Knowing Mazda NZ's attitude to diesels, I would stay clear of anything diesel pre 2017.

 

Hi, I need some help with a blown turbo and getting Mazda Australia to replace it.
I'm in Perth, Australia.

Quick summary

1. 2013 CX5, Full service history, primarily Mazda stamps, 160,000kms.
2. November 2020 - Engine replaced @ 145,000kms by Mazda Australia
3. March 2021 - 10,000km service on new engine
4. April 2021 - P2262 P0471 - Exhaust Gas Pressure sensor fault and Turbo doesn't kick in. Vehicle has very little power (not limp mode).
5. Mazda Australia agree to replace sensor
6. Dealer explains to me: Turbo isn't always pressurising. There is shaft wear and scoring on the fins
7. Repair will cost $6,500 and Mazda Australia say they won't cover it because the car is now 8 years old

Dealer & Mazda Australia won't answer the following questions:

• Is the car safe to drive?
• If I replace the Turbo at an independent mechanic will that void the 2 year warranty on the engine?

Mazda Australia are shutting me down saying they won't cover it.

I do know that other people have had their turbo replaced at the same time as the engine as they have shared their service receipts
Someone has told me, but I am unable to confirm that there is a technical bulletin covering the Turbo that lasts 7 years and 120,000kms

Question:
- How can I take this further? I'm thinking of small claims court, but I think I may need an expert witness to examine the car, and its very hard to find one.
- I believe the turbo should have been replaced at the same time as the engine.

 

I'm somewhat in the same boat as you. I had my engine at 160,000 replaced last December (2020) and have also been having low boost, lack of power and high fuel consumption. I'm just waiting to find out if my turbo is also excessively worn. It's fair to assume that if you had the same oil blockages that killed the motor in the first place, is the same lack of oil flow that feeds the turbo. I wasn't happy the turbo wasn't replaced at the same time also.

Mine blew more injectors after the engine replacement which they did cover under the warranty for the new engine. But the fuel economy has not improved (about 20% more than it used to be).

With your issue. YouTube has a number of videos on the turbo flow diverter valve pin failing and the diverter valve comes off and gets stuck. There is also a likelihood that the flow diverter hosing is cracked on the solenoid.

Some ideas to go looking at... But I'd say if there is excessive play in the turbo shaft... That's been oil starvation to the turbo.

 

Similar to other CX-5 owners, I've had a new brake boost pump, camshaft and turbos rebuilt. The camshaft was done because I got a DTC of "No Pressure in Cylinder 2"! turned out to be a valve stuck open, but the exhaust camshaft was heavily worn also.. the soot on the inlet manifold was about 5mm deep.. glad I got the chance to clean this out... So the valves have been replaced and head skimmed for good measure.. Interestingly my car is 2014 and outside the supposedly affected VIN group for camshaft wear (total BS). The Mazda dealer would have bankrupted me for this lot, thankfully my Dad is a retired mechanic and has been undertaking all of the labour for nought..

My latest issue is the apparent overheating / coolant overflow / spraying coolant in engine bay etc.. anyway, I installed an OBD dongle and app so that I can see oil and coolant temps, and what's interesting about my coolant spray job is that the temps were not crazy high when I witnessed it. Oil was around 70-80C, coolant was around 90C. I pulled over because it was unusual to have such a delta between the two (usually the oil and coolant temps trend much closer). Spoke to my Dad and he theorised that it was pressure, not just temperature that caused the coolant overflow to fill up and spurt out everywhere. I've ordered a new radiator cap since this seems to be the obvious thing, but my Dad wondered about the EGR cooler (since this is cooled via the engine coolant reservoir). Dad removed the EGR cooler, put it in a bucket or water and pressure tested the coolant side, (blocked off one coolant pipe and put an air line hose on the other).. air bubbles came out of the exhaust pipe, which isn't supposed to happen Mazda!.. Basically this means two things.. 1) The EGR cooler is leaking coolant into my inlet manifold.. could explain my coolant levels going down and engine stuttering at cruise/coasting.. 2) My radiator is being pressurised by the exhaust gas.. could explain the 'overheating' coolant overflow/spurt out..

Picked up a 2nd hand EGR cooler for £40.. should be fitting it at the weekend.. hopefully the head gasket is still okay... Good old Dad.. I have no doubt that Mazda would not have found this.. I called them and they instantly quoted me £280 for diagnostic.. but I dare say they would have been off the mark, since there isn't a DTC for this. I love my CX-5 but I guess you have to, with the long list of issues I've had. If I didn't have support from family, I reckon I'd be £6k down and that's probably what the car is worth (127k miles btw).

Hope you all have better luck with yours..
Shaun

 

Do a TK test immediately $50-$100
your dad is right.
Coolant spray can be combustion gases pushing the coolant out backwards through the filler box.
if the radiator is empty the temp sensors don't work. The filler box will look full.

If it fails, then get your service book. If an independent (non chain) mechanic has done servicing you'll need proof that you have used an ACEA C3 oil at each service interval. Dealer will photograph your service book if you need a new engine.

 

I just got back from test driving the petrol 2.0, 2.5 and the diesel (I'm in NZ). I had pretty much decided to go with a 2017+ diesel.

Seems like there are a few more reasonably priced higher trim diesels around than petrol. Plus I enjoyed driving the diesel much more.

But reading through this has me a little less convinced. As I understand it going for the new 2017 on means I have less to worry about is that the case?

I'm a bit out of town, but not that far. A standard trip into town is around 25km each way. I'd likely drive that 2-3 times a week. Plus a trip or three to the local shop (which is only 1km each way).

Is that just a bad idea with the diesel?

 

Amjet

 

We had injector issues after 1 week with the replacement engine.
trying to work something out with mazda Australia and the dealership now.
Any tips would be appreciated

 

Sounds like a decent run each way. Round town/short trips are no good. Highway / motorway trips are good.

 

We had a 2014 2.2 into the workshop last year - customer had mechanical warranty but had done nothing to ensure they kept it current (no WOF, rego, RUC or servicing done). Insisted I contact the insurer on their behalf to try & get them to accept the engine replacement needed. Insurer was great but naturally declined to accept the claim. General chatting about the situation & he said they had had to pay out on '100s' of these claims already. He mentioned that it was around $15k to do the job properly. We'd quoted close to $10k and were being very careful to cover everything, he also said that his company were now refusing to cover this vehicle for claims.