Hi all, I own a 2013 CX-5 Sport. The original master window switch part number is KF33-66 350. Unfortunately after almost 10 years of ownership, its side mirror switch broke down - so I can't open the side mirros from its folded state, adjust them up and down, nada. All the window switches still work ok, just that. I tried to have an electrician take a look for a possible repair similar to what Felix Dan did with his:
Whatever diode that was replaced in his unit though, the electrician here failed to find which one that is. So I tried looking for a replacement part and unfortunately, the local stores and even the dealerships don't sell them anymore.

So I looked online, and ended up buying a replacement with model number KR11-66 350. The dimensions and connectors are all the same. All the existing functions work the same, and I can adjust my side mirrors again. The only difference is that this KR11 has the door lock/unlock switch which I would now like to activate. I reviewed the wiring diagrams through this site . Using a multimeter, I was able to confirm that all the wires matches what's in my unit, except of course, for the door lock / unlock switch. It looks like 2M is the pin I want, but compared to the voltages stated, I'm getting almost a 12v hot reading with ignition on, with the reading not changing regardless of whether I'm pressing either lock or unlock switch. Am I looking at the correct pin? If not, where can I potentially tap the wires to enable the door lock / unlock switch with this replacement? If it helps, my door lock switch integrated to the door handle locks and unlocks all of the car's doors. I'm thinking maybe I'd have to tap through the actuator, but wanted to confirm first whether I'm on track in terms of the pin to tap to from this master switch before pulling down parts further.

 

This has been resolved. Lurking through the forums I've found this link:

https://www.drive2.ru/l/529290330156040211

Credits to NewFate, and Google Translate. Took some bit of understanding because of how much Google Translate can go, but essentially the pin you want to tap into as mentioned in the post is 1E on the master power window switch.



This is showing as N/A or not used in the service manual. Next is pin 3F from the RCBM. I guess the last part that's being said is how he figured out not having to run the wires from the RCBM through the front door to activate the door lock switch. There's actually a wire from that RCBM pin that connects to the driver side door actuator lock assembly. That wire is shown below:



For testing purposes I just had the wire connect through temporarily. When it was successful, I salvaged an unused pin from another plug and used that to secure the additional wire. Works like a charm.

 

Hello,
I know this is an old thread and issue. I am suffering the very same issue with my door lock switch. When I pressed the door lock switch on the driver side, all the doors including the rear trunk locked, with an exception of the driver side door. First, I thought the lock actuator was bad, so I replaced that with a brand new lock actuator from Mazda and I that didn't do the trick. So, I replaced the master windows and lock switch, which also from Mazda and that wasn't it. I finally found some threads online discussing the free Forscan software that can read the error codes for Mazda and Ford vehicles, so I downloaded the software and bought the OBDCII reader and I was able to read the errors. It came back with 2 errors, B1172 & B126A, both being mentioned about the RBCM or points to the RBCM is the culprit. I was looking around to find an used one since the Forscan can read the binaries files from the RBCM and rewrite it back to the RBCM with no issue. I was just about to buy an used one, until I saw your post.

Sorry, but you lost me a bit about the wire from the master door switch to the actuator power connection. So, do I run a wire from the master switch (E1) to the actuator power connection 3F? How exactly did you solved this again?

Please help!!

Thanks,
Jay