Here is the story. 81k on engine. Has a JR supercharger for most of those miles. Has been running great. Wife drives it to work and when she leaves work it just cranks over but no startup.
Quick diagnosis was no fuel delivery. (would start for a second using some ignition spray into intake).

I than noticed that the initial 3 second fuel pump sound was not present when I turned the key. Removed fuel pump, hooked up to 12v and pump runs fine. Put fuel pump back in tank.
I than jumped f/p and grnd connector in the diagnositic connector and I now hear fuel pump do its 3 second buzz.
I than removed the mass air flow sensor , cleaned it up , checked wiring and tried to start. It started right up.. Though I had fixed it. HOWEVER, i than decided to run it thru start/stop test over and over.

It would start one time, than it might not. It was starting radomly. But i did discover that it would start every time that I saw the check engine light come on when I initailly turn the key(pre start warning light check).
If I didnt see the check engine light when I turned the key on the car would not start.

Also, I dont hear the big relay click when I turn the key on when it fails to start. It cranks but no startup. If I turn the key and I hear the click ,I see the CEL and it starts right up.

Just by turning the key on/off over and over I hear the click radomly. So it appears power is not going thru the relay that cause this clicking. What would keep power radomly getting to the relay?

Also a bit of past noticed issues. Radar detector would radomly display " hi voltage" after using a window, or ac cycle on/off.

The key/ignition switch would get really hot on occasion..

Other than that no issues in the past.
ANY IDEAS?
Voltage regulator? (does it have one?)
Battery issues?
Bad relay?
Ignition switch? Not picking up microchip in key? Non microchip key cranks car but just wont start it.

Thanks for all responses.

 

check for power at relay with a test light, it should have on constant hot and one hot when key is on, if it has power with test light then you have a bad relay, if not then it could be in the wiring or the ignition lock cylinder(possible reason for key gettin hot)