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Rattling sound in rear wall

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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 10:33 AM
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Default Rattling sound in rear wall

Hello-
We've been hearing an awful rattling noise in the back passenger side just above rear wheel well.
I removed the back seats and peeled back the paneling on the back passenger side.
The culprit is a metal nipple thingy that moves and rattles -- see pics attached and the orange circle in both.
Any idea what this is and how to stop it from rattling?
Thanks,
Paul
2008 Mazda 5

 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 12:56 PM
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That’s the top of your rear shock, have a look underneath you’ll probably find the shock mount has broken. Seems to be a common failure, part is not very expensive. (I’ve done both sides on my 5)
 
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Old Feb 26, 2020 | 09:06 AM
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Sounds like def your rear shock mount. On my Mazda5, mine first went at 80k. Cost 400 bucks to have shop replace. Then about 10 to 12k miles later, they failed again, another 400 bucks. I now have about 107k miles and I hear a sound that I think means they are failing yet again. When they go, they make a god-awful loud noise. Obviously a design flaw when you look at the points of failure. I think next failure I'm gonna try to replace these myself because as stated, the part is cheap - labor kills you though.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 10:40 AM
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Yeah, if you have the ability to do it yourself It’s super easy. Jack it up, remove the wheel, unbolt the bottom of the shock from the swing arm, then the bolts from the top. Swap out the mount and you’re done. Since you’ll have it up go ahead and replace the shock, and do the other side as well. IIRC from the last time I did mine shocks were about $50/side, and the mounts were less than $20/side.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 06:41 AM
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I know the shock mount replacement is doable as a DIY. But for the rear shocks, do you need to compress the coil, which is wicked dangerous, or is that only for the front suspension?
Sorry for ignorance but I've never replaced the rear shock mounts myself before, but after spending 800$+ for the last two replacements, I'm going to invest in a good jack and two jack stands and do this myself the next time they fail.

How long are new rear shocks typically good for btw? tks.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jbcampo
I know the shock mount replacement is doable as a DIY. But for the rear shocks, do you need to compress the coil, which is wicked dangerous, or is that only for the front suspension?
Sorry for ignorance but I've never replaced the rear shock mounts myself before, but after spending 800$+ for the last two replacements, I'm going to invest in a good jack and two jack stands and do this myself the next time they fail.

How long are new rear shocks typically good for btw? tks.
No compression, the rears aren’t coil overs. That top mount is just for the gas shock. It’s probably worth replacing the spring itself too.... it’s farther in on the swing arm and I’m pretty sure is easy to remove once the shock, though I have not removed mine. The spring was improved with an improved spring rate in the second gen..... actually maybe in late 2011, so not even the first runs of the 2nd gen. Will likely give you a better ride to throw into your 1st gen, especially since you’ll have it all taken apart at that point.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 06:36 AM
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Ok, great. thanks for that info. Re the spring. I have a 2012 Mazda5, purchased in 2011, so I wonder if I have the 2nd gen spring or not. Makes sense that if it's easy to replace, I should also replace that with it all apart, as you said. tks much!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 12:01 PM
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I am pretty sure I have the same problem in my 2010 Mazda5 . If it is a problem with the shock Mount, is this obvious and fixable from underneath? My mechanic is talking about taking the internal panel off the car to have a look for the rattle and I would like to avoid this if at all possible.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dotmorris
I am pretty sure I have the same problem in my 2010 Mazda5 . If it is a problem with the shock Mount, is this obvious and fixable from underneath? My mechanic is talking about taking the internal panel off the car to have a look for the rattle and I would like to avoid this if at all possible.
VERY obvious, your rear shock will be compleatly loose at the top! looking up in the wheel well you'll see the mount and should be able to visibly see if it is broken as well. The repair is done from outside the car, the bolts are welded into place, the only reason to pull the panels to replace that mount is if the bolts have broken off and need to be replaced.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jbcampo
I know the shock mount replacement is doable as a DIY. But for the rear shocks, do you need to compress the coil, which is wicked dangerous, or is that only for the front suspension?
Sorry for ignorance but I've never replaced the rear shock mounts myself before, but after spending 800$+ for the last two replacements, I'm going to invest in a good jack and two jack stands and do this myself the next time they fail.

How long are new rear shocks typically good for btw? tks.
$800!?!?! GACK! My mechanic charged me $50/side parts and labor to replace the mounts.
 
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