After installing a Cork Sport oil catch can, a drop-in K&N air filter and stiffer Cork Sport boost tube (turbo to intercooler I really feel I've upgraded thing as much as I want given the cost of a complete turbo pipes and intercooler install.

According to YouTube's "Engineering Explained" video on drop-in air filters the K&N should give my 2.5 L. turbo engine at least another 10 HP. And the much stiffer CorkSport boost tube definitely gives me better throttle response, enough so that I was surprised at how much difference it made.

I emptied the CS oil catch can at 7,800 miles and got 1/3 cup of brown, foul-looking liquid. That's 1/3 cup of that crap that did NOT get to the intake valves to coke up on their back side. So when I do get my dealer to use BG fluid to clean those intake valves at 60,000 miles they should have much less to clean off them. It illustrates that MAZDA's air/oil separator likely does not do much but I'd need some expert tests to determine that for sure. But for now that air/oil separator is just another item that helps keep the intake valves cleaner.
Eric B.

 

In reality, many independent tests have shown about zero power improvement with the K&N drop-in filter over a new OEM filter. Some sites will compare the K&M drop-in to well-used OEM filters, but the improvement is usually minimal regardless. Replacing your OEM filter regularly works fine, but if you want to wash the K&M filter regularly that works too. What really works is a conical K&N filter due to the greatly increased filtration area on the latter. Regardless, the K&M does not filter the air as well as the OEM filter does. I’ve used the K&N on many vehicles, but just because….

 

Carpe,
I'm looking at a fairly thorough test on YouTube in "Engineering Explained" for HP improvement with a drop-in K&N filter. That is what I'm referencing. WHAT SOURCES, EXACTLY, ARE YOU REFERENCING? I'd like to wee them myself as, I'd guess, would other readers here.

I've use K&N conical filters on my previous tuned '97 Maxima and 2007 Prius v wagon. The induction noise is something I won't trade for a few extra HP.
AS for "excessive engine wear" with a K&N filter, as some claim, I have a compression tester and at 80,000 miles made it a practice to randomly check 4 cylinders for compression. Since I use ONLY synthetic motor oil I have found absolutely no loss in compression beyond what may be expected at that mileage. And in fact my compression in 5 vehicles showed that compression was at or nearly at factory standards after 80,000 miles.
Eric B.

 

I’ve had K&N conical filters on four different vehicles and the oil tests show plenty of silica. It is so easy to “manipulate” dyno tests that they are pretty worthless when comparing small increases or decreases in horsepower. But it sounds like no matter what you read or hear or watch, your mind is already made up. It’s your money…..have a nice day.

 

Not to start a debate or argument so please do your in-depth and empirical research and DATA before emotionally responding to my post.

Not sure who those independent testers are considering K&N has one of the most expensive and high tech R&D facility 2nd to no-one for designing, engineering and testing intake filters and filter systems for engines?
The test results that K&N post on their website for their product line if duplicated testing is done can and does equal the results K&N reports. FACT!
The conical filter will decrease an engine performance with any vehicle that has the complete plastic under guard.
It is a misconception that increased filtration will increase the CFM of a engine. Increased filtration area only effects a larger area to be filter by the controlled incoming air.
There is no testing accurately ever done comparing any OEM filter showing better filtration qualities. In fact K&N invites any filter manufacture to bring their filter to be publicly tested and showing the results. Over the years only a couple of companies tried that and then you dont see it anymore....hmm wonder why? Maybe K&N works as claimed?

 

FACTUAL SOURCES "Carpe", factual sources!

Callisto,
Yep, K&N does perform. "In K&N we trust" (BTW, my MAZDA dealer makes me change engine oil (full synthetic) every 5,000 miles "because Las Vegas", so even more engine protection.)

*But 5 gallons of 100 octane gas with 10 galloons of 91 octane gas in a 15 gallon tank DOES produce results. And once, when I felt flush, I filled an empty tank with 100 octane gas and acceleration was even better. I should have attached my accelerometer and I may do so in future testing with 1/2 tank of all 91 horse pee "western premium" to a 1/2 tank of pure 100 octane gas. I'll have to do it when the temperature is the same for both tests, perhaps in late September when temps are in the low 80s, high 70s.
Somehow MAZDA made the fuel map in the ECU so it takes advantage of very high octane gas. I was surprised. And I'm grateful the REBEL gas stations here have 100 octane gas - even if it is $8.00 a gallon.

Eric B.

 

Eric its all about the fun at times modding. Glad you like your results and posted about it!


LOL First YES DYNO can be manipulated... but a HONEST DYNO OPERATOR will set the delta correctly. Oh...and K&N freely shows all the set up DELTA when they do challenge testing. Also you can ask for the perimeters of the DYNO from them for their test results they advertise about. Like I said if you duplicate the testing that K&N did to post their results you will get the same results.

Hmm here is a strange thing, I have posted several oil analysis and none showed increased silica levels from the factory OEM intake and filter? LOL
Dude really seems like the only mind made up is yours and what you think is empirical data which in reality empirical nonsense? IMHO

 

Most do not understand how the Engine Control Unit works. Even less have ever had a vehicle that they adjusted the ECU calibrations. By using the highest octane up to 100 octane gasoline you simply insure that your engine will come very close to producing the claimed engine performance levels Mazda prints in their specification's.
I have already performed at least a bakers dozen DYNO runs duplicating my first DELTAS for accuracy of comparing specifically what octane is generating the best overall output. I also ran my friends Mazda 3 and CX-5 for fun and as a base line comparison to my mods vs stock. Its all the same results fuel octane matters more then what is being talked about on forums pertaining to MAZDA SKYACTIV engines. They flat do not make close to the power output using 87 octane fuel and only close with 91 octane. I ran straight Union 76 100 octane Race fuel and can happily report it was nice to start very close to what MAZDA prints about the engines power output.


Did I tell you we came down and stayed 3 days in your town a while ago. WOW... downtown all the pot smokers.......LOL

 

Callisto,
".... downtown are all pot smokers ...LOL" Yep and most of them are from out of town. It's a VERY laid back place in Fremont Street and even The Strip.

BTW, A few weeks ago, when I had almost 1/2 tank of 100 octane gas and 1/4 tank of 91 octane the smallest Volvo SUV had the temerity to race me - so I spanked him. That was very satisfying considering the price premium he paid for that neat little Volvo XC 40.

Very seldom do I participate in "Unsanctioned Acceleration Comparisons". (HONEST!)

 

I own a RED PT Cruiser .... I often get "cruised" by the local teens in their wanna-beee' ricers.... did I mention the PT is completely de-badged. LOL
Nothing very stock about the engine and even sports a race ported head with larger exhaust valves my own engineered retainers and Performance line camshafts , Big Wheel ported and polished Turbo Charger, Nitrous and few other go fast R goodies. Needless to say I always let them get the start and then they see my rear. LOL

Yes the tires completely hazed on launch and I ran out of road at 90 mph oh and Nitrous bottle was empty so no N2o all engine in this video. LOL