My 96 626 v6, check engine light has been on , at one point it started flashing intermittently, now jus steady. Car runs extremely sluggish like u woke up w/a stuffy nose, total lack of power, tune up done but emissions odor from outside very high. Rich in odor, pinging & knocking during take off. Also, just started having problems w/electrical. Car acts if battery is dead but more like a shortage cuz after a few key turns it cranks. Power locks won't lock all doors sometime, aftermarket radio now somehow ends up reset. Got auto zone diag....knock sensor, map sensor, egr valve, & pressure sensor. Also oil on one spark plug, nevr on ground. I need process of elimination ideas please! & general advice!

 

Hi, not any expert on this (have a v4 myself), but have you checked the "easy" things? Probably not the single answer to engine trouble, but it doesn't hurt to check:
- air intake filter
- oil level & quality
- cooling fluid level & quality

Oil on the spark plug - sounds like the "top" gasket is leaking, not sure how that affects apart from that oil level could drop.

To check for elecrical shortage - disconnect the fuses one-by-one and check resistance between the connectors using a multimeter. Should be infinite unless something is shortcutting or turned "on" (like the lamp in the baggage).

 

Uhhh, while I've heard of "V4s", I don't believe I've ever seen one in the flesh; certainly in no Mazda ever built.

 

Well mine have 4 combustin chambers... 626 2.0L. (So maybe not v4, I thought the number "6" indicated 6 combustion chambers in the motor).

 

You are correct, the "numeric" portion of an engine designation refers (typically) to the cylinder count. That said, the first character is a letter that describes the configuration of said cylinders. The following is a list of engine types that designate the most common piston engine configurations:

• I = Inline engine -- any engine with its pistons all in a single row or "Inline" with each other; your 4-culinder Mazda has an I4 engine.
• V = Vee engine -- any engine with its pistons split between two planes (typically no narrower than 60 degrees or wider than 90 degrees (there are of course exceptions) that represent a Vee style configuration (i.e. a V8 has four inline cylinders on one side of the Vee and four on the other)
• H = Horizontally opposed engine -- any engine where pistons are split between two planes separated by 180 degrees. Light aircraft, Porsches, old VWs and Subarus often sport this type of engine. These engines are also referred to as "Boxer" or "Flat" engines.
• R = Radial engine -- think the big round motors popular during WWII on planes such as the Corsair and the B-17 (among many-many others). As the name suggests, the pistions are arrayed radially around a central axis.
• W = Ummm, a "W" engine -- the rare and much maglined VW engines (W8 & W12) with cylinders arrayed in three inline planes; kinda like a "W".
• VR = Vee Reduced engine -- depending upon your perspective, VW's VR6 is either a very narrow Vee or a very wide Inline style of motor (it has characteristics of both). I had a VR6 in my 1995 Passat and that motor was one honey of a mill.

I hope this helps.

 

It's an I-4 Dale. You know that as well as I.

My best friend's old Saab 96 (one of them at least. He owned many that had to 750-850cc I-3, 2-cycle engines too) had a V4... of Ford design too. Three different ones were available w/three different performance levels, identified by the paint color of the engine block and heads (blue, black or silver.)

Now back to the problem at hand...
Ms626,
What you are describing could come from a number of things. Your car is now 15yrs old and depending on how maintenance was completed could have:
1) A dirty MAF or MAP sensor (always a suspect.)
2) A clogged EGR valve.
3) A vacuum leak somewhere.
4) A split (leaky) intake hose.
5) A clogged catalytic converter.
6) A bad or fouled O2 sensor.
7) A bad or malfuntioning PCM/ECU....
And I'm sure I missed at least a few possibilities. A closer "personal" inspection by someone that knows what to look for is likely to be in order in your case.

 

Well, thanks everyone. And to Virgin1, your suggestions, #1-3, 5 & 7 were all codes that came up during the vehicle diagnostic that was performed. I was gonna replace the EGR valve & vacuum myself, but I read previous posts that mentioned also checking vacuum lines themselves for pressure...was wondering if the line itself is clogged, would changing those 2 parts do any good unless I check pressure also?? And to Ferret626, I always check my oil & my air filter is fine. Anything else on that line, I'm not sure. I also know that one of the descriptions for the EGR code was "insufficient or excessive flow detected". Lastly, if & when I replace MAP Sensor, should I also check the related silenoid as well?