2000 Milly S
#2
02-02-2013, 11:30 AM
Found this, but can't tell you where. But someone did it on a Mazda 6. I would recommend only cutting 1/2 coil if possible.
The springs are different F/R, as is the weight they are required to carry. If you cleanly cut ONE full coil from the BOTTOM of the front spring and ONE coil from the TOP of the rear spring, you will get a good result. I have a cell photo, but it is too large to attach.
Also cut the first donut section from the bump stops front and rear to allow suspension travel for the reduced ride height.
Note that the effective spring rate increases when a spring is shortened, so it will be somewhat "stiffer". I recommend a few other tweaks associated with the pivot bushings to stiffen the car up as well.
As for alignments, well that depends on intended useage. I intend to autocross mine a bit more seriously, so bought a set of 17x9 Enkei RPF1s and 245/40x17 Dunlops for it. I have also set the front to -2.7 deg camber and the rear at -1.5 deg camber. Toe is zero all around. What may happen when you start moving the front knuckle in for more camber is you will intensify any L/R caster differences which may result is a "pull" you didn't have before. I did get a bit of right drift with so much camber.
HOWEVER, one great thing about the SPC balljoints is that they CAN be rotated for SLIGHT caster change if needed and still maintain your camber settings. You must loosen the top nut and free up the actual balljoint to rotate it using a 1 1/2" or 38mm open end wrench. I needed to add a slight amount of positive caster to the right front and I took and even less amount out of the left front.
The springs are different F/R, as is the weight they are required to carry. If you cleanly cut ONE full coil from the BOTTOM of the front spring and ONE coil from the TOP of the rear spring, you will get a good result. I have a cell photo, but it is too large to attach.
Also cut the first donut section from the bump stops front and rear to allow suspension travel for the reduced ride height.
Note that the effective spring rate increases when a spring is shortened, so it will be somewhat "stiffer". I recommend a few other tweaks associated with the pivot bushings to stiffen the car up as well.
As for alignments, well that depends on intended useage. I intend to autocross mine a bit more seriously, so bought a set of 17x9 Enkei RPF1s and 245/40x17 Dunlops for it. I have also set the front to -2.7 deg camber and the rear at -1.5 deg camber. Toe is zero all around. What may happen when you start moving the front knuckle in for more camber is you will intensify any L/R caster differences which may result is a "pull" you didn't have before. I did get a bit of right drift with so much camber.
HOWEVER, one great thing about the SPC balljoints is that they CAN be rotated for SLIGHT caster change if needed and still maintain your camber settings. You must loosen the top nut and free up the actual balljoint to rotate it using a 1 1/2" or 38mm open end wrench. I needed to add a slight amount of positive caster to the right front and I took and even less amount out of the left front.
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