been creating some rough run problems on both of your vans. The PCV hose becomes deteriorated and ruptures creating a large vacuum leak. This one you can usually hear as there will usually be a hissing type noise present at roughly center back area of the engine. This hose was recalled for replacement some time back with a more rigid and oil resistant hose. Would not typically create the stutter on accel though.
You most probably have a ignition coil(s) that are failing or have already failed. Very common problem on the 02 and later MPV's. Unless your CEL comes on with a specific missfire code P0301-P0306 it will be extremely difficult to determine which one(s) are failing. The MPV is very bad about not setting missfire codes and am surprised that this has not become an issue with Mazda.
The dealer does have the capability of a missfire check with the latest Mazda diagnostic tool or IDS. It will actually monitor for missfire on a real time basis during a test drive to determine which cylinder is causing the missfire and stuttering you are feeling.
a)can either of these be replaced without too much fanfare?
I know my way around my Mustang, but have not looked under my wife's car at all. That usually goes to the shop, but funds are low as I'm between jobs right now, so I'll as much as I can before going that route.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
#18
08-23-2007, 09:23 PM
RE: Sputtering
This is deja-vu.
My wife's van is showing the same symptoms -- for the FOURTH TIME. The first three times were under warranty -- faulty ignition coil. The dealer replaced it and it ran perfect for 8 - 12 months. Then it happened two more times, both under warranty.
Now it is out of warranty and (I'm assuming) the fourth coil is going. Its already dropped off at the dealer so there is no turning back now. But a buddy at work tells me this is something simple that I can do. Mind you, oil changes and the occasional tuneup (20 years ago!) is about where I am at mechanically.
Thanks for commenting -- flite.
My wife's van is showing the same symptoms -- for the FOURTH TIME. The first three times were under warranty -- faulty ignition coil. The dealer replaced it and it ran perfect for 8 - 12 months. Then it happened two more times, both under warranty.
Now it is out of warranty and (I'm assuming) the fourth coil is going. Its already dropped off at the dealer so there is no turning back now. But a buddy at work tells me this is something simple that I can do. Mind you, oil changes and the occasional tuneup (20 years ago!) is about where I am at mechanically.
Thanks for commenting -- flite.
#19
12-08-2007, 10:56 PM
RE: Sputtering
I have a 2001 Mazda MPV. I took it to Auto Zone and the code was P0300. I did find the PCV tube and the tube I believe was replaced. It it a hard plastic tube with a rubber "L" shaped boot on it. That boot has a big hole in it. It hisses really loud. Is that in direct connection with the P0300 code?? If it is, can I just replace the boot? And if so, is it a dealer part only? Will this get rid of my random missfire code or am I looking at a coil problem? My check engine light is not solid. It is flashing. Could you help me out???
#20
12-26-2007, 10:31 AM
RE: Sputtering
y)
I have a '97 V6 4x4 with symptoms similar to "Tim MPV" : Hesitation sputtering, misfire.
I followed this whole thread and tried many of the same things: cleaned MAS, new air filter & plugs (seemed to help for about 60 miles).
I have NOT checked upstream plug wires, dist, rotor yet.
Guessing I should check coil as well?
I also pulled the fuel pump and not a spec of corrosion in the tank anywhere, and the entire pump assembly looks pristine.
I was hoping Tim MPV would've posted a response with the fix (if any).
Anybody have a clue for me?
ORIGINAL: babyhuey
...Sputtering on a hot accel sounds more like an ignition system problem Tim MPV. Would start by checking the secondary ignition components such as plugs, wire, distributor cap and rotor as a start. Distributor cap center buttons getting burnt up and causing missfire are not at all uncommon on older MPV and expessially noticeable after engine warm-up.
...Sputtering on a hot accel sounds more like an ignition system problem Tim MPV. Would start by checking the secondary ignition components such as plugs, wire, distributor cap and rotor as a start. Distributor cap center buttons getting burnt up and causing missfire are not at all uncommon on older MPV and expessially noticeable after engine warm-up.
I have a '97 V6 4x4 with symptoms similar to "Tim MPV" : Hesitation sputtering, misfire.
I followed this whole thread and tried many of the same things: cleaned MAS, new air filter & plugs (seemed to help for about 60 miles).
I have NOT checked upstream plug wires, dist, rotor yet.
Guessing I should check coil as well?
I also pulled the fuel pump and not a spec of corrosion in the tank anywhere, and the entire pump assembly looks pristine.
I was hoping Tim MPV would've posted a response with the fix (if any).
Anybody have a clue for me?
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