Hi has anyone done this themselves ??

It says in the hand book that after a change the ecu needs to be reset or damage will occur and that this need to be carried out within 600miles.

It says that a Mazda authorised repairer is the place to get it done basically saying that you cant change your own oil or get it done at any other garage for that matter that doesnt have Mazda diagnostic tools.

I am sure that it is illegal for manufacturers to force you to use main dealers even when car is under warranty.

Any ideas ??

 

As far as I can make out the DPF needs to be reset when the engine oil is changed. I don't know whether this includes a regeneration of the DPF or not but it probably does. If you do change your own oil make sure you buy a Mazda/Ford specific oil. That's 5w30 fully synthetic that meets C1 standard. Anything else and you will damage the DPF and exhaust sensors. I know Carlube make a suitable oil that's available from EuroCarParts, if you have one local to you. I'll have a check on my diagnostic kit and see if it will reset the DPF, if it does then most garage's equipment should do it.

 

Thanks Nick - I agree about the correct oil. Mazda Dexelia DPF is £34.99 for 5 litres from the dealer which is probably the best way to go if the car is in warranty.

Think the reset is omething called OILDIL from doing a search on the web which I assume relates to how much diesel has diluted the oil.

One dealer said it would damage the DPF if the reset wasnt carried out & wanted £80 for the privilege.

Another said that the DPF light might come on but it could wait till the next service which is due in 3 months anyway.

 

Found the following. Hope it is of interest.

Regards

Sally (UK)

If you change your oil yourself on your mazda YOU MUST take your car to the mazda(tm) garage to get its DPF management reset and its Injector wave diagram reset otherwise the computer will use old combustion statistics for your new oil which will result in excessive knocking and a 30% or above loss of acceleration, efficiency and maintaining a top speed other than damaging the engine using the incorrect configuration.

 

I can't believe they don't just put a button somewhere near the engine to do the reset. Having said that perhaps they do - I'm calling in at my local garage next week (who did my last service). I'll ask them how it's done when I'm there...

 

So basically holding you to ransom to go to a main dealer to get your oil changed !!

 

Not necessarily - aftermarket diagnostic kits will be able to do this if, they don't already. Mine doesn't but I'm sure that the facility will be included in future software updates. It's not really any different to VW/Audi parking brake where you need to plug in to change the rear pads. This had to be done at a main dealer but now most garages can do it. This only affects cars with a DPF so it's only late cars.

 

Just happened to look at the Mazda Uk website and notice the following under the heading "Petrol or Diesel ?" under Mazda 5 - look like they are fed up with complaints about DPF problems:

"It's a common misconception that your mileage should determine your choice of petrol or diesel. In fact, the decision should be based more on your driving style.

Of course, on paper, diesel will usually have superior fuel economy figures and lower CO2 emissions, and lower road fund license costs as a result. However, the type of driving most Mazda5 customers do won't always make the most of a diesel engine. So, we've teamed up with the RAC to help you make the most informed choice.

Mazda5 diesels feature a Diesel Particulate Filter (or DPF for short). This makes sure that soot in the exhaust is trapped in the system rather than released into the atmosphere. However, much like the bag in a vacuum cleaner a DPF needs to be emptied every so often.

On frequent stop-start journeys, the level of soot builds up faster, which is why the RAC and Mazda recommend petrol-power if most of your driving happens in the city."

 

I understand it affects vehicles from 2005. I agree Mazda are holding people to ransom. What a poor system design approach ie forget about the vehicle owners and increase cost of ownership for Mazda profit. Will not buy another Mazda.
Why must this information have to be accessed/reset by another plug in tool, it should be available on the dashboard or at worst via a lap top.
Welcome to Rip off Britain.

Regards
Sally

 

Hello all.

My car is a 2008 2.0D Sport.

The car is not going to make it between routine services without having an interim oil change. The oil level is about 0.5" from the dipstick "X" but is not quite halfway between services.

I guess the cause is the DPF regenerating too much allowing diesel past the pistons and into the sump.

Has anyone else experience of this? "Honest John" has a thread but apart from accepting additional oil changes it does not give too much detail.

Maybe I need to alter my driving style. Usually I keep the RPM between 1500-1800 and do open country journeys between 10-15 and 45miles with no motorway driving.

Questions.

1. How does the DPF regeneration process work and what actually triggers it? I know it uses excess fuel to burn off the carbon. Presumably it has some sort of sensor but does it work on pressure, differential pressure, measure some sort of gas or what?

2. Once regeneration is started what are the conditions required for it to be completed? I suspect it may be starting but not finishing so it keeps starting again hence allowing more diesel into the sump.

3. Should I be looking to drive at RPM of say 1800-2200 and hence making the engine work a bit harder. Also would periodic 15 minute spells of over 2000RPM help as mentioned in the handbook for if the DPF light comes on.(although in my case the DPF light has stayed off)

4. What is the significance of maintaining 2000RPM for 15minutes?
Is it simply this is the figure at which the ECU triggers regeneration or is it also linked with maintaining temperature and gas flow through the DPF whilst regeneration is taking place?

Any feedback would be appreciated.