Maybe the MAF isn't connecting properly electrically? You could wrap tie wraps around the intake tube all the way around so MAF doesn't move. Maybe clean the wire connections in where it plugs than put proper elec grease around it to help prevent it from moving.

 

yeah, was thinking that was a possibility as well as maybe the air seal when I reattached the MAF isn't tight.

Like I said earlier, when my CEL does go on, it seems to go on under the same conditions, after about 15-30 seconds after starting my car when I am accelerating from a parking lot, etc (usually when I get between 15-25 mph). It hasn't gone off after this point when I'm driving around town, always after starting up and driving.

So I believe the CEL is activated after it first starts reading air under acceleration which trips the code, but its sporadic. Maybe there IS an electrical malfunction (but I would think a code for the MAF would go off). So far I'm only getting the lean code.

 

If I have a code and do something to the engine because of that I clear the code myself by disconnecting the battery negative cable and stepping on the brake for a few seconds. That resets the ECU. As soon as the light appears again I have it scanned. That way I know to what the ECU reacted.

 

i've done that before, same code comes on eventually under the same conditions. when I had them scan for real time data, they said everything was working as it should, it just got a freeze frame code stored in memory, which makes me think the problem is transient or triggered only under specific conditions.

 

Interestingly enough, I checked my MAF just now after the light came on......the back screw won't hold properly. Think this is enough to set a code off?

Going to try to secure it with a new screw and zip ties.

Mazda6 loose MAF sensor - YouTube

 

The hole where the screw goes into is stripped pretty badly. i may need to get a new air filter cover. Right now, I just electric taped it. Zip ties were all too short to anchor it. not ideal, but will continue to monitor.

 

The o-ring may not seal properly. It may cause the code. You can put in slightly bigger screws----I have done it in the past. I just used short robertson screws that I had hanging around. Try a #7 or #8 x 1/2" or 5/8". Make sure o-ring is sitting right.
With my aftermarket K&N I don't have that problem as there is actually receiving aluminum threads for a tight seal.
The stock set-up: you just screw in to plastic, so go a bit bigger.
Good Catch, nice video!

 

I tried the #8 1/2 already as well as a #6 1/2, it didn't hold. might pick up some other screws to try.

 

I don't know if you can go bigger, but you can go a bit longer. #10 may be too wide to get past. You know what to do.

 

You could link a couple zip ties together to achieve proper length.
Use 2 -- 1 at each side of MAF (at edge).
Criss cross them on other side to keep them tight and pulling slightly to centre @ MAF so it won't slip off (could also put duct tape at edges of zip ties to intake tube as well).