2.3 engine
#1
11-04-2009, 10:40 PM
2.3 engine
hey i was wondering wat some good mods would be for the 2.3 engine.. i have to pull it out and replace some rod bearings so i was thinkin bout buildin it up a little bit.. any infp would be great thanks
#3
11-05-2009, 10:29 AM
For N/A here is a very good writeup taken from 6crew.com on the various options available, from the mild to the extreme.
This is the first stage of modifications for owners who want to start modding, or just give their 6i a peppier response, smoother acceleration, better electrical efficiency, and a small increase in gas mileage. Anyone interested in these primary modifications can easily access the instructions as I’ve linked to them. No need for searching and coming up empty. These modifications are very basic, very easily reversible and will not void your warranty.
1. Throttle Body Ground
2. Intake resonator removal
3. Replace Stock Air Filter
4. Short shifter
1. Throttle Body Ground
Install: 5-10min (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2400612)
Info: TB torque spec: 6-8ft/lb
Cost: $3-5
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Smoother shifting
Cons: N/A
This is one of the simplest do-it-yourself modifications you can do. It primarily consists of one heavy gauge wire (8-10ga) connecting from one of the bolts from the throttle body to the negative terminal or the main chassis ground. Users report a more linear acceleration and slightly better throttle response with grounding directly to the negative terminal. This in itself is a drivability mod. It will not show in a dyno as the throttle is at WOT (wide open throttle) the whole time. Dynos don’t test for throttle response.
2. Intake Resonator Removal
Install: 30-1hr (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Cost: $0
Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation
Cons: N/A
You can remove your stock intake\'s resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.
3. Replace Stock Air Filter
Install: 5-10min (remove 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new)
Cost: $40-60
Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency
Cons: N/A
Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N (http://knfilters.com) . If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.
4.Short Throw Shifter
Install: 30-60min (http://www.twmperformance.com/manual...3%20Manual.pdf)
Cost: $150
Pros: Shorter throw, Positive shift feel, Quicker 0-60, 1/4 times
Cons: Notchy shift feel with TWM
A short shifter shortens the throw by 20-40% depending on the brand. A suggestion is to purchase the kits that have a bend towards the driver, for aesthetics. Notchiness will be felt shifting with the stock ****. This will be alleviated with a weighted ****. The best and more expensive ***** come from TWM. This modification will not reduce the life of your transmission.
Having owned both of these (Rainmens) I would suggest the MS STS as it is stock height compared to TWM\'s very low shifter and quite a bit LESS notchy.
Shifters Kits
TWM : http://twmperformance.com
Mazdaspeed: http://www.buymazdaparts.com/parts.c...de=MZ6&catid=7
This is the first stage of modifications for owners who want to start modding, or just give their 6i a peppier response, smoother acceleration, better electrical efficiency, and a small increase in gas mileage. Anyone interested in these primary modifications can easily access the instructions as I’ve linked to them. No need for searching and coming up empty. These modifications are very basic, very easily reversible and will not void your warranty.
1. Throttle Body Ground
2. Intake resonator removal
3. Replace Stock Air Filter
4. Short shifter
1. Throttle Body Ground
Install: 5-10min (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2400612)
Info: TB torque spec: 6-8ft/lb
Cost: $3-5
Pros: Smoother acceleration, Smoother shifting
Cons: N/A
This is one of the simplest do-it-yourself modifications you can do. It primarily consists of one heavy gauge wire (8-10ga) connecting from one of the bolts from the throttle body to the negative terminal or the main chassis ground. Users report a more linear acceleration and slightly better throttle response with grounding directly to the negative terminal. This in itself is a drivability mod. It will not show in a dyno as the throttle is at WOT (wide open throttle) the whole time. Dynos don’t test for throttle response.
2. Intake Resonator Removal
Install: 30-1hr (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Cost: $0
Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation
Cons: N/A
You can remove your stock intake\'s resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.
3. Replace Stock Air Filter
Install: 5-10min (remove 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new)
Cost: $40-60
Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency
Cons: N/A
Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N (http://knfilters.com) . If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.
4.Short Throw Shifter
Install: 30-60min (http://www.twmperformance.com/manual...3%20Manual.pdf)
Cost: $150
Pros: Shorter throw, Positive shift feel, Quicker 0-60, 1/4 times
Cons: Notchy shift feel with TWM
A short shifter shortens the throw by 20-40% depending on the brand. A suggestion is to purchase the kits that have a bend towards the driver, for aesthetics. Notchiness will be felt shifting with the stock ****. This will be alleviated with a weighted ****. The best and more expensive ***** come from TWM. This modification will not reduce the life of your transmission.
Having owned both of these (Rainmens) I would suggest the MS STS as it is stock height compared to TWM\'s very low shifter and quite a bit LESS notchy.
Shifters Kits
TWM : http://twmperformance.com
Mazdaspeed: http://www.buymazdaparts.com/parts.c...de=MZ6&catid=7
#4
11-05-2009, 10:30 AM
Stage II
1. Ignition Timing Advance
2. SRI/CAI
3. Rear Muffler / Cat Back
4. High-Flow Cat or
5. Mounts
6. Throttle Body
7. Transmission Cooler
The mods in this stage will yield a decent increase in gas mileage and a really good gain in both horsepower and torque once completed- around gains of 10whp/10wtq peak!! The installs are relatively easy, which anyone can do with the right tools, but you might have to have a shop install your exhaust modifications as it requires 1 or 2 cuts into the stock system and possibly some welding involved.
1. Ignition Timing Advance
Price: $0
Install: 20-40min
Further Reading http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html
Pros: Take advantage of higher octane, smoother acceleration, more hp/tq, ECU pulls back when engine knocking is detected
Cons: Cost of using higher octane, Possible knocking from 87
Peak Power Gains: +6whp/3wtq (using 89 octane and timing vs. 87; your mileage may vary)
What you\'re basically doing is igniting the fuel mixture a little sooner by moving the slotted crank position sensor to advance the ignition timing. It will still be within factory specs (8° BTDC set at factory according to Service Manual, 10° BTDC according to Service Highlights- that info alone could be why some stock 6s are putting out slightly higher #s than others). This modification only deals with the ignition; the cam is not affected- therefore, the VVT operations/changes will still engage at the same rpms. While 87 octane works with this modification, those who have experienced knocking/pinging use 89 octane to compensate.
I advise you to reset the ECU so the timing curves/maps can be learned quicker. It will most likely stall just once while trying to find the new idle speed (it won’t stall again while it’s idle hunting the next time you reset the ECU). Some users report a slightly lower idle speed after doing this mod, so don't be surprised if it drops lower than you're used to. You might also want to add some fuel injector cleaner every few tanks if you’re using 89 or higher.
My observations on different octane after this mod:
I've tried running 87 and it didn't seem to accelerate as fast on the freeway (ECU possibly retarding back the timing to a "safer" level). Burned through 2 gallons pretty fast though. I feel almost no difference between 89 and 91 for my 6, but both allow me to get better performance and smoother/quicker acceleration at the cost of lower gas mileage compared to the 87.
From Monzsta, the mod's originator:
Factory timing is highly conservative, plus the ever-present knock sensor will protect the engine. Worst case scenario is the mod won't show any gains, meaning that the engine is utilizing all the advance it had previous, and the ecm is pulling out the added timing due to spark knock. Being users of this mod ARE reporting gains, it would seem the engine can use more timing. My car hasn't shown any improvement in stock form with 87 vs. 93 octane and it seems to now after advancing the timing, indicating the ecm is finally using the knock sensor to determine what grade of fuel I'm running and adapting it's timing maps to compensate. (as it should if the engine were in a max effort tune from the factory, like a 'Vette's.)
Timing Advance + 89 octane dyno:
@3.5k: +2hp, 4tq
@4.5k: +3hp, 4tq
@5.5k: +4hp, 4tq
@6.0k: +5hp, 4tq
@6.5k: +5hp, 4tq
Pictures provided by Werm
2.Short Ram Intake / Cold Air Intake
Cost: $180-350
Install: 1-2hrs / 10-30mins if resonator is removed (resonator removal install: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage
Cons: Concerns of hydrolock
Peak Power Gains: varies (reported gains from 6-8hp)
There will always be a debate whether SRI or CAIs are better for the 3. The easiest way to look at it is that the generally cheaper SRI tubing is short and relies on vehicle speed to provide the engine with cold air while moving. A CAI’s tubing is longer and its filter sits much lower allowing the engine to ingest colder air. CAIs are more expensive because of the R&D involved in finding the right placement of the filter and the right tubing diameter to keep the MAFS (mass air flow sensor) working correctly.
Rain and Hydro locking and CAIs:
Further reading: http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm
This is what concerns most buyers who are shopping for an intake. Common sense dictates you shouldn't be driving hard in the rain anyway, right? AEM users will get some water droplets on the filter even during light rain, mostly caused by the tire splashes that pass through the left wheel well vents. It\'s not a concern if the filter gets wet. The problem arises if you throttle in hard enough that it creates a strong enough vacuum to pull the droplets of water from outside the filter into the tubing. Lots of times, the small droplets evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber. Sometimes, you'll get a simple CEL and the car becomes sluggish. This can be easily remedied by cleaning the intake tubing with a dry cloth, checking and drying both the filter and the MAF sensor and resetting the ECU or have the CEL code checked for free at a local Autozone before you do the reset. It seems like a lot of work/risk for the cost of using a CAI, but again, you really should be cautious driving in the rain.
If puddles concern you, here are some tips: either accelerate enough before the puddle then let off so the momentum lets you ride through the puddle (TB will still be opened, but the suction won't be as strong as you will be decelerating), or you can cover the wheel well vents with those styrofoam egg crates to resist a lot of the water passing through. The first vent on the left wheel well is about 10in off the ground (~9in. if lowered). To fully submerge the AEM intake filter, the water level would have to be at least 15-16 inches to pass through all the vents or seep in through the bottom grill or the splash shield. 15in is pretty deep!
Where To Buy
therpmstore.com
Ebay.com
3. Custom / Full Cat-Back Exhaust
Cost: $400-$800
Install:1-2hrs
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage, aggressive exhaust note
Cons: N/A
Peak Power Gains: +3hp/3tq
While the 6 sounds fine with the stock system, eventually, you will want to upgrade for better flow and further augment gains from future engine modifications. There are several diameters to chose from ranging from around 2.25"-2.5"
Many budget-minded enthusiasts have decided to go the custom route by choosing their own muffler and/or having a shop fabricate piping and choose their own. Sometimes, if you have not completely decided on which muffler and model # to use, someone in the shop can suggest one for you- just make sure you get a “straight-through” design. Your options are having the shop:
- replace the muffler with a straight pipe and put a canister-style muffler at the end
- replace the muffler with a higher flowing unit and keep existing piping
- replace the cat and muffler with higher flowing units
- fabricate wider piping (as long as it’s wider than 2”) and replacing cat and muffler
It should be noted that the “crush-bent” method of bending your custom pipes is not recommended for the best top-end exhaust flow as that method just bends the pipes by force creating an uneven surface at the inside of the bend. It’s “ok” for bumper to bumper and low speed cruising, but once you reach high speeds, you’d want the flow provided by mandrel-bent pipes. Mandrel-bends and larger piping costs extra, and before you know it, your custom exhaust cost can go above $300. For a little more, you can have a full cat-back from one of the kits being mass-produced. If you’re keeping your 6 for a very long time and want to spend the least possible, then go the custom route. Once you decide to get rid of your custom exhaust setup, remember that it’s easier to sell a full kit from a well-known manufacturer as they already come in pieces and easily bolt/slip on together. A shop-made kit will have to be cut into pieces by the shop for easier shipping.
4. High Flow Cat:
Cost: $50+ plus install
Install: Shop: 30min-1 hour
Pros: Higher flowing than stock
Cons: Emission testing legality still unknown
This is a short section as not many enthusiasts are running with high-flow cats. They’ve either stuck with their stock cats to keep their exhaust decibels low, or went straight to test/race pipe setups to have the most gains. The exhaust flow of an aftermarket catalytic convert will almost always exceed that of a stock depending the number of cells it has. The more cells, the more efficient, but it becomes more restrictive. The better ones can cost more than a full exhaust system, but will nowhere reach the power gains of a straight pipe, as it\'s still a cat.
If you wish to use a HFC (high flow cat), someone in a muffler shop can help you choose the right one. The highest flowing ones will be the cheapest/lowest quality as they are built with the least number of cells and precious metals. There should be many brands to choose from, good or bad, as they are universal. A suggestion is find a cat closest to the design of the stock. That style offers the least turbulence.
If you’re going to get one, find the most narrow HFC that has the inlet and outlet matching your exhaust piping, not wide like a muffler, to reduce some exhaust turbulence during high RPM driving.
5. Mounts
Install: 30-90min
Pros: Better shift feel, reduced engine movement and wheel hop for better acceleration
Cons: Lots of cabin vibrations during the first weeks of break-in, some small vibrations felt after break-in. Huge increase in sound when adding the AWR tranny mount.
A stiffer engine/tranny mount can be installed in place of the much softer stock mount. This reduces wheel hop and the bucking from the engine during shifts and hard acceleration. You can easily see the engine buck hard during a simple up shift during a dyno session. The play looks to be almost 3 inches. With a stiffer rear engine mount, you\'ll have to pay close attention or else you\'ll miss seeing your engine just nudge during the break-in period.
The cabin can vibrate strongly during the mount\'s beak-in period, but only at around 1K rpm. The dash, seats, shifter, floor, steering wheel will be vibrating. Over or under that, the vibration subsides. After a few weeks, you only get very little, if any. I get mine at idle speed (at a stop light) when the A/C is on, or when I just start moving from a stop.
Where To Buy
F2usa.com [Lower engine mount]
AWR- http://www.awrracing.com/store/index.php?cPath=34_135
6. Throttle Body
Install: 10-30min Remove intake from Throttle body, remove 4 screws in TB, Take off coolant lines, place new TB in position, re-connect everything.
Pros: +4whp/+4tq in higher rpm range
Cons: NA
These are \'factory new\' Mazda throttle bodies that are fully optimized and polished to provide over 15% more air flow area than the stock unit! This increased air flow results in dyno proven increases in HP and torque for better throttle response you can feel across the entire rev range. These throttle bodies are not only larger in area, but also provide a smoother air flow for reduced intake turbulence using the following optimization techniques
Where To Buy
http://cordovamotorsports.com/
*************** Special thanks to Business for this write-up***************
7. Transmission Cooler (by B&M)
Price: $40-70
Install: 1 hour or less
Pros: Cooler transmission temperatures for better reliability and longer life, slightly increased ATF capacity, better shifting and response from cooler temperatures
Cons: Paranoia of a fitting coming loose and a hose sliding off, Mazda doesn\'t have these on the cars to begin with.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
Heat is the ultimate killer of transmissions. A 25º reduction in operating temperature can result in 20,000 or more miles on a transmission over the course of it\'s life. Transmission coolers on other vehicles have shown 35º-45º drops in operating temperatures.
B&M is one of the most trusted names in this category and the model recommended is the 70264 or 70268. The 70264 comes with an install kit including brackets, is .75\" thicker, and has a higher BTU rating than the 70268
Where To Buy
Summit Racing
Amazon
1. Ignition Timing Advance
2. SRI/CAI
3. Rear Muffler / Cat Back
4. High-Flow Cat or
5. Mounts
6. Throttle Body
7. Transmission Cooler
The mods in this stage will yield a decent increase in gas mileage and a really good gain in both horsepower and torque once completed- around gains of 10whp/10wtq peak!! The installs are relatively easy, which anyone can do with the right tools, but you might have to have a shop install your exhaust modifications as it requires 1 or 2 cuts into the stock system and possibly some welding involved.
1. Ignition Timing Advance
Price: $0
Install: 20-40min
Further Reading http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S10_Timing.html
Pros: Take advantage of higher octane, smoother acceleration, more hp/tq, ECU pulls back when engine knocking is detected
Cons: Cost of using higher octane, Possible knocking from 87
Peak Power Gains: +6whp/3wtq (using 89 octane and timing vs. 87; your mileage may vary)
What you\'re basically doing is igniting the fuel mixture a little sooner by moving the slotted crank position sensor to advance the ignition timing. It will still be within factory specs (8° BTDC set at factory according to Service Manual, 10° BTDC according to Service Highlights- that info alone could be why some stock 6s are putting out slightly higher #s than others). This modification only deals with the ignition; the cam is not affected- therefore, the VVT operations/changes will still engage at the same rpms. While 87 octane works with this modification, those who have experienced knocking/pinging use 89 octane to compensate.
I advise you to reset the ECU so the timing curves/maps can be learned quicker. It will most likely stall just once while trying to find the new idle speed (it won’t stall again while it’s idle hunting the next time you reset the ECU). Some users report a slightly lower idle speed after doing this mod, so don't be surprised if it drops lower than you're used to. You might also want to add some fuel injector cleaner every few tanks if you’re using 89 or higher.
My observations on different octane after this mod:
I've tried running 87 and it didn't seem to accelerate as fast on the freeway (ECU possibly retarding back the timing to a "safer" level). Burned through 2 gallons pretty fast though. I feel almost no difference between 89 and 91 for my 6, but both allow me to get better performance and smoother/quicker acceleration at the cost of lower gas mileage compared to the 87.
From Monzsta, the mod's originator:
Factory timing is highly conservative, plus the ever-present knock sensor will protect the engine. Worst case scenario is the mod won't show any gains, meaning that the engine is utilizing all the advance it had previous, and the ecm is pulling out the added timing due to spark knock. Being users of this mod ARE reporting gains, it would seem the engine can use more timing. My car hasn't shown any improvement in stock form with 87 vs. 93 octane and it seems to now after advancing the timing, indicating the ecm is finally using the knock sensor to determine what grade of fuel I'm running and adapting it's timing maps to compensate. (as it should if the engine were in a max effort tune from the factory, like a 'Vette's.)
Timing Advance + 89 octane dyno:
@3.5k: +2hp, 4tq
@4.5k: +3hp, 4tq
@5.5k: +4hp, 4tq
@6.0k: +5hp, 4tq
@6.5k: +5hp, 4tq
Pictures provided by Werm
2.Short Ram Intake / Cold Air Intake
Cost: $180-350
Install: 1-2hrs / 10-30mins if resonator is removed (resonator removal install: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60565)
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage
Cons: Concerns of hydrolock
Peak Power Gains: varies (reported gains from 6-8hp)
There will always be a debate whether SRI or CAIs are better for the 3. The easiest way to look at it is that the generally cheaper SRI tubing is short and relies on vehicle speed to provide the engine with cold air while moving. A CAI’s tubing is longer and its filter sits much lower allowing the engine to ingest colder air. CAIs are more expensive because of the R&D involved in finding the right placement of the filter and the right tubing diameter to keep the MAFS (mass air flow sensor) working correctly.
Rain and Hydro locking and CAIs:
Further reading: http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm
This is what concerns most buyers who are shopping for an intake. Common sense dictates you shouldn't be driving hard in the rain anyway, right? AEM users will get some water droplets on the filter even during light rain, mostly caused by the tire splashes that pass through the left wheel well vents. It\'s not a concern if the filter gets wet. The problem arises if you throttle in hard enough that it creates a strong enough vacuum to pull the droplets of water from outside the filter into the tubing. Lots of times, the small droplets evaporate before it reaches the combustion chamber. Sometimes, you'll get a simple CEL and the car becomes sluggish. This can be easily remedied by cleaning the intake tubing with a dry cloth, checking and drying both the filter and the MAF sensor and resetting the ECU or have the CEL code checked for free at a local Autozone before you do the reset. It seems like a lot of work/risk for the cost of using a CAI, but again, you really should be cautious driving in the rain.
If puddles concern you, here are some tips: either accelerate enough before the puddle then let off so the momentum lets you ride through the puddle (TB will still be opened, but the suction won't be as strong as you will be decelerating), or you can cover the wheel well vents with those styrofoam egg crates to resist a lot of the water passing through. The first vent on the left wheel well is about 10in off the ground (~9in. if lowered). To fully submerge the AEM intake filter, the water level would have to be at least 15-16 inches to pass through all the vents or seep in through the bottom grill or the splash shield. 15in is pretty deep!
Where To Buy
therpmstore.com
Ebay.com
3. Custom / Full Cat-Back Exhaust
Cost: $400-$800
Install:1-2hrs
Pros: More hp, torque, gas mileage, aggressive exhaust note
Cons: N/A
Peak Power Gains: +3hp/3tq
While the 6 sounds fine with the stock system, eventually, you will want to upgrade for better flow and further augment gains from future engine modifications. There are several diameters to chose from ranging from around 2.25"-2.5"
Many budget-minded enthusiasts have decided to go the custom route by choosing their own muffler and/or having a shop fabricate piping and choose their own. Sometimes, if you have not completely decided on which muffler and model # to use, someone in the shop can suggest one for you- just make sure you get a “straight-through” design. Your options are having the shop:
- replace the muffler with a straight pipe and put a canister-style muffler at the end
- replace the muffler with a higher flowing unit and keep existing piping
- replace the cat and muffler with higher flowing units
- fabricate wider piping (as long as it’s wider than 2”) and replacing cat and muffler
It should be noted that the “crush-bent” method of bending your custom pipes is not recommended for the best top-end exhaust flow as that method just bends the pipes by force creating an uneven surface at the inside of the bend. It’s “ok” for bumper to bumper and low speed cruising, but once you reach high speeds, you’d want the flow provided by mandrel-bent pipes. Mandrel-bends and larger piping costs extra, and before you know it, your custom exhaust cost can go above $300. For a little more, you can have a full cat-back from one of the kits being mass-produced. If you’re keeping your 6 for a very long time and want to spend the least possible, then go the custom route. Once you decide to get rid of your custom exhaust setup, remember that it’s easier to sell a full kit from a well-known manufacturer as they already come in pieces and easily bolt/slip on together. A shop-made kit will have to be cut into pieces by the shop for easier shipping.
4. High Flow Cat:
Cost: $50+ plus install
Install: Shop: 30min-1 hour
Pros: Higher flowing than stock
Cons: Emission testing legality still unknown
This is a short section as not many enthusiasts are running with high-flow cats. They’ve either stuck with their stock cats to keep their exhaust decibels low, or went straight to test/race pipe setups to have the most gains. The exhaust flow of an aftermarket catalytic convert will almost always exceed that of a stock depending the number of cells it has. The more cells, the more efficient, but it becomes more restrictive. The better ones can cost more than a full exhaust system, but will nowhere reach the power gains of a straight pipe, as it\'s still a cat.
If you wish to use a HFC (high flow cat), someone in a muffler shop can help you choose the right one. The highest flowing ones will be the cheapest/lowest quality as they are built with the least number of cells and precious metals. There should be many brands to choose from, good or bad, as they are universal. A suggestion is find a cat closest to the design of the stock. That style offers the least turbulence.
If you’re going to get one, find the most narrow HFC that has the inlet and outlet matching your exhaust piping, not wide like a muffler, to reduce some exhaust turbulence during high RPM driving.
5. Mounts
Install: 30-90min
Pros: Better shift feel, reduced engine movement and wheel hop for better acceleration
Cons: Lots of cabin vibrations during the first weeks of break-in, some small vibrations felt after break-in. Huge increase in sound when adding the AWR tranny mount.
A stiffer engine/tranny mount can be installed in place of the much softer stock mount. This reduces wheel hop and the bucking from the engine during shifts and hard acceleration. You can easily see the engine buck hard during a simple up shift during a dyno session. The play looks to be almost 3 inches. With a stiffer rear engine mount, you\'ll have to pay close attention or else you\'ll miss seeing your engine just nudge during the break-in period.
The cabin can vibrate strongly during the mount\'s beak-in period, but only at around 1K rpm. The dash, seats, shifter, floor, steering wheel will be vibrating. Over or under that, the vibration subsides. After a few weeks, you only get very little, if any. I get mine at idle speed (at a stop light) when the A/C is on, or when I just start moving from a stop.
Where To Buy
F2usa.com [Lower engine mount]
AWR- http://www.awrracing.com/store/index.php?cPath=34_135
6. Throttle Body
Install: 10-30min Remove intake from Throttle body, remove 4 screws in TB, Take off coolant lines, place new TB in position, re-connect everything.
Pros: +4whp/+4tq in higher rpm range
Cons: NA
These are \'factory new\' Mazda throttle bodies that are fully optimized and polished to provide over 15% more air flow area than the stock unit! This increased air flow results in dyno proven increases in HP and torque for better throttle response you can feel across the entire rev range. These throttle bodies are not only larger in area, but also provide a smoother air flow for reduced intake turbulence using the following optimization techniques
Where To Buy
http://cordovamotorsports.com/
*************** Special thanks to Business for this write-up***************
7. Transmission Cooler (by B&M)
Price: $40-70
Install: 1 hour or less
Pros: Cooler transmission temperatures for better reliability and longer life, slightly increased ATF capacity, better shifting and response from cooler temperatures
Cons: Paranoia of a fitting coming loose and a hose sliding off, Mazda doesn\'t have these on the cars to begin with.
Peak Power Gains: N/A
Heat is the ultimate killer of transmissions. A 25º reduction in operating temperature can result in 20,000 or more miles on a transmission over the course of it\'s life. Transmission coolers on other vehicles have shown 35º-45º drops in operating temperatures.
B&M is one of the most trusted names in this category and the model recommended is the 70264 or 70268. The 70264 comes with an install kit including brackets, is .75\" thicker, and has a higher BTU rating than the 70268
Where To Buy
Summit Racing
Amazon
#5
11-05-2009, 10:30 AM
Stage III
1. Balance Shaft Delete [BSD]
2. Header
3.Transmission bulletproofing [ATX only]
4. Lightweight Flywheel (MTX only)
5. Stronger Clutch (MTX only)
6. Intake Manifold
7. Tuners
We now move on to more in-depth installs and warranty-voiding parts. You get rotational weight reduction with the Balance Shaft Delete and Flywheel, removal of the pre-cat restriction with a Header, more air-flow with the Intake Manifold and air fuel/timing tuning.
1. Balance Shaft Delete [Cosworth BSD]
Price: $25-30
Install: 2-4 hours (http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=44045.0)
Pros: Faster Reving Engine due to less rotational mass, slight power gain, 1 quart oil capacity gain.
Cons: Difficulty of install, slightly louder engine, more noticeable in-cabin vibration, potential problems utilizing engine warranty at a dealership.
Peak Power Gains: +3 hp / +3 tq
The balance shaft delete kit requires someone somewhat skilled in the ways of the automobile. If this is the first mod you elect to ever do to your car and are new to modding in general it is HIGHLY recommended you get someone who has worked on cars quite a bit assist you or do the install for you while you watch. I would suggest this mod to anyone seeking everything they can out of their stock engine without tearing into very costly modifications like flywheels/clutches and the like. While the install time is still extensive and requires a bit of patience it\'s not near as difficult or as expensive as the aforementioned.
The brand of balance shaft delete kit I decided to go with was the Cosworth, for two reasons. It\'s removalable and two, it\'s made by cosworth. There are a few other balance shaft delete kits on the market, such as marcy motorsports and SCI makes one too. The balance shaft frees up some power up high in the RPM band much like a lightened flywheel would, only not as much. It also yields a more responsive throttle and RPMs raise and fall a bit faster. If you are worried about your car being louder or vibrating in cabin or best yet, engine warranty being voided when you see the dealer for service... this mod is not for you. The vibrating in cabin is very minimal and I can\'t feel it anymore, but there is a definite growl to your engine once the balance shaft is removed. The balance shaft weighs in 18lbs and 6 of those are rotational. The added quart of oil capacity is one more benefit, your oil will lose it\'s viscosity that much slower!
Where To Buy
F2usa.com
2. Header (Made by F2)
Price: $350-$450
Install: 3-4 hours
Pros: Freer exhaust flow, more power in higher rpms
Cons: Removal of factory cat, illegal (off-road only), CEL, noise
Peak Power Gains: 10whp/10tq
Every header will throw a cel. This is due to the removal of the cat and 02 sensor errors that result. There are a couple fixes for this the non fouler trick as well as a wiring trick with a small capacitor and resistor both can be found with a simple search. The thunder header had a built in elbow the same as the protege version to remedy this but from my testing it appears to be to far from the exhuast stream. i am getting work done soon to shorten the tube and see if it takes care of the issue.
Install advice
I read the instructions from Draxas but with talking with Juan from HiBoost he said the easiest way to remove the header is to remove the hood and then all the cowl pieces down to the stamped metal. (you must remove the wipers for this as well) then to remove the header from the block and slide it up out of the bay. The only hard part about this is the angle bracket that holds the header to the block is a B*TCH to get off. I hit it pretty good with \"knock er loose\" and then had to have a second set of hands. I was under the car with a box end wrench b/c of clearance you can\'t get a socket in where the bolt is. then i had help from top with another wrench attached to mine into a > shape and he was pushing as i was pushing and we were finaly able to crack the two bolts free. everything before and after that is a breeze, aslo be sure to follow the tq pattern and specs installing your new header.
Gains
Are noticable more in the mid rpm range then anywhere else. I definatly notice an improvement going up the big hills on my way to work i didn\'t have to downshift as i used to. Also it seems to have a nice kick with the vvt change over seems a bit more of an impact then it used to be.
Bean\'s note
Too loud after already having a cat-back, test pipe, and header? Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator or install an ECV (exhaust control valve) to control the flow/volume of your exhaust setup.
Where To Buy
F2usa.com
*************** Special thanks to Business for this write-up***************
3. Transmission Bulletproofing (by LevelTen)
Price: $279-$3000+
Install: 1-6hrs (shop)
Pros: Fully built transmission is able to handle upwards of 450whp, firmer shifts, faster response, better cooling, increased reliability, higher stall speed for launches, etc
Cons: You\'ll have to send in either parts or your whole transmission for a lot of these upgrades, so down time and the high cost doesn\'t even begin to include installation costs
Peak Power Gains: N/A
LevelTen is currently the only manufacturer that offers products/services for automatic transmissions for the 6. They are well known in the racing community and have built some excellent drag cars and have had their hands in everything from the Ford Focus to Mazda3 to Toyota 4Runner.
Please take a look at their product list and give them a call if you have any questions.
Where To Buy
LevelTen
4.Lightweight Flywheel
Price: 400-$500. Install (if done separately from new clutch) is about $500.
Install: 5 hours at a shop
Pros: Quicker revs, slightly quicker acceleration (with a catch, see description), slightly better gas mileage.
Cons: (applies to NA vehicles) Excess clutch slippage is needed to get going, and this extra slippage adds to the massive vibrations of an AWR 70D engine mount.
Peak power gains: N/A
Lightweight flywheels are probably best used in conjunction with a stronger clutch, which are used for future forced induction setups. Almost like the aftermarket clutches, lightweight flywheels are sort of pointless for an NA vehicle, and can actually hurt performance more than help. An NA car will struggle to get the car moving with a lighter flywheel due to reduced rotational inertia in the flywheel. The stock flywheel is a good balance of performance and drivability, once you give it some gas, the stock fly\'s heavy inertia will help the car move forward when finessing the clutch. With a lightweight fly, more clutch slippage is necessary to get the car going. This slippage causes you to wait an extra second or two at any stop. Reason being is that a lightweight fly\'s reduced rotational inertia simply isn\'t enough to get the wheels moving, so you have to hold the clutch until the car begins to move.
Forced induction systems may have it different though. I haven\'t gone the boosted route as of yet, but I would assume that the massive power increase could assist in getting the car going much faster. A turbo would also take full advantage of your new clutch\'s holding power, as well as exploit any lost HP that was regained via a lightweight flywheel. An NA car must rebuild momentum in the lightweight flywheel during every shift, whereas a stock flywheel already has most of it\'s momentum ready to be used.
To make a long story short: don\'t switch to a lighter flywheel without forced induction in mind. I did it, and greatly miss my stock clutch. I hope the Mazdaspeed is still balanced between drivability and performance.
Where To Buy
Therpmstore.com
5. Stage 1-5 clutches
Price:usually between $400-$500 depending on the brand. Roughly $500 if a shop installs it for you.
Install: 5 hours. Strongly recommend taking it to the shop (unless you\'re comfortable dismantling the area around the tranny)
Review: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=28493.0
Pros: Stronger clamp load, much stronger torque capacity.
Cons: Expensive, and almost pointless to do if you plan on staying NA
Peak power gains: none
Most aftermarket clutches (including Mazdaspeed\'s) claim around 40% clamp increase and 70% torque capacity. If you have plans to go the forced induction route, a stronger clutch would certainly compliment that. The stock clutch can only transmit so much power to the wheels before slipping up, and it would be both hazardous and embarrasing for your clutch to give out under heavy driving . If a turbocharger is in your car\'s near future, invest in an aftermarket clutch - many clutches have been reported to hold up to 280-ish HP and torque. That\'s more than enough for a basic clutch upgrade. Should you boost over 300hp/tq, you\'re probably rich enough to dish out the cash on a higher stage clutch anyways lol.
Where To Buy
Therpmstore.com
6. Intake Manifold [Cosworth]
Price: $695 [Very hard to find]
Install: 1-2hrs
Pros: Large HP jump, eye-catcher in the engine bay
Cons: \"Should\" have ECU tuning when installed
Peak Power Gains: 10-15whp in upper rpm range
Cosworth has designed a complete new intake manifold from cast aluminum to increase the airflow when compared to the original equipment plastic manifold. The Cosworth cast alloy intake manifold kit is comprised of the manifold and associated fittings and hardware. Also provided with the Cosworth manifold are new o-rings insuring a complete seal between manifold to cylinder head joint.
The main benefit of the Cosworth intake manifold is the higher flow rate over the stock manifold.
Where to Buy
focussport.com
7. Fuel & Spark Tuning [Microtech Standalone ECU & Haltech Standalone ECU]
Price: $1435, $800
Install: 1hr to a day (depends heavily on installer)
Thread: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=53367.0
Pros: Full control over engine (fuel and spark)
Cons: Cost, possible engine damage (dependent on tuner)
Peak Power Gains: 6-15 across the entire power band. (stock vehicle; easily more gains to be had with various boltons and additional tuning. The deciding factor is the tuner.)The Microtech is a standalone ecu capable of controlling fuel and spark. It\'s easily adjustable using a wideband o2 sensor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wideband_%28automotive%29) and free windows based software accessed by a 9 pin serial connection (or USB to serial adapter). Installation consists of about 30 wires that relieve the stock ecu from controlling the engine. 8 injector wires (2 per cylinder), 8 coilpack wires (2 per cylinder), 2 water temp sensor (water temp sensor provided with unit), 2 air temp sensor (air temp sensor provided with unit), 1 switch signal, 3 power (fuel/spark/coilpack relay), 3 ground (fuel/spark controller, relay for coil packs), 2 for crank angle sensor, 2 for the cam angle sensor. Additional wiring for various other aux inputs and outputs are available (fan controls, aftermarket tach, vis controls, wideband o2).
What you get in the box
Microtech LT10 (controls fuel), X4 (controls spark) wiring harness for both units, relay for coil trigger, fuse holder/fuse for power connections, vacuum hose, manuals (PDF/paper), a sweet sticker, base map, serial adapter (used for storing maps) and most of all a little special time with Steve @ NSN if needed. All instructions are provided as a step by step for install and a tuning tutorial to get you on your way to fine tuning.
Extras Needed: Soldering iron/solder/skill, shrink wrap tubing, electrical tape, wire loom, wire cutters/crimper, end crimps (14-18 gauge), multimeter(not needed but good for verifying connections), ring terminals (power/ground), wideband o2/gauge and patience/time.
Ending Notes
Have plenty of time to perform the install and follow ALL directions and you\'ll have little trouble. Be prepared to cut the factory harness for the injectors and coils. DO NOT try to make it look \"pretty\" out of the box, get the system up and running before tucking and looming extra wires. Check all connections 3 times and don\'t monkey with software till you know what you\'re doing. Have a question? contact Steve @ NSN via email or phone.
Where to buy
Mazda6online.com
What you get in the box
The F10X System optimises engine performance through the following capabilities:
Complete 3D fuel control (1024 points)
Dual fuel maps
Fuel correction maps
Closed loop fuel injection and idle speed control
4 user definable outputs
Datalogging
Windows software
The F10X is much more than a programmable fuel injection computer - it provides logging of engine data and allows access in real time to maximise performance and trouble-shoot problems in a vehicle while running.
Typical Applications:
Control of fuel injection on modified engines
Conversion from carburetion to fuel injection
Race and rally applications of all description
Design and development purposes
Educational use by universities and technical colleges
Original equipment in cars and motorcycles.
Where To Buy
Ebay-$800
I take no credit for any of this information, it is a direct copy and paste from www.6crew.com but the information is too good not to share with the 6 community as a whole.
1. Balance Shaft Delete [BSD]
2. Header
3.Transmission bulletproofing [ATX only]
4. Lightweight Flywheel (MTX only)
5. Stronger Clutch (MTX only)
6. Intake Manifold
7. Tuners
We now move on to more in-depth installs and warranty-voiding parts. You get rotational weight reduction with the Balance Shaft Delete and Flywheel, removal of the pre-cat restriction with a Header, more air-flow with the Intake Manifold and air fuel/timing tuning.
1. Balance Shaft Delete [Cosworth BSD]
Price: $25-30
Install: 2-4 hours (http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=44045.0)
Pros: Faster Reving Engine due to less rotational mass, slight power gain, 1 quart oil capacity gain.
Cons: Difficulty of install, slightly louder engine, more noticeable in-cabin vibration, potential problems utilizing engine warranty at a dealership.
Peak Power Gains: +3 hp / +3 tq
The balance shaft delete kit requires someone somewhat skilled in the ways of the automobile. If this is the first mod you elect to ever do to your car and are new to modding in general it is HIGHLY recommended you get someone who has worked on cars quite a bit assist you or do the install for you while you watch. I would suggest this mod to anyone seeking everything they can out of their stock engine without tearing into very costly modifications like flywheels/clutches and the like. While the install time is still extensive and requires a bit of patience it\'s not near as difficult or as expensive as the aforementioned.
The brand of balance shaft delete kit I decided to go with was the Cosworth, for two reasons. It\'s removalable and two, it\'s made by cosworth. There are a few other balance shaft delete kits on the market, such as marcy motorsports and SCI makes one too. The balance shaft frees up some power up high in the RPM band much like a lightened flywheel would, only not as much. It also yields a more responsive throttle and RPMs raise and fall a bit faster. If you are worried about your car being louder or vibrating in cabin or best yet, engine warranty being voided when you see the dealer for service... this mod is not for you. The vibrating in cabin is very minimal and I can\'t feel it anymore, but there is a definite growl to your engine once the balance shaft is removed. The balance shaft weighs in 18lbs and 6 of those are rotational. The added quart of oil capacity is one more benefit, your oil will lose it\'s viscosity that much slower!
Where To Buy
F2usa.com
2. Header (Made by F2)
Price: $350-$450
Install: 3-4 hours
Pros: Freer exhaust flow, more power in higher rpms
Cons: Removal of factory cat, illegal (off-road only), CEL, noise
Peak Power Gains: 10whp/10tq
Every header will throw a cel. This is due to the removal of the cat and 02 sensor errors that result. There are a couple fixes for this the non fouler trick as well as a wiring trick with a small capacitor and resistor both can be found with a simple search. The thunder header had a built in elbow the same as the protege version to remedy this but from my testing it appears to be to far from the exhuast stream. i am getting work done soon to shorten the tube and see if it takes care of the issue.
Install advice
I read the instructions from Draxas but with talking with Juan from HiBoost he said the easiest way to remove the header is to remove the hood and then all the cowl pieces down to the stamped metal. (you must remove the wipers for this as well) then to remove the header from the block and slide it up out of the bay. The only hard part about this is the angle bracket that holds the header to the block is a B*TCH to get off. I hit it pretty good with \"knock er loose\" and then had to have a second set of hands. I was under the car with a box end wrench b/c of clearance you can\'t get a socket in where the bolt is. then i had help from top with another wrench attached to mine into a > shape and he was pushing as i was pushing and we were finaly able to crack the two bolts free. everything before and after that is a breeze, aslo be sure to follow the tq pattern and specs installing your new header.
Gains
Are noticable more in the mid rpm range then anywhere else. I definatly notice an improvement going up the big hills on my way to work i didn\'t have to downshift as i used to. Also it seems to have a nice kick with the vvt change over seems a bit more of an impact then it used to be.
Bean\'s note
Too loud after already having a cat-back, test pipe, and header? Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator or install an ECV (exhaust control valve) to control the flow/volume of your exhaust setup.
Where To Buy
F2usa.com
*************** Special thanks to Business for this write-up***************
3. Transmission Bulletproofing (by LevelTen)
Price: $279-$3000+
Install: 1-6hrs (shop)
Pros: Fully built transmission is able to handle upwards of 450whp, firmer shifts, faster response, better cooling, increased reliability, higher stall speed for launches, etc
Cons: You\'ll have to send in either parts or your whole transmission for a lot of these upgrades, so down time and the high cost doesn\'t even begin to include installation costs
Peak Power Gains: N/A
LevelTen is currently the only manufacturer that offers products/services for automatic transmissions for the 6. They are well known in the racing community and have built some excellent drag cars and have had their hands in everything from the Ford Focus to Mazda3 to Toyota 4Runner.
Please take a look at their product list and give them a call if you have any questions.
Where To Buy
LevelTen
4.Lightweight Flywheel
Price: 400-$500. Install (if done separately from new clutch) is about $500.
Install: 5 hours at a shop
Pros: Quicker revs, slightly quicker acceleration (with a catch, see description), slightly better gas mileage.
Cons: (applies to NA vehicles) Excess clutch slippage is needed to get going, and this extra slippage adds to the massive vibrations of an AWR 70D engine mount.
Peak power gains: N/A
Lightweight flywheels are probably best used in conjunction with a stronger clutch, which are used for future forced induction setups. Almost like the aftermarket clutches, lightweight flywheels are sort of pointless for an NA vehicle, and can actually hurt performance more than help. An NA car will struggle to get the car moving with a lighter flywheel due to reduced rotational inertia in the flywheel. The stock flywheel is a good balance of performance and drivability, once you give it some gas, the stock fly\'s heavy inertia will help the car move forward when finessing the clutch. With a lightweight fly, more clutch slippage is necessary to get the car going. This slippage causes you to wait an extra second or two at any stop. Reason being is that a lightweight fly\'s reduced rotational inertia simply isn\'t enough to get the wheels moving, so you have to hold the clutch until the car begins to move.
Forced induction systems may have it different though. I haven\'t gone the boosted route as of yet, but I would assume that the massive power increase could assist in getting the car going much faster. A turbo would also take full advantage of your new clutch\'s holding power, as well as exploit any lost HP that was regained via a lightweight flywheel. An NA car must rebuild momentum in the lightweight flywheel during every shift, whereas a stock flywheel already has most of it\'s momentum ready to be used.
To make a long story short: don\'t switch to a lighter flywheel without forced induction in mind. I did it, and greatly miss my stock clutch. I hope the Mazdaspeed is still balanced between drivability and performance.
Where To Buy
Therpmstore.com
5. Stage 1-5 clutches
Price:usually between $400-$500 depending on the brand. Roughly $500 if a shop installs it for you.
Install: 5 hours. Strongly recommend taking it to the shop (unless you\'re comfortable dismantling the area around the tranny)
Review: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=28493.0
Pros: Stronger clamp load, much stronger torque capacity.
Cons: Expensive, and almost pointless to do if you plan on staying NA
Peak power gains: none
Most aftermarket clutches (including Mazdaspeed\'s) claim around 40% clamp increase and 70% torque capacity. If you have plans to go the forced induction route, a stronger clutch would certainly compliment that. The stock clutch can only transmit so much power to the wheels before slipping up, and it would be both hazardous and embarrasing for your clutch to give out under heavy driving . If a turbocharger is in your car\'s near future, invest in an aftermarket clutch - many clutches have been reported to hold up to 280-ish HP and torque. That\'s more than enough for a basic clutch upgrade. Should you boost over 300hp/tq, you\'re probably rich enough to dish out the cash on a higher stage clutch anyways lol.
Where To Buy
Therpmstore.com
6. Intake Manifold [Cosworth]
Price: $695 [Very hard to find]
Install: 1-2hrs
Pros: Large HP jump, eye-catcher in the engine bay
Cons: \"Should\" have ECU tuning when installed
Peak Power Gains: 10-15whp in upper rpm range
Cosworth has designed a complete new intake manifold from cast aluminum to increase the airflow when compared to the original equipment plastic manifold. The Cosworth cast alloy intake manifold kit is comprised of the manifold and associated fittings and hardware. Also provided with the Cosworth manifold are new o-rings insuring a complete seal between manifold to cylinder head joint.
The main benefit of the Cosworth intake manifold is the higher flow rate over the stock manifold.
Where to Buy
focussport.com
7. Fuel & Spark Tuning [Microtech Standalone ECU & Haltech Standalone ECU]
Price: $1435, $800
Install: 1hr to a day (depends heavily on installer)
Thread: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=53367.0
Pros: Full control over engine (fuel and spark)
Cons: Cost, possible engine damage (dependent on tuner)
Peak Power Gains: 6-15 across the entire power band. (stock vehicle; easily more gains to be had with various boltons and additional tuning. The deciding factor is the tuner.)The Microtech is a standalone ecu capable of controlling fuel and spark. It\'s easily adjustable using a wideband o2 sensor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wideband_%28automotive%29) and free windows based software accessed by a 9 pin serial connection (or USB to serial adapter). Installation consists of about 30 wires that relieve the stock ecu from controlling the engine. 8 injector wires (2 per cylinder), 8 coilpack wires (2 per cylinder), 2 water temp sensor (water temp sensor provided with unit), 2 air temp sensor (air temp sensor provided with unit), 1 switch signal, 3 power (fuel/spark/coilpack relay), 3 ground (fuel/spark controller, relay for coil packs), 2 for crank angle sensor, 2 for the cam angle sensor. Additional wiring for various other aux inputs and outputs are available (fan controls, aftermarket tach, vis controls, wideband o2).
What you get in the box
Microtech LT10 (controls fuel), X4 (controls spark) wiring harness for both units, relay for coil trigger, fuse holder/fuse for power connections, vacuum hose, manuals (PDF/paper), a sweet sticker, base map, serial adapter (used for storing maps) and most of all a little special time with Steve @ NSN if needed. All instructions are provided as a step by step for install and a tuning tutorial to get you on your way to fine tuning.
Extras Needed: Soldering iron/solder/skill, shrink wrap tubing, electrical tape, wire loom, wire cutters/crimper, end crimps (14-18 gauge), multimeter(not needed but good for verifying connections), ring terminals (power/ground), wideband o2/gauge and patience/time.
Ending Notes
Have plenty of time to perform the install and follow ALL directions and you\'ll have little trouble. Be prepared to cut the factory harness for the injectors and coils. DO NOT try to make it look \"pretty\" out of the box, get the system up and running before tucking and looming extra wires. Check all connections 3 times and don\'t monkey with software till you know what you\'re doing. Have a question? contact Steve @ NSN via email or phone.
Where to buy
Mazda6online.com
What you get in the box
The F10X System optimises engine performance through the following capabilities:
Complete 3D fuel control (1024 points)
Dual fuel maps
Fuel correction maps
Closed loop fuel injection and idle speed control
4 user definable outputs
Datalogging
Windows software
The F10X is much more than a programmable fuel injection computer - it provides logging of engine data and allows access in real time to maximise performance and trouble-shoot problems in a vehicle while running.
Typical Applications:
Control of fuel injection on modified engines
Conversion from carburetion to fuel injection
Race and rally applications of all description
Design and development purposes
Educational use by universities and technical colleges
Original equipment in cars and motorcycles.
Where To Buy
Ebay-$800
I take no credit for any of this information, it is a direct copy and paste from www.6crew.com but the information is too good not to share with the 6 community as a whole.
#6
11-06-2009, 01:09 AM
thanks alot for the info i ordered a BSD and im thinkin bout the intake
but will the cosworth intake work for the 6? i read the focussport site and it says it for the focus but will everything line up rite?
but will the cosworth intake work for the 6? i read the focussport site and it says it for the focus but will everything line up rite?
#8
11-09-2009, 03:32 PM
The cosworth manifold will work, but it is not a direct bolt on, there is something that needs to be notched for it to fit.
As for the tuner, there is flash tune that has come out for the 6 (finally), but I can't remember the company's name off the top of my head. I'll look it up and post it on here later.
As for the tuner, there is flash tune that has come out for the 6 (finally), but I can't remember the company's name off the top of my head. I'll look it up and post it on here later.
.. i was also wondering.. is the block for the focus the same as the mazda? i was looking at mayb buying one of the cosworth shortblocks if ther the same block...
