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Mazda community,
I recently bought a used 2018 FWD Mazda cx-9, I'm approaching the 40k maintenance and I'm shopping around.
Unfortunately for me i still live in CA, this are CA quotes: I've received a quote from a dealership with 3 tiers: preferred ($560), value($460) and minimum ($430).
Now I know that dealership make a good amount of money from maintenance but i don't want to get ripped off with quotes for "blinker fluid"
I used to own an Honda before and the maintenance schedule was pretty clear in the owner manual, anyone here with some good resources for the maintenance of a cx-9?
Out of curiosity attaching the received maintenance tiers:
As they say in poker, “If you’ve been in the game 30 minutes and you don’t know who the patsy is, you’re the patsy.”
If you don't have an owner's manual, phone the dealership parts counter and order one. Follow the owner's manual for maintenance requirements.
For my 2016 CX9 the 40,000 mile maintenance is to renew the spark plugs. This is it. (I did mine at 40k; the old ones were OK, but the new plugs gave the engine more pep.)
At 37,500 miles the following are due: oil & filter change (every 7,500 miles; some of us choose synthetic oil due to the turbocharger), engine air filter, inspect the brakes, inspect the exhaust system & heat shield, tire rotation.
At 45,000 oil & filter, inspect the drive belts; fuel lines & hoses; brake lines, hoses, & connections; brakes; steering operation & linkages; front & rear suspension, ball joints, wheel bearing axial play; driveshaft dust boots; tighten bolts & nuts on chassis & body; rotate tires.
Any or all this work can be done at any licensed auto repair shop. Show them the list in the owner's manual, get each job written on the work order, and save the paperwork in case you have a warranty claim.
Always keep in mind that (a) the service department is the gold mine for the owner of the dealership, (b) the service writers are paid on commission. The more sales jobs they sell, the more money they take home. If they don't sell enough, they're fired. However, the individual who makes the most profit for the owner is the so-called finance manager with all the overpriced and/or unneeded stuff he tries to scare the buyer into getting when they're signing papers.
By the way, there is no power steering fluid in our cars with electric power steering. "Premium Engine Oil Conditioner" is crap--if one wants better oil, buy better oil. The oil company chemists produce the best product to meet a price point; we can't top that. Fuel system conditioners, whatever that is, if actually needed by circumstances are far cheaper for the same snake oil at any auto parts store. Engine crankcase cleaning service is not needed with modern oils changed on schedule. Air conditioner evaporator Frigi-Fresh Sanitizer Service is probably a spritz from an aerosol can, and not needed unless one smells a musty odor. None of these added items will last long in any case.
As they say in poker, “If you’ve been in the game 30 minutes and you don’t know who the patsy is, you’re the patsy.”
If you don't have an owner's manual, phone the dealership parts counter and order one. Follow the owner's manual for maintenance requirements.
For my 2016 CX9 the 40,000 mile maintenance is to renew the spark plugs. This is it. (I did mine at 40k; the old ones were OK, but the new plugs gave the engine more pep.)
At 37,500 miles the following are due: oil & filter change (every 7,500 miles; some of us choose synthetic oil due to the turbocharger), engine air filter, inspect the brakes, inspect the exhaust system & heat shield, tire rotation.
At 45,000 oil & filter, inspect the drive belts; fuel lines & hoses; brake lines, hoses, & connections; brakes; steering operation & linkages; front & rear suspension, ball joints, wheel bearing axial play; driveshaft dust boots; tighten bolts & nuts on chassis & body; rotate tires.
Any or all this work can be done at any licensed auto repair shop. Show them the list in the owner's manual, get each job written on the work order, and save the paperwork in case you have a warranty claim.
Always keep in mind that (a) the service department is the gold mine for the owner of the dealership, (b) the service writers are paid on commission. The more sales jobs they sell, the more money they take home. If they don't sell enough, they're fired. However, the individual who makes the most profit for the owner is the so-called finance manager with all the overpriced and/or unneeded stuff he tries to scare the buyer into getting when they're signing papers.
By the way, there is no power steering fluid in our cars with electric power steering. "Premium Engine Oil Conditioner" is crap--if one wants better oil, buy better oil. The oil company chemists produce the best product to meet a price point; we can't top that. Fuel system conditioners, whatever that is, if actually needed by circumstances are far cheaper for the same snake oil at any auto parts store. Engine crankcase cleaning service is not needed with modern oils changed on schedule. Air conditioner evaporator Frigi-Fresh Sanitizer Service is probably a spritz from an aerosol can, and not needed unless one smells a musty odor. None of these added items will last long in any case.
Thank you for the great reply, i guess this is a shady dealership that will not get my business.
Thanks!
I agree with the prior post and will add that your Mazda should need no more service then the best Honda. The list you got from the dealership appears to be their scheme to boost profits. One step before selling you lifetime blinker fluid and selling you an upgrade next year.
The manual should be able to be downloaded from the Mazda website. I will add that you should get the brake fluid changed every 2 years or so. I don’t think this is in the manual but I think it is well worth the price.
I would find a local licensed mechanic and trust him for advice if it doesn’t deviate from the recommended too much. I would also ask the mechanic to do everything that might have been missed before you bought it.
Agree on the brake fluid. The brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. When it contains too much moisture the heat from emergency braking can cause the fluid to flash to steam, the pedal goes to the floor, and you crash. A brake fluid flush every 2 or 3 years is wise. (There's more moisture in the air in humid parts of the country than in dry parts, Baltimore vs. Phoenix, say; use good judgement.)
First time maintenance
