Transmission Fluid Recommendation
#11
I see; well I appreciate that. I could not tell based on your grammar where your source of enjoyment was coming from. Regardless, that is what the technician told me; he claimed he was a QC (Quality control) tech and it kind of threw me for a loop but I didn't pry. Dealerships are making such a killing these days employees can probably pick and choose what to call themselves lol.
So you think it’s worth going ahead with the trans mount too? The guy who inspected didn’t bring it up in his diagnoses but I’d imagine it’s worn at a similar rate. I’m more impressed they were able to quote me $650 on a rotor resurface job lmao.
So you think it’s worth going ahead with the trans mount too? The guy who inspected didn’t bring it up in his diagnoses but I’d imagine it’s worn at a similar rate. I’m more impressed they were able to quote me $650 on a rotor resurface job lmao.
#12
I see; well I appreciate that. I could not tell based on your grammar where your source of enjoyment was coming from. Regardless, that is what the technician told me; he claimed he was a QC (Quality control) tech and it kind of threw me for a loop but I didn't pry. Dealerships are making such a killing these days employees can probably pick and choose what to call themselves lol.
So you think it’s worth going ahead with the trans mount too? The guy who inspected didn’t bring it up in his diagnoses, but I’d imagine it’s worn at a similar rate. I’m more impressed they were able to quote me $650 on a rotor resurface job lmao.
So you think it’s worth going ahead with the trans mount too? The guy who inspected didn’t bring it up in his diagnoses, but I’d imagine it’s worn at a similar rate. I’m more impressed they were able to quote me $650 on a rotor resurface job lmao.
Did I total miss the brake problem? Can you detail what is included in their "rotor" resurface service?
And yes, I agree title upgrading gives some the feeling of advancement and also for customer a sense of professionalism and experienced level personal.
I have 3 installers, 2 mechanic's one is ASE and 2 certified ASE Master technicians one being myself. LOL
#13
I’ll go ahead with the mounts then. As for the rotors I couldn’t tell you exactly. Right before closing I got a video sent to me with the tech giving me a basic explanation of some of the things going on and an invoice that I could agree to certain work to be done with pricing. It is a 2.5L if I haven’t answered that yet.
Tomorrow I’ll get get some more info but the invoice listed one of the jobs being rotor resurfacing and the price; my guess is it’s a full re-surfacing of every corner with some servicing of the slide pins etc, maybe even new pads. The pulsation isn’t terrible yet but I’d rather replace the rotors myself anyways. Timing cover slight weep sounds pretty typical from what I’ve read. Less than a quart of consumption every 5,000 miles, I’m happy. Especially since the FSM states a quart every 3,000 is normal from the factory.
Tomorrow I’ll get get some more info but the invoice listed one of the jobs being rotor resurfacing and the price; my guess is it’s a full re-surfacing of every corner with some servicing of the slide pins etc, maybe even new pads. The pulsation isn’t terrible yet but I’d rather replace the rotors myself anyways. Timing cover slight weep sounds pretty typical from what I’ve read. Less than a quart of consumption every 5,000 miles, I’m happy. Especially since the FSM states a quart every 3,000 is normal from the factory.
#15
Definitely call around. The dealership will charge you over $1300 easily. My mechanic did all four pads + rotors along with the brake fluid for $860 altogether on my girlfriend's '21 CX-5 Touring. Since I have the Turbo I think my brakes may be bigger, and more $$$.
#16
Hey @Callisto , I'm curious what method of applying RTV to the transmission pan did you use when you dropped yours to change the fluid? Did you apply it to both the pan and transmission case mating surfaces or just the pan? Did you do a full continuous bead around the pan or did you wipe it with your finger leaving no breaks in the RTV?
I think I'm leaning more towards wiping it with my finger and keeping things on the thinner side so I avoid any chance of RTV oozing into the pan when compressed and mixing with the fluid.
I think I'm leaning more towards wiping it with my finger and keeping things on the thinner side so I avoid any chance of RTV oozing into the pan when compressed and mixing with the fluid.
#17
Hey @Callisto , I'm curious what method of applying RTV to the transmission pan did you use when you dropped yours to change the fluid? Did you apply it to both the pan and transmission case mating surfaces or just the pan? Did you do a full continuous bead around the pan or did you wipe it with your finger leaving no breaks in the RTV?
I think I'm leaning more towards wiping it with my finger and keeping things on the thinner side so I avoid any chance of RTV oozing into the pan when compressed and mixing with the fluid.
I think I'm leaning more towards wiping it with my finger and keeping things on the thinner side so I avoid any chance of RTV oozing into the pan when compressed and mixing with the fluid.
#18
Huh didn’t know a rubber gasket was an option. Looks like you have a Mazda 3, did it come from factory with a rubber gasket or did you decide to use a gasket instead of RTV? I’m almost certain mine has just RTV sealing the pan.
That is a good technique though; I’ve usually done something similar like using grease or silicone to keep a gasket/o-ring in place during assembly.
That is a good technique though; I’ve usually done something similar like using grease or silicone to keep a gasket/o-ring in place during assembly.
#19
Huh didn’t know a rubber gasket was an option. Looks like you have a Mazda 3, did it come from factory with a rubber gasket or did you decide to use a gasket instead of RTV? I’m almost certain mine has just RTV sealing the pan.
That is a good technique though; I’ve usually done something similar like using grease or silicone to keep a gasket/o-ring in place during assembly.
That is a good technique though; I’ve usually done something similar like using grease or silicone to keep a gasket/o-ring in place during assembly.
The application to successfully use sealer alone on mating surfaces is another completely different step process and actually more time consuming.
BTW I never recommend grease (petroleum ingredients) on any gasket with the exception of some pre 1950's engines. This goes for any oil ring that is rubber.
#20
Interesting, what brand of gasket did you get and I’m assuming it has held up leak free? Was it like a Beck/Arnley kit with trans filter and gasket? Just found a shop called Cobra Transmissions that makes rubber gaskets for our transmission.