Hi Everyone,

Just had an oil change done and my rear brakes are at 4mm and 3mm. I have a Turbo so I know that the front brakes are bigger than the naturally aspirated CX-5s, and I know I have dual-piston as opposed to the single-piston brakes. I was wondering if the rear brakes are the same size on my turbo as they are on the naturally aspirated, or if they're also different. I'm just asking to get a rough idea if it'll cost more for my mechanic to do them. My front brakes are at 11mm since they were replaced prior to buying the car as a CPO car, so those are fine.

As for question number 2, it pertains to the battery on my car. The battery appears to be original and since my car is a 2021, it is at least 3 years old, if not 4. I've noticed that when it gets very cold, it takes slightly longer with a few more cranks to start up the car. I had the battery tested at the dealer and they said it is still good, but the charge of it is at 65% (image below). I know that batteries can go bad even at 2 years old so I am going to try and have it replaced under warranty while I still can utilize it. Would any of you agree that it's time to change it and that 65% charge is getting really low?


My battery after being tested.


Thanks for all the help and advice!

 

How do you drive this car? Short trips and stop and go driving
don't generally give enough time for the alternator to fully charge the
battery. I got 7 years on a factory battery though I had at least one
highway trip per week. This was 40 mile round trip for shopping. That way
the battery got a full charge each week.
Put a charger on it over night say and re-test.

My 2¢

 

I drive a pretty good mix of city and highway, but during the college semesters I am doing mostly city mileage. I do drive a lot of miles on the highway too though on some days. I had driven 40 minutes north prior to the battery being tested, so it should have charged at its peak by then.

 

My original battery didn't last two years.
The test specs look good, but I would note that the TOPDON BT300P tester states the following though I can't specifically say what that exactly means.
If the battery charge is too high or too low, it will affect the test results. If the battery charge is too high, there is usually floating electricity. In this case, it is generally recommended that customers turn on the car headlights for 2-3 minutes and remove the floating electricity before testing. Low battery may be caused by excessive use of the battery and not charging it in time. In this case, it is also recommended to charge it for a period of time before testing.

 

Have the battery re-tested at another location. Batteries must be 12.50 volts minimum for a proper testing. Not sure why they tested your battery at that voltage??
A battery that is plus 13 volts will have the same accurate results if tested correctly it is when a battery is not at least fully charged that the results can be in question.
The size of your brakes has very little to do with wear factor it is mainly you're driving/braking habits first on the list. It is generally less expensive to get brakes done at an intendent service shop than a dealership. Sometime even a better warranty?
As for the rear it depends on the method the service mechanic decides to use. Because it is electric parking brake there is an extra step that actually adds to the labor time but not technically necessary for an experienced Auto Technician. (not mechanic) A good shop will know these labor techniques and the better ones past the savings to their customer's. At least we do!




To be more specific: a fully charged battery ideally measures at 12.66 volts and above, but 12.6 volts at 80 degrees, 12.588 degrees at 30 degrees, and 12.516 volts at 0 degrees are acceptable readings. A 75% charged battery will measure closer to 12.45 volts while anything below 12 volts indicates the battery is effectively discharged.

​​​​​​Battery System Standard Description; Measuring Range; Warnings - Topdon BT300P User Manual [Page 10] | ManualsLib

 

deleted was suppose to be for another thread.

 

Did you mean to post this on a different thread lmao?

 

I emailed somebody from the service department where I previously had warranty work done. They said if the battery tests weak/low/good, but still passes the test then it cannot be replaced under warranty. Obviously they would have to test it themselves since I am using info from a different dealer. I'll keep an eye on it until my warranty expires.

 

I am currently posting/participating in 7 forums... so ya it was supposed to go in another thread. Sorry. I will delete it from your thread, but you need to delete the reminder to me?
LOL
2.5L MZR L5-VE engine cover insulation - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

Personally, and as, you are my friend pursue another place to test it. Then when you get at least 2 other places that test as a failing battery get the dealership to replace it or document that they will not even with your other test results.
If you lived closer, I could call and arrange the dealership here and have them replace it!
I have heard this a few times from my customers that when I test their battery, they said the dealership said it was fine. Yet in just a few weeks or more I get them back to change out their failed battery? LOL

I am not sure why your dealership lets that reading go as it does effect other electronics and may leave you unexpectedly with a not start?

 

If you are driving a Mazda manufactured from at least 2014 to present this information is incorrect. The battery will charge if it is not depleted by the small devices which would take over a week or more to drop below 12 volts. So a 5 minute engine running time would actually fully quick charge the battery at least back to 12.5-12.6 volts sustained.