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If any of you have had an issue with the screws coming loose and missing on your door latch mechanism and are wondering what size they are, they are M6-1.0 x 12 mm. The original Mazda part is 9YA500602.
These are the short black philips head countersink screws that hold the latch to the door frame (photos attached). I have a 2016 Mazda 6, but these may be used on other models
I bought a 3 pack at Home Depot for $2.75. Just put some blue Loc-tite thread lock on them before attaching to prevent them from working loose. The OEM screws have a washer attached that I guess is supposed to be a lock washer. Although, it didn't work very well.
Hope this helps anyone out there that might have encountered this problem.
We just re-torque them in the shop. The looseness comes for shutting the door harder then it really needs to be.
However for DIY its easy fix if you go the fastener replacement route . I suggest checking all of them but it is mostly the drivers door that get effected?.
Plus another advise is when exiting slow down and make sure the belt latch is not in the door jam area.
99% of owners eventually have nicks of paint their.
Thank you for the response.Callisto. Yeah the screws had fallen completely out. This is my son's car, so I wasn't aware of the issue until he called a few days ago and said his door wouldn't stay shut. Now I know why my mom used to get so upset when I slammed the car door lol! Slamming the doors wreaks all kinds of havoc, including loosening door panels, mirrors, glass, etc. And now apparently the door latch screws!
Maybe......but you wouldn't typically need to remove these bolts......I have never been a fan of the blue......I just use a smaller amount of red! It works!!
Maybe......but you wouldn't typically need to remove these bolts......I have never been a fan of the blue......I just use a smaller amount of red! It works!!
I had the colors trained into my brain when working avionic for a short time. I learned that RED ,which was my go to color for everything is not made for everything. Door hardware needs or may need to be service. Like replacement of the mechanism in the pictures here. Use RED may make a simple service more PIA.
Owning my machine shop I rarely used any thread locker. This goes back to my Engineering studies that if the proper fasteners and the material of the fastener is used and torqued properly you should not need any thread locker.
However I understand many like yourself like to use them from time to time and would rarely say DONT use a thread locker on any automotive forum in 99% of mentioned times like this thread (because it may be a good idea considering the OP's who what and why) except an Aviation forum.
One of the things that I see with the 1986-1993 Mazda trucks is the flywheel bolt holes are drilled and threaded all the way through the rear crankshaft flange. The FSM shows to use a certain sealant on them. I will use the red Loctite as it is also impervious to the oil once cured, and does a nice job sealing the threads as well as securing the crank-to-flywheel bolts. So many of the newbies will not catch this when rebuilding their engines......probably because they are in a hurry to install it and fire it up......then when they develop the inevitable rear oil leak, they think that the rear main seal is to blame!