Blower Motor Resistor
Can anyone tell me if its possible to repair these? Im having a hard time finding one from any auto parts store so i was wondering if its possible to solder the wire back together? thanks
No they get pretty hot so solder would melt. Usually they go out due to the blower motor drawing excessive amperage. Brush's worn out usually so check the motor closely as it will burn up a new resistor quick.
AutoZone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ll&totalPages=[I@188dd0c¤tPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=15 201160&parentId=cat30062&fromString=search&fromWhe re=null&filterByKeyWord=blower&categoryNValue=1529 9999&categoryDisplayName=Climate+Control&_requesti d=226076
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ll&totalPages=[I@188dd0c¤tPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=15 201160&parentId=cat30062&fromString=search&fromWhe re=null&filterByKeyWord=blower&categoryNValue=1529 9999&categoryDisplayName=Climate+Control&_requesti d=226076
You can visually check to see if the AC compressor clutch is actuating, the center part (not just the pulley) should be turning if the system is working correctly, like the AC clutch is getting voltage causing it to actuate the compressor.
You can test for voltage at the wires at the pressure swtich on the receiver-drier. If one has voltage (with system turned on) and the other doesn't, then there is not enough refrigerant pressure to actuate the switch. I'd advise away from trying to "jump" the wires there, even for a second, because "no refrigerant means no oil being circulated". A guage set and both high and low pressures with engine at 1500-2000 and AC running is required for usable diagnosis. If there's no refrigerant, then there's aleak that must be fixed. Personally, in the 15 years I've had my '88, I've had to replace a leaky evaporator and get a leaky high presure line to condenser repaired, as well as two compressors (Arizona).
You can test for voltage at the wires at the pressure swtich on the receiver-drier. If one has voltage (with system turned on) and the other doesn't, then there is not enough refrigerant pressure to actuate the switch. I'd advise away from trying to "jump" the wires there, even for a second, because "no refrigerant means no oil being circulated". A guage set and both high and low pressures with engine at 1500-2000 and AC running is required for usable diagnosis. If there's no refrigerant, then there's aleak that must be fixed. Personally, in the 15 years I've had my '88, I've had to replace a leaky evaporator and get a leaky high presure line to condenser repaired, as well as two compressors (Arizona).
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