There is a reset procedure to this once the battery has been reconnected to the vehicle. Let me pull it off of Alldata real quick...
1. Turn ignition to ON position.
2. From driver's seat ensure window lockout switch is NOT depressed. 3. Press window switch down to fully open door window.4. Pull window switch up to fully close door window; hold switch up for two (2) seconds; release switch. 5. Move to front passenger seat and repeat Steps 3 - 4 on passenger window switch. 6. Mazdaspeed6 Only: Move to rear seat and repeat Steps 3 - 4 at left and right rear seat window switches. 7. Verify proper window operation using each door switch.

I hope this helps anyone!

 

Stumbled upon this thread thru a google search...I have a 2005 Mazda 3. I have replaced both headlight bulbs several times. I still thought the bulbs were just burning out or the filaments were loose -- I don't know.

I was buying bulbs from Walmart so thought maybe they were just poor quality, so I bought some really good ones at Pepboys. They worked for a while but now I have the same problem. The left one only works sometimes. Sometimes if I thump on it it will work.

I have pulled out the connector with the bulb attached and it comes on. I wiggle it around to see if it has a loose connection somewhere but it won't go out then. Just today I noticed my right one isn't working either.

I have looked at the connectors and couldn't detect anything loose or corroded...I don't know what to do. I could take it to a shop but I don't want to pay someone hundreds of dollars if I can fix it myself. Seems like it can't be a relay or fuse if the light comes on when I move the connector itself...?

One thing I have thought of is you know how you buy the bulb and it just has that metal thing on it and two prongs? Then there is a piece that you don't replace but you plug the bulb into it and that part plugs into the connector. I don't know what those are called, but could they be bad?

I love my car and this is the only problem I've had with it! I really hope it's not a huge problem

 

Hi guys, me again, that started this thread...

My problem is still not resolved, and my mot has now expired. (recap: left headlight dead. Right headlight comes on after repeatedly switching lights on/off. Mazda dealer tried to rip me off for £500 to change both bulbs, which I politely declined)

I went to a specialist auto-electrics guy who lives near me. He spent an hour on it with oscilliscopes and all the diagnostic gear. My bulbs and fuses are all fine - and both controller units (silver things underneath headlamp unit) are fine. (ish).

The intermittent headlight is down to a 'mapping issue' (easily fixed by him, I'm told) in the controller configuration, but not worth fixing until the other headlamp is good, since this might be influenced by the other lamp's deadness...

The dead lamp has a healthy bulb (determined by swapping with other unit) and controller. The controller is responding with 'no positive response from ignitor'. That fact alone says the controller is good. I asked where he'd get a new ignitor from, and he said from a Mazda main dealer, but he was off on holiday for a while now, so I could get it myself if I wanted.

Mazda seemed clueless when I called, and asked me to visit the parts dept of their dealership to point out the bit I needed. I went and looked, and sure enough, of the dozens of parts relating to the headlight system, the ignitor wasn't shown! Turns out it's an 'integral part of the headlight unit' (£400). I tried a VW parts place (since the ignitor is common to some of their models), but they don't sell it separately either!

Once the volcanic dust cleared (literally), I ordered it from Germany. £38.
Now, I have the headlamp unit in my lounge, and can't get access to the interior of the unit. The glass needs to come off the front to gain access, but is sealed up like a time capsule! (extra tacky rubber sealant).

I about to break open the unit from the bottom so I can replace the ignitor, which is held in place by 2 screws only accessible from the inside of the unit. I figure I've got nothing to lose now, so worth a try. I've already managed to 'lose' several small pieces of plastic trying to encourage the lens cover off, so imagine a replacement unit is the final step anyway...

Bizarrely though, the unit has a printed label on it dated '7 August 2006'. That's odd considering my car was first sold in March 2005!! Obviously not the first time they've had problems with the headlamp unit on THIS car, and I guess many others that they're keeping quiet about!

If anyone knows how to access the interior of a headlamp unit without breaking it (or some smart way of replacing the ignitor), please reply very soon. Cheers.

 

OK, I cut a 4"x4" hole in the base of the headlight unit, revealing the tightly hidden torx screws, and using a small flat blade screwdriver, managed to change the ignitors over!

Replaced the unit back in the car, and guess what? I got all lights working!!
(except the HID dipped headlight - so it still doesn't effin work!)

Tomorrow I'll swap the control units over, and see if the problem follows. What on earth will it take to fix this dumb problem?!?

 

Ok, I swapped the silver control units over, and the problem followed the control unit, so that's the problem! Anyone know where to get one at a decent price?

BTW, Now the RHS has the LHS's control unit, the RHS indicators are flashing at double-speed. I guess this will go away when I put the original one back on the RHS, and a new unit on the LHS.

 

After much fruitless searching, I finally caved in and bought a controller from that clueless Arnold Clark mazda garage in Sighthill (avoid!), who claim they've never sold one of these units before. It will arrive in 2 days time, but I'm at a funeral, so will get it fixed on Friday. Hopefully that's the last £240 I'll have to spend on this problem. Next update on Saturday...

 

ps3, what is the ignitor?

And do you know what that part between the connector and the bulb is called?

 

The ignitor is a small plastic box 4"x2" that sits just inside the headlamp unit. There is a clip with 3 this wires that runs inside the headlamp unit and plugs into the ignitor. It's held in place with 2 completely inaccessible torx screws at construction time.

There are 2 thick wires running from the ignitor to the plastic cap that clips onto the bulb itself. The ignitor, the wires and the bulky cap come as one.

The controller sends a low voltage signal to the ignitor to do its stuff, and this is the baby that delivers the 20kV startup signal, and ongoing lower voltage (300V iirc)

There are pictures of the silver controller, and the ignitor here:
http://www.auto-electronic.net/AL-Bo...st-ignitor.htm

 

Replacing the headlight controller unit did the trick, and I now have a new MOT, and the hire car has gone back.

Personally, I am appalled at my Mazda main dealer for:
A) Not being able to diagnose the problem, even saying "100% it's the bulbs".
B) Not understanding how HID light systems work. (They even called it 'bi-xenon headlight system' - which it isn't, because main beam is from a non-hid bulb)
C) Overcharging (remember £234/bulb!) and £240 for the controller.

I vow never to visit those a***holes again!

On the plus side, the Mazda 6 Sport is a very good car! Once the light was fixed, it flew through the MOT without so much as an advisory. It's a pity they didn't make the 2.3 engine a V6 rather than the extended 4 pot it is - THAT would have made it a great car...

 

hi
i agree its a great car , my problem with the headlight has gone away for now , no doubt to re appear later on,
but a v6 i stay with straight 4 , seems more problems with the v6 engines .