Airbag code 23
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: southern New Hampshire
Have your OBD-II codes read (from Autozone, a good mechanic, or your dealership), that'll give you more information. That said, this is likely to be a fix you'll not be able to perform yourself.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: southern New Hampshire
To say that I have a hard time believing that a cracked plug (From one of those shortened electrode plugs of yours? Bad idea by the way.) has anything to do with an airbag warning is an extreme understatement. Said another way, I'm calling BS on that suggestion.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: southern New Hampshire
With those plugs I did not get any codes just the air bag light on the dash would come on when the RPMs got higher. Those plugs worked good, I cut the ground back made more fire. But the air bag light bugged me. So I found racing plugs NGK BKE6EK & all was good. RFI does strange things to a car.
That is what was happening to my car. It is just something to look at, if it did it with my car & its a Mazda too, so it might be the same thing on the 6 also.
You don't know until you look.
p.s. Non resistor spark plugs is like advancing your spark & letting all the power out. Use high octane with those!
That is what was happening to my car. It is just something to look at, if it did it with my car & its a Mazda too, so it might be the same thing on the 6 also.
You don't know until you look.
p.s. Non resistor spark plugs is like advancing your spark & letting all the power out. Use high octane with those!
A few points:
- No matter how often you say it, cutting the electrode back on a plug will NOT "make more fire". Simple fact of physics.
- Using non-resistor spark plug will NOT advance your timing one bit, and even if non-resistor plugs did fire a fraction of a second earlier, the engine control software would immediately adjust the timing to compensate, thus causing the spark event to occur at exactly the same point in the compression stroke that it did with the OEM plugs.
- Then there's the use of Premium fuel; geez, where do I begin. Like it or not, believe it or not, unless your engine control software is capable of compensating for the extra anti-knock/detonation properties of fuel that has a higher detonation resistance than what the factory calls for (something that isn't very typical), using premium fuel in an engine that is designed to run with regular fuel is simply wasting money with zero performance or mileage benefit.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 3
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From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Hello,
This may be an old thread, but useful nonetheless, for my own case: there was a kid-related-coffee-spill around the electrical unit underneath the drivers side seat in my 2006 Mazda 5, I was getting Airbag signal "23". The indicator seems to turn off intermitently mind you, after some percusive maintenance on the electrical unit underneath the seat.
My question is: surely there is more maintenance to proper airbag function on a 10 year old car than the simple tests run automatically when you turn the car on?
peace!
This may be an old thread, but useful nonetheless, for my own case: there was a kid-related-coffee-spill around the electrical unit underneath the drivers side seat in my 2006 Mazda 5, I was getting Airbag signal "23". The indicator seems to turn off intermitently mind you, after some percusive maintenance on the electrical unit underneath the seat.
My question is: surely there is more maintenance to proper airbag function on a 10 year old car than the simple tests run automatically when you turn the car on?
peace!
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 129
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From: West Des Moines, Iowa
If it was my car, I'd disconnect the battery cables, and while they're disconnected use some electrical contact cleaner on the terminal/plug in question. And since it's vulnerable to spills, I'd even put a bit of dielectric grease on it.
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Hi Kartlt10,
Thanks for the tips on that, we've another day with no indicator light! I'll have to take your advice if it turns on again.
Do you have any tips on the shocks for this model(Mazda 5), I don't really feel or hear any problems with our rear shocks and bearings, but our regular mechanic insists they need replacing, and nothing wrong with a second opinion, any telling signs the shocks or bearings need replacing?
Thanks!
Thanks for the tips on that, we've another day with no indicator light! I'll have to take your advice if it turns on again.
Do you have any tips on the shocks for this model(Mazda 5), I don't really feel or hear any problems with our rear shocks and bearings, but our regular mechanic insists they need replacing, and nothing wrong with a second opinion, any telling signs the shocks or bearings need replacing?
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 129
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From: West Des Moines, Iowa
Shocks it's usually the old bounce test pushing down at each corner and seeing how many rebounds you get from a good downward shove.
Wheel bearings can usually be a simple as jacking-up that particular corner and spinning the wheel. You might hear a bit of brake pad drag, but there shouldn't be any sound from the hub/bearing whatsoever. If it's early in going out, there may not be a whole lot of noise when jacked-up/off the weight. When mine went pad I was able to drive really close to a wall at a nearby store and hear the noise reflected off the wall.
Wheel bearings can usually be a simple as jacking-up that particular corner and spinning the wheel. You might hear a bit of brake pad drag, but there shouldn't be any sound from the hub/bearing whatsoever. If it's early in going out, there may not be a whole lot of noise when jacked-up/off the weight. When mine went pad I was able to drive really close to a wall at a nearby store and hear the noise reflected off the wall.
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