Mazda BT 50 & Pickup Trucks While Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50

b2200 clutch

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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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Well i am having some trouble switching my truck into second, and third when accelerating and down into 2nd and 1st while de-celerating. It only happens when at higher rpm, and while it is cold, once it warms up it is alot better.

Just wondering what it would be??? Clutch or syncros or what??? Any ideas???
 
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Clutch master or slave cylinders or pilot bearing usually. Slight possibility of synchro/hug/sleeve problems.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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there was a leak from the slave cylinder so that has been replaced. I have also replaced the trans fluid.

I could try replacing the master cylinder if that might help

Are there any test i can do to try and figure outwhat te problem is without pulling it all apart too much
 
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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You can look under the dash where the master cylinder rod comes through the firewall for signs of fluid seeping from it. The master cylinder can also leak internally though. The master cylinder rod is threaded with a nut on it to lock it so can be adjusted some. You can check the slave cylinder by pulling the rubber boot back and if there is fluid in the boot the slave is leaking. Pilot bearings generally make noise when depressing the clutch.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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well i replaced the slave cuz it was leaking, and haven't notic a loss of fluid since so i am pretty sure the master isn't leaking. The peddle still feels good.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 08:26 AM
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Have someone press down the clutch pedal all the way as you are underneath looking at the release lever on the transmission (this is a ton safer if the engine ISN'T running). You need to see if the release lever on the transmission is moving all the way, and holds there when the pedal is held down. If not, then you have a hydraulics issue, like some air still in the system causing the lever not to move all the way. If that lever is moving all the way when pedal is pushed, then the issue would be in the bell housing or in the transmission. And if you haven't changed the transmission oil (gear oil, NOT ATF), this would be a great time to try that as well.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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thanks for the info i will give it a look this weekend (saturday is usually pretty slow i should be able to bring it in a bay then)

Also i changed the fluid about 2 weeks ago with no noticeble effect on shifting (the old oil was pretty black tho so i am glad i did)

So is a hydraulic issue something that would go away once the operating temp goes up??? Just wondering cuz it is only hard to shift when i first drive it, once everything warms up it is pretty much back to normal.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 10:35 PM
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If you put too thick an oil in a transmission it will be hard to shift cold. Once it warms up the fluid thins out.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by hixx
If you put too thick an oil in a transmission it will be hard to shift cold. Once it warms up the fluid thins out.
yep cheap gear oil cost me more in the end.
did the oil change in the summer last year with a cheap brand from canadian tire here.ended up changing it again to i think it was quaker state gear oil.
cheap stuff just seemed to keep the tranny engaged.would get a slight grind between shifts till it was warmed up.

watch for the grades as well.think the cheap one was an 80w90 and the quaker was 75w90.

API GL-4 or GL-5 80W-90 or 75W-90 gear lube is recommended
 
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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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I heard alot of people use 50 weight heady duty engine oil??? Is this a good idea???
 
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