Late November, it became time to ensure that the Weber adapters were flat with no cracks and re-seal the adapters. In 2011 when I had rough running after removing the carburetor in an engine refresh; so I made my own gaskets from rubberized sheet gasket because I didn't have any new gaskets or any available locally, and would've taken several days to order. So I used my homemade gaskets and purchased an adapter gasket set for future use. So I found the gasket kit, Redline Weber #99005.675



Surprisingly my adapter plates appeared to be pretty straight, but I did sand them using 180 wet/dry on a sheet of glass. There were no cracks from overtightening as I'd torqued them before as per Weber/Redline installation instructions. The carburetor mounting studs "might have" protruded and pushed the adapter up a hair, so I sanded that part smooth with the adapter surface.



I used Permatex Aviation on the new gaskets, a thin film.



I used 1/2" i.d. oil hose (left over from my VW) as a new hose from valve cover over to the underside of my air cleaner.

 

Looks good!

I have installed 8 to 10 Weber carburetors on these Mazda B2000 & B2200 trucks over the years.......after noticing and experiencing how some of the supplied bolts and studs will work loose over time, I now ALWAYS put a dab of RED LOCTITE on ALL of those bolts when performing a Weber swap. On the supplied carburetor STUDS, I will use red Loctite on the end of the studs that thread into the upper adapter plate only.......this way, when you go to remove the Weber for any reason, OR, tighten the NUTS holding down the carburetor, the studs will not loosen, or be tightened into the lower adapter plate, which can "lift" the upper adapter plate and cause a vacuum leak.

I know some will say to use BLUE LOCTITE instead of the RED.......I hardly ever use blue Loctite anymore.....on anything! After years of wrenching, I have found that the red Loctite is best for most applications where you want a bolt, stud, or nut to stay in place and not loosen until YOU want it to loosen! Red Loctite is NOT permanent! Fasteners can be removed and the threads cleaned very easily with a wire wheel on a bench grinder, or with a wire brush, and/or Tap & Die toolsets.

 

I left the 4 studs in place in the adapter, sanded the adapter bottom and any protruding studs flat on a sheet of glass.

Running fine.

Someday when the weather is nicer I'll remove the belts and the outer part of the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer and see what's really up with that.