My husband and I have been trying to replace the front brake pads on my 2004 sport wagon and have a problem with the calipers. We remove the allen screw easy enough, but the caliper will not rotate down fully, in fact, only a very little (about 1"). Does anyone have any clues or ideas of what would be keeping the caliper from rotating down? I've searched the forum and have not found anything in regards to problems getting the caliper to rotate.

 

I personally don't do brakes, but i do know the pins can get seized.

Good Video:
I have a feeling he had to heat them up to get them loose. This is why i take it to the garage.

Here is a PIC of Brake Hardware involved with the FRONT (both Sides) of Mazda 6.
The kit on Left is Caliper kit which includes the 4 small round slider pin grease rubber boots. You can buy the boots separately but the whole kit is the same price and gives you brake caliper seals as well. FRONT # GPYB-33-26Z ($24.16 List Can, I paid $17). REAR Kit # GPYA-26-46Z ($19.64 List Can, paid 16.69).
The kit on the right side is Pad Hold Down Kit (both sides in a kit as well, both shown).
FRONT Kit # GPYB-33-29ZB ($41.87 List Can, paid 30) , REAR Kit # GPYA-26-49ZA ($35.04 List Can, paid 25). I get good deals! Thanx Mazda.
Total for FRONT & REAR, both kits (Pad Hold Down & Caliper) = $88.69 + Tax = $100.22
Getting these installed in a couple of days as well as re-painting calipers and middle of rotors black and Winter tires put back on as well as lube, oil, filter.
On second pic you can see corrosion on hold down kit.

 

Just a comment...took my 2010 Mazda 6 to the dealership for an oil change , it has 45,000 kilometers on it, the mechanic said the front brakes needed to be lubricated and the back brakes needed to be replaced rear brake pads , therefore the total amount for labour was $243.95 and parts $116.59. The mechanic said i should have brought my car in at 24,000 kilometers to have my brakes looked at.. I also had an oil change. I always feel ripped off by mechanics that show you brake pads that I am supposed to see "are about to seize up" and understand they need service even though my car did not give me any reason to believe it needed servicing.. Want ot find a mechanic in grey bruce area that is honest or maybethe mazda dealership was...doubt very much. 2.5 hours labour for lubricating and changing back pads..sure!!!

 

TO MELISSAK:
If you looked at the video, lubricating the slider pins is a bigger job than just changing pads. You had both front and rear lubricated. Yes dealerships are expensive. Should have went to a cheaper shop. I may be getting my brakes lubricated again soon or in the spring before they seize up.
I just looked at my last bill on Aug 2011: it took 2.5 hours to service brakes and paint calipers black for 198.75 in labor ($79.50/hr). $11 for paint. I need new hardware next time.

 

I've had my car into the dealership about once a year for one thing or another, and always have the Circle 5 inspection at the same time. They have never breathed a word in regards to lubricating the brakes or slider pins. They did tell me this last time I needed new pads on the front, and showing wear on the back. We usually change the pads ourselves. We are going to replace rotors as well this time - hopefully I don't have to buy new calipers and can just rebuild the ones we have.

BTW, they also told me the oil pan gasket was leaking, which was false. I have my oil changed every month because I put so many highway miles on it (3000 a month) - after hearing that I took it back to my oil change shop and asked them to check out the pan gasket for leaks, they said it was dry as a bone...

 

It's hard to diagnose when slider pins need to be done. Mostly, you don't know until you have it apart. I also need new hold downs as the last time he put it back together it squeaked on a test drive, he re-bent something and good to go.

I am not worried about small grooves in rotor, yet!

 

I do not trust car mechanics at all and it is difficult to know when they are telling the truth i wish now i had have brought a cloth with me to wipe the rust that he proceeded to show me on the back brake because the front brake was clean as a whistle and looked brand new...i think at $96.50 an hour for labour is quite a lot of money ...i have had nissan vehicles before and never had to replace brakes at 45000kms..

 

Melissa:
I suggest you buy the Haynes manual for your car even if you don't wrench on it yourself. It helps you to do some diagnostics yourself and the more you know the easier it is to spot that condescending slick mechanic.

Some rust is quite normal. Rust on brake calipers only matters if it affect the motion of the movable parts. Once the wheel is off you should be able to push the caliper inward, then pull outward by 1 to 2 cm (1/2" or so). If that doesn't work the sliders need to be looked at.
The parts that Noggin painted may be rusty without negative effects.

Also I think you should find a small mom and pop gas station with a mechanic. Once you find one frequent them often for gas, oil changes. Generally, I would stay away from dealers and large franchises even though there are some good shops too.

 

^^^^^^This. I painted them because the calipers and inner rotors around middle looked like crap. They look a lot better now. Some people paint them yello or red. I could have painted them blue but not the same color. Black was a good choice.

 

Thanks for the information ..I will buy the Haynes Manual..I assume i can call up any book store and get a copy of this...and I will be going to a small mechanic business instead of the dealership.