I got a 97 mazda 626 with a 2.0 and everytime I stop the Idel get low shaking vibrating like its go stall out I dont no what to do please help..

 

Check for vacuum leaks.
Clean the throttle body.
Clean the EGR valve and EGR orifices at the mouth of the intake plenum.
Clean the nipple for the EGR vacuum hose on the back of the intake plenum.
Clean the IAC valve.
Clean the MAF sensor.
Clean the PCV valve.
Check the plugs and wires and, if you have them, the distributor cap and rotor. Heck, just replace them.

Use the proper products to clean the stuff.

You won't believe how nice a clean engine runs.

 

Me thinks we should copy the above list in a document, so we can copy and paste it for tomorrows problems. This is extremely popular!

 

Indeed, Noggin. It is so good we could post it ahead of time, just in case someone might ask.

I just fixed the typos in my original response.

 

Where can one find the instructions to all of the above cleaning tasks?

~HollywoodJackson~

 

Speaking from experience of my '92 Mazda 626:

The last task in the list "Check the plugs and wires and, if you have them, the distributor cap and rotor. Heck, just replace them.".
Remove the spark plugs and check them visually. There should be plenty of websites showing pictures of good/bad plugs, one of the first I found when I searched: NGK Spark Plugs USA


The second part, replacing spark wires, distributor cap and rotor, would require adjustment of the timing.
Remove spark wires (notice how they are installed) and remove the distributor cap (I could use a screwdriver, was fastened with 3 screws).
The contact surfaces and rotor will wear down with time. Carefully removing deposits could be enough but if you do not know when they were last replaced - replace them.
There seems to be atleast four variants of distributor cap, make sure you got matching ones:
Hitachi or Mitsubishi prior to 1994
Hitachi or Mitsubishi after 1994

Before removing distributor rotor mark how it is aligned. The distributor rotor could in my case be pulled straight out from the distributor. To install it just push the new one in. Reconnect everything (replace spark wires if you fancy).

Then for the ignition timing adjustment, you would need to:
- Find out what the timing mark (on the crankwheel) should be at when correctly aligned. In my case +12 degrees. Clean the timing marks (on the plastic cover for the timing belt) in case the scale is not visible.
- Run engine warm. Stop engine.
- jumper the GND and TEN pins of the DIAGNOSIS contact.
- loose the two bolts (in my case) which holds the distributor in place so that it can be moved by hand. Start engine.
- Use a timing lamp connected to spark wire #1 and rotate the distributor until the mark is seen at the correct place.
- Tighten the bolt most accessible to temporarily lock distributor in place.
- Check timing mark once again so things haven't moved.
- Shut of engine, remove jumper wire and tighten the distributor bolts.

Done

 

Ferret has done a nice job with his response.

you can also go to Youtube and type in "how to clean/test/check a ________."

you don't have to be make and model specific.

 

I have now noticed that the low idle and vibrating is not going on in the morning when I start the car up... Only when the car is at operating temperature...

Any new ideas, or should I change the parts described and reset the timing still?

 

Hollywood:

I would replace the spark plugs, wires and rotor and distributor cap. I don't think it is necessary to adjust timing. You could check the timing with a timing light and when it is off you should adjust.

I am not sure if you have done all the cleaning I suggested. You should have found that cleaning and reusing is cheaper than throwing new parts at it. In my '98 protege there is a vacuum hose going from the back of the intake manifold to the EGR boost sensor. You must check if it is open or plugged up. Find that EGR boost sensor and follow the hose down to the attachment at the intake manifold. Pull the clamp and the hose off. Insert a strong wire into the nipple and push if you feel resistance.
I am 99% sure that the 626 has the same arrangement as the protege. If this nipple is not open the EGR sensor cannot work.

 

Check the above, and also check the coolant thermosensor. I don't know where it is on your engine, but check the one for the ecu.
There's another sensor for the dash gauge, but I think most of those are single wire.
Unplug the connector, likely 2-wire, and check resistance on the sensor with a multimeter. This sensor, at least in mx3's, does not throw a Check Engine code. But it does effect how the car runs when engine is warm. If the car runs ok till it's warmed up, then starts running crappy, this sensor may not be telling the ecu the engine is warm. The ecu then fails to 'lean-out' the air-fuel mixture, causing it to run rich. This eventually fouls the plugs, causing a poor-running engine that'll try to stall out.
If you check resistance when the engine is cool, and get a reading, warm up the engine and check it again, to see if there's a difference in resistance. If there is, sensor may be fine; but if you don't get a reading (no resistance), the sensor is bad.
I went through a mess on my 94 mx3 rs before finally finding out this sensor was to blame. Replaced it, and car ran fine.

Good luck!