A theme on this forum

 

No not really.....

You started a thread your question was answered with GOOD information that can be helpful to not only you but other that come to this forum and are wanting the same information.

 

Actually yes, really.
It matters not, for you sir, are undeniable.

 

Whatever you get I would check the composition of the material regarding any choice you find. The moisture that comes from most emission-controlled vehicles is rather highly corrosive to most cheaply manufactured tail pipes available aftermarket.


The only thing I can add is that it appears you are going for aesthetic value so basically it is your personal preference and not really a choice of what other used because personal taste in what look good varies tremendously.? As for pipe size the factory is about 2/14 but to install any tail pipe ends you would need to cut the factory tip and that exact pipe size can vary slightly from just over 2 inch up to 2 1/4 with a straight 90 degree cut.

 

I have some anecdotal experience. A long while back I had an Eclipse turbo with a full turbo back exhaust. For the tip a friend recommended i try a version of Rustoleum that was high temp spray used for BBQs. So I bought the high temp primer and black matte (they have satin and gloss) spray and gave it a go. Worked well for me and never had an issue with rust or pitting or anything. About 3 years and about 35K miles. The tip was welded on and not bolted like you can get. Not sure how much difference it would make but I think they are chrome plated. Again with the coats of primer and matte black, it held up well and wasn't expensive. Of course ymmv.
Good luck

 

Yes that heat paint can work well if it is cured as per the directions. However, it is not a coating that will prevent damage caused by the startup moisture in exhaust system.
contacting Rust oleum direct they will also tell you this.
However I use Rustoleum paint products for many projects, but I also use VHT and MOROSO depending on the application and the service protection they provide each is deferent.
Read the application direction or contact any of them direct for better advise of use.

I should also mention that the formulas from the 70's , 80's and 90's and even into the 20's have changed so what some might have used successfully in the past may not work as good today!

Just to preference my use of rattle can paints. I use them pretty much every week for one thing or another. 
Most any material that will run over 2100F "MUST" be carefully prepped before painting to ensure a good adhesion to gain good results when applied heat and other environmental protection like rain snow, dirty roads, treated roads etc.> Fo the most cases they do not last well on exhaust system parts without occasional touch ups even with the best prep and painting techniques.

 

Thank you sir.

 

Unfortunately, most people remember past projects wrong and more or less like they would want to remember them. The flaw was that he mentioned being welded. That means that some of the paint had to be removed. The welder would have also created heat flash which would have burned some of th paint close to the clean and welded area. Alos 3 year in service and never flacking on a DIY hand painted exhaust tip ... "Itsa Mirical" LOL
I hope that other reading realizes the success of rattle canning is more labor intensive then described by many. To have had the paint adhere the tail pipe would have been needed to be sanded or better yet bead or sand blasted. Then clean with a something like acetone. The primer would have had to be cured before the topcoat which means priming and doing some form of heat curing and waiting about 203 days before applying the topcoat, Then curing the topcoat before a full service with good results for a rattle canned tail pipes that may last at least 12-15 months. But even the best prepped surfaces Rattle canning exhaust parts there will be some paint that will simply burn off or get contaminated and flake off.

ALL the Ratte companies will state most all of what I just posted. But hey feeling froggy go for it , after all it is your ride!

 

Actually it is my wife's. She replaced her 2017 3 Hatch Grand Touring. It only had 36 K miles on it, but it was starting to have electric issues, Cruise didn't work (Fuse in tact), radio was changing channels on its own and the power seat was intermittent in operation. I tried to get her to get and Audi Q3 but the Mazda was over 10k cheaper and was actually a better value for what she needed.
With that in mind she loves the Carbon Edition and the Black Accents and Red Interior. But! She doesn't like the chrome on the lower side window trim, or the Chrome Badges or Exhaust Tips.
Getting the chrome on the lower window surround wrapped professionally next week. Since starting this thread went up the the Exhaust Shop who installed my Cat Back on my Audi, seeing him again tomorrow on what we can do CORRECTLY on the black tips.
The badges however will be a tough go. I believe they are all pinned. If that is indeed the issue, i will remove and have painted professionally and reapply.
My Audi has all Black Trim and badges.

 

The Audi looks SHARP for sure. I am not into black wheel personally think they should be on a truck instead of a car but that is my taste.
The best answer you have had so far regarding the exhaust tips is to go to your EXHAUST SHOP !




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