Attempted to rotate my rear tires over the weekend------couldn't figure out the rear jack points so well. Manual just said "place closest to the wheel". On my other cars, there is an obvious 'bump" that rests on the frame that is perfect for jack or jack stand. In front, I jacked up right under cross bar that ran in front of engine, and then placed jackstands on a beam that ran length of car on either side (under car of course). Rear was much different. I jacked up car on cross beam that ran under differential, but when I went to slide jacks under on rear portion of beam that I used for front, they stared to bend, so I just winded up keeping jack in rear, which doesn't seem ideal or safe. Seems like novice blunder, but where in the world would jack stands go on this darn car?

Oh, couldn't get right rear wheel off once jacked up no matter how much I tugged on thing, but that's another issue..........

 

Other than the Speed6, it's a front wheel drive car, so there is no differential. But yes, there is a jacking point just about the 'Y' in the exhaust system, between the two suspension assemblies.

The rear side jacking or stand points are just in front of each rear wheel where the body seams meet. Believe there are a couple of nuts & bolts there. It's somewhat defined, but not very well compared to past cars I've owned.

The wheels on the 6 are considered 'hub centric', which means the wheel fits very tight to the hub, helping to keep the wheel centered. This means it's easy to have things seize up a bit. I use food grade anti-seize around the edge of the center of the hub, on the face of the rotors between the studs, and a bit on the lug nuts as well.

Food grade anti-seize is perfect for uses such as that; it's non-metallic, cleans-up easily, and won't negatively effect torque readings when tightening. CRC Industries, Inc. SL35905 Food Grade Anti-Seize Lubricant



btw- are your tires unidirectional? If so, you should only rotate them front to back, not side to side.

 

thanks for reply. I guess where rear suspension comes together, there is (what I generically call a "differential", but I know what you mean) a big ball of metal, and right below, there is piece of metal, that is where I jacked rear of car. For the left rear jack stand, I followed the beam that runs from the front of the car to the rear, and right where body came together, there were smoe bolts as you said---but it reallt seemed fsar form the rear wheels and sorta closer to center of car. Worked okay on right rear, but on left rear, it stared to bend as I placecd stand underneath, so I dion't feel feel right about keeping it there. If rear point from stand is clsoe to wheel well, how far? a foot, mayeb 5 "? I'll look again and figure it out.

THis is another lame question, but I yanked on that darn right rear tire, and w/all screws off, it wouln't budge!! If I used a mallet and tapped on inside of tire, would that be okay to loosen tire with out messing anything up?

Tires are unidirectional, so I guess I have to go front to rear and not in "x" pattern.

Forgot to tell you that all my screws had a silver grease/paste on them---perhaps thsi is a "food grade antiseize?"

 

Yes, it's very likely. Though I don't know why you would need food grade?
I also spread a little (very light coating) Anti-Seize on the back of my wheels where they meet the hub/rotor to avoid the scenario you now have.
Two dissimilar metals, in this case aluminum and steel, will corrode together when exposed to moisture. Its worse if you live in the snow belt. The process is known as galvanic action and is similar to the electroplating, or "galvanizing" process.

In your case, galvanic action has taken place already and yes, you will need to "beat" the offending wheel(s) off. I suggest first using the mallet on the front of the tire. Sometimes a few med taps will be enough to break it free. Other times it takes a sledge hammer.

When rotating tires on my 3 series (front to rear, etc.) I put the floor jack with a 3' piece of 2x4 on its saddle, just behind the rocker panel to the front of center. This raises the entire side of the car at once w/o any damage to the body or floor of the car.

If using the cars' own jack or jack strands, the pinch weld between the inner and outer rocker panel is the correct place to jack. Anywhere will do, but there are "indicators" where the pinch weld is just a little bit shorter.

 

Food grade:
Cleans-up much easier
Won't stain fabrics
With no metallic content, zero concern of it causing or adding to a metallurgic reaction
Since it's intended for use in food service it is much less likely to drip, and will not sling when used on a rotating assembly (assuming proper amount used)

 

Ah. Interesting. I was not aware of those facts.
Slinging is certainly a problem w/reg Anti-Seize and why I always recommend a very light coating of the stuff.
Thanks, Karl!

 

My brother pointed me to it. :-)

 

A legitimate source, I'm sure.
Now if it had been my brother, who is mechanically challenged....
Besides, we all have to learn new things from somewhere!! Good tip and thanks again!!

 

THanks, perhaps after a few years, I'll be able to help some folks. Let the tire beat-down begin!