The reason independent service shops do not like or have stipulation about customers bring their own parts has to do with the warranty period of the parts and the labor should the shop need to change them out. The cost of the part is generally the same or very close to retail that way if the part fails as an example in less than 30 days the shop will replace them free both the part and the labor. But if a customer brings their own part then the shop loses because they made no profit on the part should that same part fail in a 30-day period or less. Parts for many retailers often have warranties that can range from 30 days to 12 months or more. No service shop could maintain a business in the black if they had to give free labor for replacing parts failure under a warranty. So generally, it is better to let the shop get and install the part so that you are fully covered.

Family and some friends in the shop I run get cost on parts and a discount of service and free if the service Tech comes in on their day off when the shop is closed to use the shop for a service.

 

That is understood by me and my local shop.
If the part(s), I bring in fail it's up to me to get the part replaced and pay for the labor for them to replace it.
Never had an issue so far but I generally purchase top quality parts.
Plus, I don't generally bring in my own parts unless they can't get them or their mark-up cost is too high.
Which hasn't been the case as in the past I've steered them to some "business contacts" who give them good product discounts.
However, I always bring in my own choice of performance brake parts to my local service shop.

 

It such an issue that we have customer sign disclaimers. Most service shops in the USA that allow customer to bring their own parts have similar wavier/disclaimers.
I am only posting so that other reading understands why .... parts are the same cost or sometimes more than a retail brick and mortar auto parts store, and that it on them should the part fail prematurely leaving them responsible for the labor charge to replace them.
Safety parts like brakes are even more of a liability concern when customer bring their own parts. And there are many shops that will not install some parts like brake pads, drums and discs if customer supplied. I am sure that goes to the details of the shops insurance policy more so than preference.

Going back to the parts cost at a service shop vs what people may think is too high. No one unless in the auto parts business knows the actual pricing point that any particular shop or retail store or even chain store get on product from the distributor or manufacture. That information is generally confidential. The easiest way to explain this is for the few that worked in a parts warehouse for sales can remember when a customer called, they had an account number that when either old school cataloging or on the computer would look at the pricing structure for that account which was called blue, yellow, pink or green sheet pricing. The computer however when paper cataloging was slowly being replaced would automatically adjust the pricing for the part based on the account number.

The other really BIG problem is customers will often buy and i have read it many times on this forum buy parts even if boxed or packaged known quality parts from an unauthorized seller of the parts. That makes first for the customer likely NO warranty at all and also who knows the original origin or the parts. There are retail whole and even warehouses that go out of business and have their inventory auctioned off. Those parts are then sold via the internet from what appears to be legitimate sellers. And in the end if there is an issue, they get no warranty, and the shop cannot even file for a labor claim with the manufacture.

 

Good to point out not to purchase parts or anything for that matter, from unknown sources.
I only purchase genuine products from reputable sellers and direct from the manufacturer whenever possible.
Having had an assortment of employment fields, I'm a bit of an exception to the norm as I know the mark up percentage of most of the "parts" I've worked with.
I've built up a large number of great contacts in nearly every field I've been employed in.
It literally "pays" off in the long run to be friendly to those you work or have worked, customers included, even if you may not particularly like them.

 

Yes - But from that audio its not enough information- Go in for a diagnostic at a reputable dealer - tires - cv -joints - also flooding is common in that area -
-You could smack a curb and do bearing damage - but it needs to be examined - road tested and put up on a rack - Consider it a good time to get a full up to date inspection - cant hurt - some of the shade tree info you will get online can help with basics - but as a lifetime pro - I would never do a diagnosis over the phone or the net - unless I have a vehicle history at the shop - even then .....

 

You might want to read the whole thread lol

 

ya and now he is a “lifetime pro”….

 

I finally got back in contact with my case manager and explained that the dealer told us we have to open a new case regarding the valve cover and timing cover gasket leaks. He reopened our current case with the rear differential and is gonna reach out to the dealer again to get some clarification on the oil leaks from the gaskets. We dropped off the car on December 9th for the rear differential and haven't heard back, so I'm assuming the repair is still ongoing. I'd rather wait and have them take their time while doing the repair correctly, especially since we have a loaner car.

 

When I get a "loaner" I tend to really chill out.
Means the work is getting done and I'm not putting miles on my own vehicle.
Hopefully you'll get the gasket leak covered, fully would be great but any amount would be a plus.

 

We got the car back at the end of last week. My girlfriend is very happy to be back in it after driving a hybrid CX-50 loaner. I forgot to have her ask what the dealer's warranty is on the repair of the rear differential, but I'm assuming it's the standard 1 year/12k miles.

Now as far as the two gaskets go, I was told it's basically just a very tiny seepage noticed on both the valve cover and timing cover that's not an immediate issue. My case manager spoke to his point of contact at the dealership throughout this case, and they said it would be best to just keep getting the car serviced and let the dealer build up documentation/history on the car. The case manager also said that if I were to submit another after warranty request on the two gaskets, Mazda would be considering any other goodwill repairs they've done to the car and how recent they were (aka taking off $4300 on our rear differential job we just had done last week). I was also told that if we submitted something and Mazda denied it, that would be a final decision and we would be on our own. I'm gonna hold off for now and just keep a close eye on the car. I'd rather let the car have a better chance later down the road for any goodwill, as long as nothing serious occurs with the oil leaks.