I have 2006 Mazda 5 consuming 1qt of oil every 600-800km's. I have replaced the PCV with no change in oil consumption. While replacing the PCV I could see into the intake side of the cylinder head and I saw what looked like oil running down on the backs of the valves. Also, after examination of the spark plugs, it looks as though every cylinder has been burning oil, but especially cylinder #1 (at least I'm guessing it's #1 - it's the furthest cylinder on the passenger side) So I put everything back together anyway with the new PCV and bought the new seals which have been sitting in my tool cabinet for several months. I am really talented at procrastinating! :-) I've also spent probably over $150 on cheap oil to keep topping it up with. Anyhow, I am just wondering if anyone on here has a step-by-step for the procedure. I have some experience in cylinder head replacement and removing valves, etc. But not on this particular car. I bought a tool that should allow me to remove the seals without removing the head. And I have a couple different ideas as far as keeping the valves from falling into the cylinder. I obviously want to try to do this without removing the head if I can help it. Anyway, yeah, anyone have a link to a step-by-step or video for this? Much appreciated!

 

Create a airline fitting to screw into the sparkplug hole to pressurise the cylinder & hold the vallves in place.

 

A few comments:

• Nothing in your description of the issue said "valves" to me; I am much more inclined to think "rings", and for that you're going to either need to overhaul or replace the motor.
• As for preventing the valves from dropping into the cylinder, the old-school mechanic's technique called the "rope trick" will serve well. Simply pull the spark plug, rotate the engine so the particular piston you're working on is at top dead center, and feed a length of thin(ish) nylon rope in through the spark plug hole until you cannot push any more; the valves will not drop.
• Circling back to the first point, I'm thinking you need to address the bottom end of the engine, given the number of 2.3 liter MZR engine failures, the popular swap is to drop in a Ford Duratec 2.5 say from a Fusion; the two engines are virtual twins externally (with the exception of a few senors and the manifolds, which can be swapped), however, internally the 2.5 has been significantly upgraded. The Duratec motor is more powerful than the 2.0 and 2.3 MZR engines, gets about the same fuel economy, and is MUCH more robust internally.