Hi,
I had to replace the EVAP system of my Mazda MPV 2004 ES, but now the ODB2 scanner tells me that the EVAP is UNREADY, and thus I have to perform a specific drive cycle.

I found these pages:
- 3c257df7-dd4e-4729-994b-86c6c790e834_drive+cycle+mazda.pdf about the EVAP specific part, but it's the only reference I found about EVAO only
- the complete drive cycle for all the system on this forum (https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/maz...gs-smog-30730/)
I did both and the EVAP is still UNREADY.

Does someone know what is the EVAP specific drive cycle I have to perform?

Do I have to perform all the steps every single time?

Is there a time limit to perform it as I've read somewhere?

Thanks for your help.

 

Did you happen to check for any DTC?

Rarely do you need more then a simple 30 45 highway drive but there is always that one stubborn ECU that needs to just drive it a couple of completely over night sitting cold to operating temperature and just normal driving for about 30-45 minutes a couple of times. Its the worst scenario if no parts are failed and all the connection are in tacked.

You can also try a complete monitor re-set before attempting the next drive cycle as well.

 

Thanks @Callisto for your quick answer.

I haven't any DTC, just EVAP UNREADY.

I put all the connections back in position, hearing the usual "click". Wouldn't I get a DTC if the wire was not properly connected to the EVAP?

So far since the last reset, I've done each one of the drive cycle test twice starting with cold engine as requested, but no 30/45min driving.

 

Ok disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes or more. Reconnect go immediately go to the monitors and reset them. Pull one connector from any coil. Start engine. You should get a DTC thet indicates a misfire code with the cylinder you pulled the connector from. If not then charge battery and load test. If the battery does not pass replace that first. Then check the battery cables both sides battery and at the starter and chassis. Clear the DTC re-start the engine and drive it for 30 45 minutes. You should see most all or all the monitors go to green as in ready> If not then you may I say "MAY" have a problem with the ECU communicating which might lead to a faulty or failing ECU. You could first try a Pass-through which would over write and re-install the OS in the ECU. But your would need to find a shop that has that capability?

My playful discloser: These are all just best and worst scenarios based on limited abilities of mine to be able to diagnosis electrical issues without physically service the vehicle myself.