What kind of mileage are you getting?
#11
10-14-2011, 10:25 PM
First fill-up today on our 2012 6MT: 12.9 gallons of 87 for the first 320 miles = 24.8mpg (mixed ~60/40 city/hwy).
Shipo -
Shipo - do you have a link to more info on this? My dealer agreed with me when I suggested an early 1st oil change (an longtime practice meant to get rid of any shavings left by a new, tight engine 'breaking in').
I have to believe that any soluble assembly pastes are gone soon after the first firing up when hot oil circulates around for a few minutes.
I'm not doubting you, just the first I've heard of any 'special additive package'.
thanks!
Shipo -
Shipo - do you have a link to more info on this? My dealer agreed with me when I suggested an early 1st oil change (an longtime practice meant to get rid of any shavings left by a new, tight engine 'breaking in').
I have to believe that any soluble assembly pastes are gone soon after the first firing up when hot oil circulates around for a few minutes.
I'm not doubting you, just the first I've heard of any 'special additive package'.
thanks!
As for shavings, no such a thing these days. It's probably been decades since an early oil change was necessary; manufacturing tolerances are so close these days there really aren't any shavings left behind to drain out.
As for the paste, not all manufacturers use it, but for those which do (Honda for instance) it is meant to serve two purposes, the first to protect the parts following the first start of the engine, and the second is to effectively enhance the additive package of the oil once it has been fully mixed in.
#12
10-15-2011, 06:13 AM
I've got question for you and Shipo. Can you tell me the part# from the dealer for the oil filter? I bought the oil filter from the dealer the other day and told them it was 2012 Mazda 5 and they gave me a substantially different oil filter. One from factory that's on there now is black in color and also fairly large compared to the one I bought from the dealer, which is about third shorter and also it's white, not black like the one is on there now.
Also, I am also willing to consider Bosch extended performance oil filter for about $10 and also trying using the Amsoil synthetic.
Also, I am also willing to consider Bosch extended performance oil filter for about $10 and also trying using the Amsoil synthetic.
#13
10-15-2011, 07:01 AM
#14
10-15-2011, 07:04 AM
Links? No. The say so of a the engineers I used to work with when I was at Mercedes? Yes.
As for shavings, no such a thing these days. It's probably been decades since an early oil change was necessary; manufacturing tolerances are so close these days there really aren't any shavings left behind to drain out.
As for the paste, not all manufacturers use it, but for those which do (Honda for instance) it is meant to serve two purposes, the first to protect the parts following the first start of the engine, and the second is to effectively enhance the additive package of the oil once it has been fully mixed in.
As for shavings, no such a thing these days. It's probably been decades since an early oil change was necessary; manufacturing tolerances are so close these days there really aren't any shavings left behind to drain out.
As for the paste, not all manufacturers use it, but for those which do (Honda for instance) it is meant to serve two purposes, the first to protect the parts following the first start of the engine, and the second is to effectively enhance the additive package of the oil once it has been fully mixed in.
As for any "special additives" to the oil that "aid in the break-in process", that engineer was having a laugh at your expense
#15
10-15-2011, 08:26 AM
Nope, sorry, there have have been lengthy discussions over on BITOG and in other car forums over this very issue, and believe it or not, off-the-shelf oils which have had their additive packages enhanced (either by a direct add or via the assembly pastes) have been the norm for a decade or longer.
#16
10-15-2011, 10:37 AM
I am now consistently getting 27MPG combined. Even with my 3 kids in the car. I now have Mobile 1 0W20 oil in the engine and did noticed that the car's running even smoother.
BTW, we have a Japanese store by where I am and they have this cool automotive after market store which I picked up a few things this morning. They even sell aluminum dead pedals. Only gotcha is that the instructions are in Japanese and the owner hardly speaks any English.
BTW, we have a Japanese store by where I am and they have this cool automotive after market store which I picked up a few things this morning. They even sell aluminum dead pedals. Only gotcha is that the instructions are in Japanese and the owner hardly speaks any English.
our '99 528i (4-sp auto) gets mid to high 20's in mixed driving, can top 30 on long highway runs.
I love E39s, even considered a low mileage '00-'03 wagon before buying the Mazda5. Ultimately, having one complex autobahn-blaster in the garage was enough... right now I'm changing the rear brakes and upper control arms on our 130k miler.
Started out as a simple ($75) abs sensor R&R, but when I had to drill out the old one discovered that the rotors where pretty shot and all 4 upper control arm bushings were also kaputt. Those will cost me ~$500 to replace, or about what BMW would charge me for doing the rear brakes (I can get the rotors and pads for $150 and do it myself in a few hours).
I love E39s, even considered a low mileage '00-'03 wagon before buying the Mazda5. Ultimately, having one complex autobahn-blaster in the garage was enough... right now I'm changing the rear brakes and upper control arms on our 130k miler.
Started out as a simple ($75) abs sensor R&R, but when I had to drill out the old one discovered that the rotors where pretty shot and all 4 upper control arm bushings were also kaputt. Those will cost me ~$500 to replace, or about what BMW would charge me for doing the rear brakes (I can get the rotors and pads for $150 and do it myself in a few hours).
#17
10-15-2011, 06:34 PM
The only additives useful for newly built/rebuilt engines are those that reduce the ability of oil to suspend particles i.e. metal shavings from a new engine.
As you said, modern engines are built to tight enough tolerances that 'breaking in' a motor doesn't liberate enough metal to worry about.
So, if there are no "shavings" (as you agree), there is nothing any additive will do that regular old 0-20W as recommended by Mazda cannot do as well for a new motor.
#18
10-16-2011, 04:14 AM
Thanks Nuburgringer. I ordered the oil filter set with wrench from Med for both my M5 and CX-9. Also, ordered some Bosch Extended Drain Interval oil filter from Amazon. I've been reading a lot about extended oil drain interval on gasoline car, not so much an issue with my diesel as synthetic change interval was 10K anyway. I might just do 5K oil change after all with OEM filters and then go 10K with Bosch and Amsoil Synthetic XL.
Can't personally verify this is the right one, but Med Center lists this one: Genuine Mazda 3 2.0(04-09), Miata 2.0 (06-12), Tribute 2.3 , 09-11 Mazda 6 2.5L, 2010-2011 CX-7 2010, Mazda 5 Oil Filter
#20
11-04-2011, 03:49 AM
I hate to say, as an engineer, have to agree with Nuburgringer.
Well we all know that forums are proven to come up with only correct answers for any question ever asked by man
The only additives useful for newly built/rebuilt engines are those that reduce the ability of oil to suspend particles i.e. metal shavings from a new engine.
As you said, modern engines are built to tight enough tolerances that 'breaking in' a motor doesn't liberate enough metal to worry about.
So, if there are no "shavings" (as you agree), there is nothing any additive will do that regular old 0-20W as recommended by Mazda cannot do as well for a new motor.
The only additives useful for newly built/rebuilt engines are those that reduce the ability of oil to suspend particles i.e. metal shavings from a new engine.
As you said, modern engines are built to tight enough tolerances that 'breaking in' a motor doesn't liberate enough metal to worry about.
So, if there are no "shavings" (as you agree), there is nothing any additive will do that regular old 0-20W as recommended by Mazda cannot do as well for a new motor.