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Low temp. of cooling liquid.

Old Jan 16, 2023 | 06:31 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Callisto
Walter unfortunately they did not print the TDCs so I can comment on what they found. But it is interesting about the battery. You mentioned this is a lease, maybe you should read the lease agreement and see if there is something pertaining to the battery. If not, then I would have to join your side and wonder why they did not warranty the battery out?
The only thing I do suggest is that you get a replacement battery asap if the dealership still will not cover it. There is stubborn and then there is logical reasoning...that is that a battery failing can cause electrical problems that now because that service order show you declined getting the battery replaced could cause you some challenging issues when you turn the vehicle in at the end of the lease?
I think a battery going bad causing other problems is a stretch. I've had a few batteries go bad in the +55 years I've been driving/riding. They always first manifested a problem status by slowly cranking. We've had some pretty cold weather recently, including a week or so of consecutive single digit temperature days. No issue starting in those conditions. And unless I'm mistaken, once a vehicle starts, it electrically pretty much runs off the alternator.

I'm not saying "impossible", but I think it's unlikely. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Walter
 
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 09:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow
I think a battery going bad causing other problems is a stretch. I've had a few batteries go bad in the +55 years I've been driving/riding. They always first manifested a problem status by slowly cranking. We've had some pretty cold weather recently, including a week or so of consecutive single digit temperature days. No issue starting in those conditions. And unless I'm mistaken, once a vehicle starts, it electrically pretty much runs off the alternator.

I'm not saying "impossible", but I think it's unlikely. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Walter
On the newer cars with the computers, a bad battery can cause all kinds of problems and throw all kinds of codes. Those computers need a certain level of power and if the power is too low, the computers go crazy. On my Jeep when the battery got low, my windshield wipers started running even though they were not turned on, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and a number of features were disabled. Even after the battery was replaced, I had to take it to the dealer to clear the codes to reactivate a number of features, including the cruise control (both normal and adaptive), the sensors for cars in the blind spots and the sensors for ther emergency stop feature.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 07:57 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by schmieg
On the newer cars with the computers, a bad battery can cause all kinds of problems and throw all kinds of codes. Those computers need a certain level of power and if the power is too low, the computers go crazy. On my Jeep when the battery got low, my windshield wipers started running even though they were not turned on, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and a number of features were disabled. Even after the battery was replaced, I had to take it to the dealer to clear the codes to reactivate a number of features, including the cruise control (both normal and adaptive), the sensors for cars in the blind spots and the sensors for ther emergency stop feature.
As I've mentioned: the only codes the tech mentioned were something like "low battery charging"- no other codes, and everything else in the car is working as it should. It just take real long to warm up to an operating temp that maxes at around 160F.

Walter
 
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 09:29 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow
I think a battery going bad causing other problems is a stretch. I've had a few batteries go bad in the +55 years I've been driving/riding. They always first manifested a problem status by slowly cranking. We've had some pretty cold weather recently, including a week or so of consecutive single digit temperature days. No issue starting in those conditions. And unless I'm mistaken, once a vehicle starts, it electrically pretty much runs off the alternator.

I'm not saying "impossible", but I think it's unlikely. We'll see what happens tomorrow.

Walter
The OBDII ECU controlled vehicle from at least 2002 and to present need the battery in the electrical system as an intracule part of maintaining the system running properly specifically the engine operations. PERIOD!
OBDII came around in 1995 and the needed for a stabilized and constant voltage supply was necessary even back then. Unfortunately, batteries were predominantly made from 100% new material unlike now that many "NEW" batteries are from recycled batteries. Yes when they are broken down and sold to battery manufactures there is no current guidelines or regulation that require battery manufactures to divulge this. That is sad because many problems on ECU OBDII and CAN-bus are related to a poor condition state of a battery.
We get about 10-15 vehicles a week into the shop and it has been a common practice (since I manage and assign the work) to test the batteries for free. More than 1/2 fail the test. We do 2 tests with 2 different battery load meters. We do not try to sell the custom on a new battery (unless necessary for the service repairs caused by a failing battery) but do report it to them as well note it on the service order.
You should be installing a NEW battery ASAP and deal with who is going to pay for it later before you are the cause of other problems that definitely at this point would likely NOT be covered under any warranty!
ASE

Originally Posted by wpbarlow
As I've mentioned: the only codes the tech mentioned were something like "low battery charging"- no other codes, and everything else in the car is working as it should. It just take real long to warm up to an operating temp that maxes at around 160F.

Walter

The technician or mechanic (they and you were not clear who worked on your MAZDA) IMHO should have noted if anywhere on personal notes what ALL the DTC's were relevant or not to the concern? To be clear this is NOT required by MAZDA and is simply useful information to the person that was assigned to check any vehicle for a problem to support their conclusion as to the service correction needed?

ASE
 

Last edited by Callisto; Jan 17, 2023 at 09:33 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 09:50 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Callisto
The OBDII ECU controlled vehicle from at least 2002 and to present need the battery in the electrical system as an intracule part of maintaining the system running properly specifically the engine operations. PERIOD!
OBDII came around in 1995 and the needed for a stabilized and constant voltage supply was necessary even back then. Unfortunately, batteries were predominantly made from 100% new material unlike now that many "NEW" batteries are from recycled batteries. Yes when they are broken down and sold to battery manufactures there is no current guidelines or regulation that require battery manufactures to divulge this. That is sad because many problems on ECU OBDII and CAN-bus are related to a poor condition state of a battery.
We get about 10-15 vehicles a week into the shop and it has been a common practice (since I manage and assign the work) to test the batteries for free. More than 1/2 fail the test. We do 2 tests with 2 different battery load meters. We do not try to sell the custom on a new battery (unless necessary for the service repairs caused by a failing battery) but do report it to them as well note it on the service order.
You should be installing a NEW battery ASAP and deal with who is going to pay for it later before you are the cause of other problems that definitely at this point would likely NOT be covered under any warranty!
ASE




The technician or mechanic (they and you were not clear who worked on your MAZDA) IMHO should have noted if anywhere on personal notes what ALL the DTC's were relevant or not to the concern? To be clear this is NOT required by MAZDA and is simply useful information to the person that was assigned to check any vehicle for a problem to support their conclusion as to the service correction needed?

ASE

I visited the dealership this morning and it was basically a restating of our positions last week. Re battery replacement- they're pretty much saying it's Mazda's "fault" because they won't warranty a battery unless it shows as defective. Apparently, their service report that clearly states the battery is bad is not enough.


I hear what you're saying about potential problems- but the tech/mechanic (don't know what his formal title is) and the service manager say the car is "operating within parameters" even though they won't explicitly say what the normal operating temperature should be or acknowledge that 160F (at maximum) is pretty low. In their words- "as long as no problem codes are being thrown, there is no problem". Pretty robotic response imo.

Anyway, they are going to check the car again Thursday.

So again, we'll see.

Walter.

PS: what's really puzzling to me is that because I'd like to buy the car, they're forgoing years of service that I'd use them for; not to mention the reputational damage.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:19 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow
I

Walter.

PS: what's really puzzling to me is that because I'd like to buy the car, they're forgoing years of service that I'd use them for; not to mention the reputational damage.
Walter, so I understand this thought but it is still a privately owned business and if MAZDA is not going to reimbursed them than it is profit loss. Keep in mind you are a valued customer but not their only one. This is not to say that you are not a valued customer but if they gave parts away to all their customers on the speculation that Mazda will cover them for the cost or that you "MAY" continue to patronize them by future vehicle purchase or leasing may not be good business planning?

Foir the all-knowing DIY , yes I know that Mazda as with most auto manufactures has an allowance account for a set amount of subject to dealers' discretionary parts and service replacement that can be credit off that account. But if that credit is already used up then its back to the guidelines specifically set for service and parts replacement under Mazda warraty guidelines.
 

Last edited by Callisto; Jan 17, 2023 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:30 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Callisto
Walter, so I understand this thought but it is still a privately owned business and if MAZDA is not going to reimbursed them than it is profit loss. Keep in mind you are a valued customer but not their only one. This is not to say that you are not a valued customer but if they gave parts away to all their customers on the speculation that Mazda will cover them for the cost or that you "MAY" continue to patronize them by future vehicle purchase or leasing may not be good business planning?
I guess we'll agree to disagree. They are 10 minutes from me (next closest is 40 minutes away), I like the car, and have only used them for service. So future business (especially considering the car will obviously continue to age and require some level of maintenance/service in upcoming years) is practically assured.
As an fyi, the last vehicle I bought new is a 2002 VW Passat- which I still have- always serviced at the dealer until last year- so 18 years of maintenance after the warranty expired.

On the Open Road paperwork it explicitly says "Our goal is to provide EXCELLENT service" Emphasis on excellent is theirs. That has not been my experience so far.

Walter
 
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 11:12 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by wpbarlow
I guess we'll agree to disagree. They are 10 minutes from me (next closest is 40 minutes away), I like the car, and have only used them for service. So future business (especially considering the car will obviously continue to age and require some level of maintenance/service in upcoming years) is practically assured.
As an fyi, the last vehicle I bought new is a 2002 VW Passat- which I still have- always serviced at the dealer until last year- so 18 years of maintenance after the warranty expired.

On the Open Road paperwork it explicitly says "Our goal is to provide EXCELLENT service" Emphasis on excellent is theirs. That has not been my experience so far.

Walter
LOL OK
you have exhausted my helping you ... good luck!

You may notice at times in some responses and because you are a relatively new member I end with the ASE?

I am a certified(current) ASE Master Technician L1 & L2 for over 30 years. I have also *owned and operated and work for many aspects relating to the Automotive Industry.
Basically, I am used to members on dozens of forums often disagreeing with my responses.

* Read if if anything else your personal entertainment value!
What do you do or have done for a living - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
 
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Old Jan 19, 2023 | 06:26 PM
  #39  
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As promised- an update.

The dealer resolved the issue today under warranty. Attached is a copy of the work order.

Good on them for making this right eventually, They earned a customer.

.



As an aside, earlier today I came upon a rather extensive thread in another Mazda forum that provides some additional and specific information re this problem. Here's a link towards the end of it

https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/2019-c...3874333/page-5

Thanks to everyone.
Walter



.
 

Last edited by wpbarlow; Jan 19, 2023 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2024 | 12:44 PM
  #40  
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hello tomek159- I’m having same issue with my Mazda CX5 petrol.
How did you resolve the issue?

thanks

Originally Posted by tomek159
Hello,
I am a new owner of a Mazda CX-5 (2,5 petrol AWD, 2019, from USA) and need advice / help from experienced users

For the second time (2 weeks apart), the "engine check" icon and a fault in the engine control system appeared.
After connecting to the computer, the error "coolant temperature too low" appeared.
After erasing the error, everything was fine for 2 weeks and it reappeared yesterday.

I wonder what the problem may be.
When I start a cold engine in the morning, within 1-2 minutes the engine heats up to approx. 140-160 degrees F (American version), i.e. to approx. 65-75 degrees C. and the air supply warms up nicely. This temperature holds, unless I push a little harder, then the temperature briefly rises to around 170 degrees F (almost 80 degrees C) and drops back to around 150 degrees F. Outside it's around 3 degrees.

This error appeared to me in the morning with a cold engine 2 weeks ago, and yesterday during the day (earlier it had traveled several dozen km).

Generally, nothing is happening to the car, the power is ok, the engine speed is ok, only this message.
Have any of you had a similar situation?

Next week I am leaving the car to the mechanic so that the computer can measure the temperature, but out of curiosity I asked the Dealership about the prices of the parts (temperature sensor and thermostat).
What was my surprise when I read that the thermostat costs EUR 570.
Are there any cheaper alternatives? This price scared me, because thermostats for other brands cost not more than half of this price.

Thank you in advance for the help of forum members.
 
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