I don't ever recommend the use of anything except direct connection to the OBDII Dianostic connector. most of those apps are... %^^*^&%$#
Your readings come from the ECU
You should always confirm temperature readings from the ECU with separate gauge not connected to the ECU to confirm reading in the case of temperature operating questions.
Your thermostat is 195F and the temperature range of coolant can be as high as 210F. Higher than something is wrong!

My concern is no DTC's??? This is a communication problem with the ECU? I would force a DTC to confirm the ECU is at least alive...LOL
Start engine and disconnect a coil pack you should get a DTC relating to that cylinder as a misfire DTC. This only will show that the ECU does report issues but is not a definitive way to health check the ECU.

It is pointing more towards a faulty thermostat which would be good if that all it is and no other damage was caused from all the overheating events?

 

The thermostat is replaced. Now I just need to install a new serpentine belt. I would have never guessed that installing the serpentine belt would be a problem. I've had to order the longest one available K060905A (91-3/16" long). I hope it fits. Once I have the belt installed I can start the car up and bleed the coolant system. I'll also unplug one coil pack to see if the ECU throws a DTC.

 

 

I am having the same issue with the dashboard temp gauge jumping when the car is driven. In my case, at first becoming aware of a problem, the coolant outlet gasket blew and caused coolant to leak out all over the engine which created the smell and smoke coming out from under the hood while driving. I found a video describing it a a fatal flaw on duratec motors in Mazda and Ford models. My son replaced the coolant outlet that attaches to the engine but now it's still overheating exactly as you describe?

I'm trying to figure out why it is overheating after this repair or perhaps what caused enough pressure to blow the seal on the coolant outlet box which may still require replacement/repair! The thermostat, coolant sensor or water pump were next on the list, perhaps even a replacement radiator cap.

As a long shot, I was wondering where the plastic shard that breaks away from the plastic coolant outlet may have gone into the cooling system and if it could be blocking the flow of coolant somehow?

In your situation, you haven't mentioned a leak at the coolant outlet, but I'm wondering if the seal is broken and you are not aware of it yet?

Anyway, I'm at a loss on figuring this out too. Waiting to see if the thermostat replacement fixes your problem.. I know mine is opening but not sure about sticking or something else is wrong?

 

Welcome to the forum
It would be better if you start your own thread. This thread is for another member that we are still hopefully working on a resolve!

 

I can post a picture of my broken coolant outlet (a piece of plastic that attaches to the aluminum head on the drivers side) for reference. My comment is a little unclear about further repairs. I meant that the new outlet box and seal has not solved the overheating problem which leads me to think it was caused by something else that is difficult to diagnose (as in your situation). The car goes from cold to warm up okay, the return radiator hose on top gets hot eventually (which should mean that the thermostat opens) at 190'F or so as it should. Then the dash gauge goes to redline after trying to drive the car of a minute or two at low speed.

 

I suggest again to not hijack this members thread. he is still working on HIS problem. START your own thread!
If you want help you should be respectful of members having thier threads with problem and wanting help.

 

I think both our problems are related as the coolant outlet failure is apparently not the cause of the overheating. More of a consequence of something else.

 

You miss the point ???
And you miss how this convolutes this thread before the FIRST member that started this thread gets his problem resolved.
... LOL better yet start your own thread?

Some of us that help members cant get piled up with other member just jumping in a thread like this with their problems while it is still active with the original member working on his issues?

 

For any member that has a similar issue please start from the beginning of this thread and re-read all the responses and my suggesting.
The one thing I do highly suggest not to do is randomly replace any parts before they are verified to be faulty. This often times will cause other issues and convolute the discovery of the original problem.
The use of internet YouTube is not the best place to find specific problem because often times those DIY and even some that "mechanics provide are missing basic diagnosing in a manor better suited to finding a problem. Each problem should be handled on a one-on-one basis unless by some chance your vehicle has ALL the same operating conditions which also mean the same year make model mileage and operating environment> Not likely this is going to happen!
Cooling system REQUIRE the use of several diagnostic tools to test not only electrical components but to test pressures and temperatures. You cannot guess or assume anything based on what the dash gauges or even the ECU at the OBDII diagnostic connector is showing unless they are backed up with independent testing and equipment that can verify their operation and operating information!

ASE (ASE for some that do not understand what this is at times when I respond in some the treads)
Current L1 & L2 +30years
Automotive Service Excellence - Wikipedia