That DIY is flawed in so many ways and should not be actually taken as a way to determine a service relating to the cooling system. Poorly set up video, no testing control , no baseline information and no way to see how the vehicle is set up for the video, no basic information about the vehicle in the video and no serving related to the cooling system performed for this video ets, etc, etc,
Sorry but when i see really bad or ridicules posting I call-it as such and that one is BAD. LOL

The Mazda year mentioned in this thread has no out of ordinary cooling system servicing reported by Mazda (that I could find relating to any TSBs VIN specific or model year) mentioned. Source 2025 updated Professional service shop subscription ALLData ) nor does the engine specifically the head have ever had related head casting issues in the water flow casting areas that would create anything except normal servicing (No found on the model mention in this thread Mazda TSB, Recalls or Safety recalls relating to the cooling system) . And most of the thermostat used also have a giggle valve. (see information on its purpose)
In a nutshell most who have issues regarding servicing a cooling system are DIYs or a bad mechanic not really trained to service cooling systems and both DIY and some mechanics that do not take the time to look for information in a Factory service manual for the exact steps to service the different areas of a cooling system.

 

Don't care about your opinion Callisto, just showing what it took to burp an 08 auto 2.3 with my rig. FSM says rev at 3500 or 5000 (Mazda or Ford) 5 minutes 4 times, you cant even do that in this car as the ECU cuts RPM before the 5 minutes. You made my list, too bad Ill never see your snarky posts ever again.

 

Very few times on any forum do I post opinions but when I do you will always see IMHO or IMO otherwise it’s pretty much factual and how serving a vehicle is suppose to be done . I guess the blue colored info in my signature in your mind seems more DIY or less then your service methods ?

As for Ypu not seeing my post, well of not here I belong and participate actively on no less then 12+ vehicle related forums. This one happens to get my best attention to actually try to help members with issues question and better methods of DIY servicing their vehicles as I attempted with you .


BTW either your service guide is totally out dated with no revisions or you read it wrong. First off it’s called bleeding not burping and roving to 5000 would cause cavitation increasing the chances on not clearing any air in the cooling system . And as I said most thermostat having a jiggle valve just by normally running the engine would do the same as the procedure to burp the system. And if you also read your head was not one that had casting concerns making changing the cooling system fluid challenging or difficult .
Mazda basic Service procedure. I did not copy the full service so as not to violate copy right material

1. Bleed the System (Engine Run Cycle):
   • Start the engine and let it idle until the temperature gauge reaches the center (normal operating temperature). Ensure the heater control inside the car is set to the hottest setting and the fan is on to open the heater core and allow air to escape.
   • Once the engine is warm, run it at 2,500 RPM for 2 to 3 minutes, twice.
   • Next, run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 5 seconds, then let it idle. Repeat this rev/idle sequence two more times.
2. Cool Down and Re-check:
   • Stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely (this can take an hour or more, preferably overnight).
   • Once cool, inspect the coolant level in the reservoir and add more coolant to the "F" mark as needed.
3. Monitor:
   • Continue to monitor the coolant level in the reservoir over the next few drive cycles, topping off as necessary until the level stabilizes at the "F" mark when the engine is cold. Small amounts of air may continue to bleed out of the system for a few engine cycles.

 

Very few times on any forum do I post opinions but when I do you will always see IMHO or IMO otherwise it’s pretty much factual and how serving a vehicle is suppose to be done . I guess the blue colored info in my signature in your mind seems more DIY or less then your service methods ?

As for You not seeing my post, well of not here I belong and participate actively on no less then 12+ vehicle related forums. So leaving to go to another forum is your choice and I am sure I will likely see you again. This one happens to get my best attention to actually try to help members with issues question and better methods of DIY servicing their vehicles as I attempted with you .
Besides like a few that only join to get free advise and leave until they need it again. What they don’t get it all helps others reading this thread and threads in general regarding like issues.nThe good thing about that is they can read a DIY method and then from some member like myself and weigh out what will work best for them.
And that’s where this thread below is good information for all to read and think about

https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/off...wn-risk-44779/


BTW either your service guide is totally out dated with no revisions or you read it wrong. First off it’s called bleeding not burping and roving to 5000 would cause cavitation increasing the chances on not clearing any air in the cooling system . And as I said most thermostat having a jiggle valve just by normally running the engine would do the same as the procedure to burp the system. And if you also read your head was not one that had casting concerns making changing the cooling system fluid challenging or difficult .
Mazda basic Service procedure. I did not copy the full service so as not to violate copy right material

1. Bleed the System (Engine Run Cycle):
   • Start the engine and let it idle until the temperature gauge reaches the center (normal operating temperature). Ensure the heater control inside the car is set to the hottest setting and the fan is on to open the heater core and allow air to escape.
   • Once the engine is warm, run it at 2,500 RPM for 2 to 3 minutes, twice.
   • Next, run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 5 seconds, then let it idle. Repeat this rev/idle sequence two more times.
2. Cool Down and Re-check:
   • Stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely (this can take an hour or more, preferably overnight).
   • Once cool, inspect the coolant level in the reservoir and add more coolant to the "F" mark as needed.
3. Monitor:
   • Continue to monitor the coolant level in the reservoir over the next few drive cycles, topping off as necessary until the level stabilizes at the "F" mark when the engine is cold. Small amounts of air may continue to bleed out of the system for a few engine cycles.