Hey everyone,
My GF is a proud owner of a 2016.5 CX-5 GT with 100k miles on the clock. Great maintenance records, oil changed every 6000 miles like clockwork at a Mazda Dealership. One unfortunate circumstance is the previous owner did not ever have the transmission serviced likely because the techs at Mazda probably told her it's a "Lifetime Sealed Transmission".

Now I am in somewhat of a predicament as I do not know what the best course of action is moving forward. If you talked to someone like the Toyota CarCareNut guy he'd probably recommend doing just a drain and fill, no pan drop, or possibly even only draining half of the pan, see how it fairs with only replacing a little. Transmission shifts well, only when cold is it a little sluggish which I've read is pretty normal. My first plan was to drain a little out and replace what I took out. If no degradation in shifting performance, than I'm good to go with dropping the pan and changing the filter. Any comment on this method? I would love for the dealership to do this but then again I'm worried about their attention to detail when scraping the old RTV off and applying a new bead. Am I being paranoid?

One issue we have noticed is when accelerating in the lower RPMs there is a rumble/vibration in the cabin that you can hear and kind of feel in your inner-ear if that makes any sense. Not something you really feel through the seat or steering wheel. My first initial guess was engine mounts and through research it looks like there is a TSB for 2017 and on CX-5 engine mounts but not so sure about a 2016.5. There is a slight shake/vibration of the whole vehicle when stopped at a light still in Drive. Both symptoms point to engine mount but I guess the vibration under acceleration could be driveline related and the shaking at a stop light could be transmission related. This is my first experience with a Direct Injection vehicle so I'm not exactly sure of some of the symptoms of carbon build up in the intake and EGR but I'm assuming it can have similar symptoms to what I'm describing maybe? Someone can chip in on that one.

The differentials were serviced by the previous owner so my guess if driveline is the issue would be U-joints/out-of-balance driveshaft or wheel bearing assembly. Any common failure points on these? There is a very slight pulsation when braking which means maybe the rotors are beginning to warp which can sometimes be wheel bearing related as I found out very obviously on my old Pathy with a tapered roller bearing hub/rotor assembly. I do know these are the cartridge style wheel bearing assemblies though.

Lastly I'm curious how safe it is to wait until 120,000 miles to give the CX-5 its first coolant change like it recommends in the service manual? Should I just go ahead and get it done? Do they give it a flush at the dealership? Regardless, I appreciate your comments none the less! Happy to be apart of the Mazda community now!

 

The transmission is long over due for a filter and pan fluid change.
Slugish shifting is not normal but we can say normal and more than likely from those that have not service the filter and fluid at regular intervals.
If you find TSB then you should understand them completely and not simply read them and think they apply to your condition. They are written for Automotive technicians not DIY . Sorry I deal with this not only of forums but ITRW with customers always bringing them to me and telling me what is wrong with their vehicle. LOL
Example... A person sneezed and have a runny nose and read that is a symptom of covid.
DI engine do not always give a sign when they start to form or have a substantial amount of carbon build up. The only way is either pull the intake manifold or scope it. But many DIY also read what the signs are and think they have covid!

The word common should be stricken from parts or system wear, how did anyone determine this because it does not match the production numbers and also when they are failing based on miles, operating environment and time period of service. Don't assume or think the worst that is what a complete inspection is for to determine parts and systems health.

The coolant should be changed at 50k miles I don't care what auto manufacture are implying. A chemical test can show this is more accurate then 100k miles or more without a cooling system coolant flush and replacement.

I use Castrol ATF picture below as shou may want to consider or MAZDA ATF.




I just took this picture for you as I am getting ready to do another pan filter and fluid service on my 2018 Mazda 3 2.5 Skyactiv engine.
I have done several oil and transmission fluid oil analysis that you can find and read on my thread.

Mazda3 Things I like to do - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
Currently getting ready to do a 50k mile service. POST #411 .

 

I'll take your word for it on being overdue for a filter change. I have seen reports on this vehicle that when owners did end up dropping the pan between the 50k-100k range they were greeted with very little buildup on the magnets though. From what I can tell as is endemic with most modern transmissions, is the filter is a glorified rock catcher. Regardless, slow shifting that improves as the transmission fluid is heated by the radiator (not sure if this system has its own transmission cooler or not) is not anything new. Especially with CVT transmissions (which I get this is not), their fluid has a pretty narrow operating temperature hence why you don't just slap on the largest aftermarket tranny cooler you can find.

As far as TSBs go, they are TSBs because they were discovered to be a wider complication after the fact. In fact, we are still to this day finding more cars under the Takata recall which I understand is a recall but still goes to show. I wouldn't think I am making any wild assumption, the vehicle is a 2016.5 and the TSB mentions MY 2017 and on. I've had personal experience with TSBs not including all effected years on my last vehicle with a IACV allowing coolant to short the ECU.

When I say "common" I'm more referring to a trend. Wear items can also fall short of being optimized for the environment its in and become a glaring design flaw. Just curious if anyone had a similar experience to report with what we've discovered.

It really boils down to if I can't locate the source of the vibration myself, I'd like to go into the dealership with a plan so that I am not shafted. I think I'll go ahead and get the coolant flushed at our next appointment like you recommend. I'll see how accessible the thermostat is and factor that in. Most definitely I will be using the Mazda FZ ATF for sure.

 

You joined the forum for help and to have some questions answered but apparently seem to think you have all the answers based on other forums and their members postings?
Auh ok then!

Good luck with your GFs Mazda...2016(point 5) Mazda

ASE

 

So then what would be your recommendation when taking it in to the dealership for an inspection? I understand your sentiment to some capacity but not every consumer is that evil "DIY" person you deal with. I was thinking maybe I might ask if I can have a tech ride in the vehicle with me so I can point out the booming vibration when it happens during the RPM range. Also conveniently just noticed the other post about failing rear diffs maybe that is something to consider bringing up? Fluid was changed by the PO though.

 

Not sure where you got the idea, I think that every consumer is that evil "DIY" person. But there are some that are a PIA mostly those that solved their vehicle problem from their findings on the internet and want some service shop to follow their advice to repair or service. LOL
um you are not going to have symptoms of hypochondria when it comes to your MAZDA based on what other DIY and none experience in the auto mechanical world post on the internet are you? lol.
Not every reported issue is accurate to say the least and most identify things incorrectly that misleads some service people to look for things in places that turn out to be totally wrong!

Going with your service person on a ride alone to describe exactly what you hear or experience is a GREAT IDEA and I recommend it often. I also do this at least 6-to a dozen times a week with my customers.

The service Tech or mechanic should get your MAZDA up on the lift to get underneath and use a sound diagnostic sound device.

 

Just got a report back on inspection. I was able to take a QC tech on a drive and he basically said some of what I was experiencing is normal. Essentially the vibration from what he described was happening during torque converter lockup which causes the shuttering felt in the cabin. It’s not really a shutter like you would think with the car jerking during shifts but more of a fluttering vibration heard within the cabin not really felt. There is no transmission shutter (best way to describe it is when you have your rear windows down but not the front windows). Anyways it makes sense as it generally only happens between 25mph and 40mph when I’m in 5th or 6th gear when the RPMs are low and the converter locks for efficiency. If you get down on the accelerator and the transmission down shifts it goes away generally.

Well I had my mind made up and was thinking it was just a quick transmission fluid swap to get going in the right direction but I just got the inspection report back and the top “No.3” engine mount is failing causing the bracket to “bottom out”. Also an oil weep coming from the timing cover which I’m not too worried about as it’s been not even a quart lost after almost 5,000 miles. How many people have switched to 5w-30? Is it imperative to use API SM oils?

So where I’m at is they are asking $370 to change just the top “No.3” engine mount. Did some quick digging and I found 2 different part numbers for this part “Rubber No.3, ENG. MTG.” depending on which Mazda parts website you use.

First part #: GJL3-39-060 I can find for as low as like $120. The second part number: KD47-39-060C is closer to $300. Both say they apply to my 2016 CX-5 2.5L AWD and both have the exact same name. Only difference is the $300 part stops being applicable for any Mazda at 2016 while the $120 part is used on variants up to 2018. Am I missing something here; I know Nissan has their “Value Advantage/Select” line but never for a component such as an engine mount. Anyway to confirm which is the proper (recommended) mount from the manufacturer? Let me know what you think, cheers!

I should note Mazda USA lists both parts applying to my car. $163.80 vs $306.40 respectively.

 

Gosch "CHAM-it"....... I was going to avoid this thread, but I have to just post that the mentioned QC tech (wtf is QC lol) needs to learn about how a torque converter works. But I like the quick story about it operation to was, or at least in your words how he explained it to you.

I had to go look what possible meaning a QC is, love this Quality Control... rolmao!

When you get your Mazda straighten out mostly with bad engine and transmission mounts .... wait.... wait for it.... maybe your torque converter vibration will go away. LOL

This has become my go to read thread to get a laugh or at least a smile on my face. Please keep posting!

 

So we’ve devolved into pointing fingers and laughing instead of offering any insight. I’m not sure if you’re trying to rip on me or the “Quality Control” tech but I did exactly as you recommended. Are you saying the engine mount failure is a bogus claim? A separate technician did the inspection and found that the top engine mount was nearly bottoming out, not the “QC” tech. He was just there for the drive.

Or are you saying that both the top engine mount and the transmission mount are likely the source of my vibration and it is silly to think it has anything to do with the torque converter?

 

You should slow down and read. What I said was that was a interesting story if you accurately wrote what was told to you about the vibration being normal for the operation of a Torque converter.
I am interested about your dealership that have so many TECHNICIANS on their payroll. Or are you assuming that is what they are? Back to your QC if your report from he/she is accurate clearly that is not one.

As for the mounts I was serious, get them changed and see if your transmission vibration goes away. my "GUESS" is yes!

There is a reason why the 2.5 Skyactiv engine has a balance shaft. I am assuming you have the 2.5 and not the 2.0. You didn't give the important details of your Mazda in the first post.