Wow, lots of go-fast stuff in that Cruiser!

 

So, I am reading this that Mazda's ECU in the SkyActiv engines will advance the timing sufficiently to accommodate significantly higher octane than 87. I find this interesting as my untuned MX5 recommends 91, but will run fine on 87 (I run 93 as my local options are 87, 89 and 93), but there is no such recommendation with the CX5. Is that true will all ECU's today? If so, then the old rule that increasing octane beyond the recommended value will not increase power is obsolete, at least with some manufacturers' models. To quote the German Soldier on Laugh-In, "Vewy interesting." I think I just age dated myself.

 

Callisto's dyno pulls confirms my "seat-of-the-pants" accelerometer experience. I do have an accelerometer and should try it on 91 0ctane and pure 100 octane. When 'Vegas' scorching heat wave is over maybe I'll try it.

We have to remember that horsepower AT THE WHEELS is lower than HP off the crankshaft due to frictional losses. I don't know if dynamometers are programmed to account for that loss. Plus few of them are set up to do 4 wheel testing.

 

ya wow in the mid 100f there in Vegas . We are almost to 101f today.

I run in all me cars a Auto meter D-Pic. Mostly for my benefit to learn to dial in my vehicles as well on other then MAZDA forums it helps blow MYTHs and BS from some members. HEHEHE!
Don't forget when testing that results will not be as accurate or maybe what you expect if you dont install a new set of spark plugs.

About DYNO's...
I have posted this many times and IMHO based on my hands on experience is one of the best written informational on the subject.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...o-lying-44751/


The D-pic shows real world results of power output. Generally from what I have documented between a Chassis Dyno properly set up and a D-Pic is about 6%(-/+3%) less comparatively.


Powering up the D-Pic and going through self calibration adjusting for its location (parked in my garage LOL )

 

See Posts #2 and #4 in this thread:

https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63938

 

TRUE CONFESSION:
I have been eyeing the Cork Sport FULL turbo pipe and intercooler replacement. I don't trust myself to do the install as I did for the simple down pipe replacement. So an install at Findlay Customs here in Henderson would run me about $300. for labor with my "frequent customer discount". Findlay Customs is a high end customizer that deals mostly in exotic cars (Porsches on up through Bentleys, etc.) They have done 3 cars with front end full plastic film covers ($2,000. for my CX-5) and a bunch of electronics stuff and everything was well done.

So say $600. roughly for the parts and install B/C Nevada has no sales tax on labor. If the Cork Sport down pipe install improvement in throttle response is any indicator this full turbo upgradeshould definitely improve my horsepower. The CX-5 2.5 L. turbo already has (in my 2019) 310 lb. ft. of torque.

Whaddya think CX-5 fans? Am I throwing good money away. Should I instead invest it in a PS4 and Grand Prix game.with all the haptic-enabled goodies?

 

I don’t get the math. If the labor is $300, the new intercooler is $500 and the piping kit is $300, how does that equal $600? I must be misreading your post.

 

Those sheets are what we call in the business RETAIL DATA
If you understood anything I have posted about DYNO runs or at least research this a little more maybe you would not have posted your last response?
IN over 3 decades I have NEVER posted my DYNO DATA on my personal vehicles, why... because of responses like yours. All those do is set a pace for some that have no clue about DYNO testing. Those sheets posted and the SAE smoothing says it all.

 

Honestly if you are not doing most if not all the installation your self I recomend to leave the engine as it is and think about Brakes and suspension.
At some point you will need to have a Performance ECU Calibration done to tie all your engine GO-FAST-GOODIES together. I can tell you if you are not the one installing and fully understanding all the parts , should something happen you will not be able to have the average service shop help you. $$$$$

Besides the next true step should be a fully ported head (aprox. $3000) and NOT a larger IC.

 

For a little background, I'm a Porsche Club driving instructor, have been for many years, and successfully tracked a highly modified Porsche 914 along with various 911's. The first advice i always give students is to spend your money on driver training (track time) learning the ins and outs of handling, braking, etc before spending money making your car go faster. Most people can't get 70% of any car. After you can get 85% out of your car then its time to put money into go faster items. Tires, brakes, suspension first. If you can't stop or turn it, you don't want to go any faster. Then add more horsepower. Unless you are a drag racer, then skip the advice and go for the horsepower. Buying horsepower is a very slippery slope.