Smart City Brake Malfunction - New 2016 CX-5
#61
02-24-2023, 03:31 PM
Associated turbo issues - 2.2d engine
Had the three warning lights on, followed by engine management warning light. Turned out turbo was knackered. 86k on the engine. Turns out the same happened to my mechanic’s sisters CX5 the following week. So there seems to be a connection with those warning lights and the turbo blowing. Weird! Had to use a refurbished turbo as wasn’t forking out £2700 to the main dealer.
#62
04-16-2023, 09:32 PM
The service manager was glad that I'd left the car running when, as he was (a) able to see the warning lights on the dash, and (b) was able to run the diagnostics with the car running.
What set off the SCBS malfunction was a malfunction in the tire pressure warning system. There was nothing wrong with the pressures themselves, but the TP warning tripped for some unknown reason, which triggered the SCBS malfunction and disabled the forward SCBS. He reset the tire pressure system, cleaned out the codes and all the lights went back to normal.
He said that if there is an EZpass (toll transponder) located in the upper right corner of where all the lasers/computers/cameras are, the transponder "might" be interfering with the SCBS. There is another SCBS device in the Mazda logo in the front grill; if that gets dirty or something is covering the Mazda logo, that "might" trigger the SCBS to malfunction.
Basically, he didn't know what was going on and hopes it was just the tire pressure issue which dumped the SCBS. He was interested that someone else had had the same problem.
What set off the SCBS malfunction was a malfunction in the tire pressure warning system. There was nothing wrong with the pressures themselves, but the TP warning tripped for some unknown reason, which triggered the SCBS malfunction and disabled the forward SCBS. He reset the tire pressure system, cleaned out the codes and all the lights went back to normal.
He said that if there is an EZpass (toll transponder) located in the upper right corner of where all the lasers/computers/cameras are, the transponder "might" be interfering with the SCBS. There is another SCBS device in the Mazda logo in the front grill; if that gets dirty or something is covering the Mazda logo, that "might" trigger the SCBS to malfunction.
Basically, he didn't know what was going on and hopes it was just the tire pressure issue which dumped the SCBS. He was interested that someone else had had the same problem.
Just before tomorrow's dealership appointment, I checked the tires; all were down around 30psi. (There was no warning from TPMS.) Filled to 34psi and test drove. Errors gone. Cruise works.
Very useful Forum. Thank you everyone.
(Also noted the Service Advisor mentioned the possibility of an EX Pass transponder in the ceiling tray may have triggered it so I willkeep an eye on this.
Will report back if it reoccurs.
#63
04-16-2023, 10:59 PM
On our 2019 CX-5 Touring with 32,000 miles, we got the dreaded SCBS error. Looking in forums and Google search found advice about cleaning the sensors. Did that, no change. Reset the sensors to defaults made no difference. I had also come across mention of tire pressure.
Just before tomorrow's dealership appointment, I checked the tires; all were down around 30psi. (There was no warning from TPMS.) Filled to 34psi and test drove. Errors gone. Cruise works.
Very useful Forum. Thank you everyone.
(Also noted the Service Advisor mentioned the possibility of an EX Pass transponder in the ceiling tray may have triggered it so I willkeep an eye on this.
Will report back if it reoccurs.
Just before tomorrow's dealership appointment, I checked the tires; all were down around 30psi. (There was no warning from TPMS.) Filled to 34psi and test drove. Errors gone. Cruise works.
Very useful Forum. Thank you everyone.
(Also noted the Service Advisor mentioned the possibility of an EX Pass transponder in the ceiling tray may have triggered it so I willkeep an eye on this.
Will report back if it reoccurs.
#65
11-19-2023, 03:54 PM
P0101 fault code with SCBS, TPMS, engine light
I have a. 2.2d Sport Nav, Manual, 75k 2015.
I’ve had a good look around on this to see what the fault is that’s causing these issues and this is a list of potential causes/issues that I’ve identified. The fault lights/error typically (but not always) tend to happen when I am decelerating, going downhill, apply brakes, go over a bit of a dip/bump in the road surface.
The SCBS/TPMS lights when they come up along with the P0101 fault code are basically not the issue to focus on. Don’t spend time/money on the SCBS, focus on/prioritise the P0101 code.
Now a lot of the root cause of the P0101 code from what I have read are to do with the carbon build up at different points, e.g. sensors, throttle, intake manifold, damaged/blocked pipes or hoses.
There are also a couple of poor components that could be the issue (camshaft, sensors etc.).
There have been a couple of recalls around some of these as well, so make sure you’ve checked your VIN on the Mazda site for any recalls.
Possible causes I’ve identified:
-Intake shutter valve - soot accumulation - recall.
-Faulty Sensors - mass air flow sensor (swapped mine and it made no difference) I’ve also replaced the exhaust pressure sensor and DPF pressure sensor.
-Poor camshaft quality, causing excessive shavings and eventually leading to a Vacuum pump fault. I’ve seen it recommended to replace both the vacuum pump and have the cam shafts checked/replaced.
-Brake pedal sensor - read in one forum this fixed it but I think this may have been an outlier.
-Clogged DPF - I had this cleaned out and put in new sensors as part of a separate issue.
-full decoke. I’ve read that a full decoke could be the remedy, but I think this would be suitable for higher mileage
-clean/replace injectors
-clean/replace fuel pump (don’t think this is the issue for me)
-clean/replace turbo (don’t think and really hope this is the issue for me)
-general recommendations (apologies for stating the obvious!): try not to use supermarket fuels; make sure you drive it like a diesel should be driven - long runs on the motorway etc. and at least give it a good long run once a fortnight (>2500 RPM, >40mph, >20mins). Everyone has a different opinion on the revs/duration required - idea is to built up enough heat in the DPF to turn the carbon to ash (like a pyrolytic oven), get yourself even a basic OBD reader so you can see what the code(s) are before you go to a garage etc.
mine is due in for the intake shutter valve recall in December, I hadn’t realised there was a recall out as we moved during Covid and I hadn’t thought to check until I started getting error codes appearing.
will post back here if that makes a difference and anything the dealer recommends. As always, incredibly nervous of the costs if the dealer starts recommending things! Keen to get at least another 4/5 years out of the car as it’s generally been a brilliant car for us.
I’ve had a good look around on this to see what the fault is that’s causing these issues and this is a list of potential causes/issues that I’ve identified. The fault lights/error typically (but not always) tend to happen when I am decelerating, going downhill, apply brakes, go over a bit of a dip/bump in the road surface.
The SCBS/TPMS lights when they come up along with the P0101 fault code are basically not the issue to focus on. Don’t spend time/money on the SCBS, focus on/prioritise the P0101 code.
Now a lot of the root cause of the P0101 code from what I have read are to do with the carbon build up at different points, e.g. sensors, throttle, intake manifold, damaged/blocked pipes or hoses.
There are also a couple of poor components that could be the issue (camshaft, sensors etc.).
There have been a couple of recalls around some of these as well, so make sure you’ve checked your VIN on the Mazda site for any recalls.
Possible causes I’ve identified:
-Intake shutter valve - soot accumulation - recall.
-Faulty Sensors - mass air flow sensor (swapped mine and it made no difference) I’ve also replaced the exhaust pressure sensor and DPF pressure sensor.
-Poor camshaft quality, causing excessive shavings and eventually leading to a Vacuum pump fault. I’ve seen it recommended to replace both the vacuum pump and have the cam shafts checked/replaced.
-Brake pedal sensor - read in one forum this fixed it but I think this may have been an outlier.
-Clogged DPF - I had this cleaned out and put in new sensors as part of a separate issue.
-full decoke. I’ve read that a full decoke could be the remedy, but I think this would be suitable for higher mileage
-clean/replace injectors
-clean/replace fuel pump (don’t think this is the issue for me)
-clean/replace turbo (don’t think and really hope this is the issue for me)
-general recommendations (apologies for stating the obvious!): try not to use supermarket fuels; make sure you drive it like a diesel should be driven - long runs on the motorway etc. and at least give it a good long run once a fortnight (>2500 RPM, >40mph, >20mins). Everyone has a different opinion on the revs/duration required - idea is to built up enough heat in the DPF to turn the carbon to ash (like a pyrolytic oven), get yourself even a basic OBD reader so you can see what the code(s) are before you go to a garage etc.
mine is due in for the intake shutter valve recall in December, I hadn’t realised there was a recall out as we moved during Covid and I hadn’t thought to check until I started getting error codes appearing.
will post back here if that makes a difference and anything the dealer recommends. As always, incredibly nervous of the costs if the dealer starts recommending things! Keen to get at least another 4/5 years out of the car as it’s generally been a brilliant car for us.
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