I am considering getting a 2016 Mazda 3 2.0 litre. Looking under the hood I saw that it might be extremely difficult to change the timing belt. The first generation did not look too hard to work on. Pretty much like working on a 3rd generation Escort. Did not see anything on YouTube.

 

Only Mazda 3 to Have a Timing belt were the old diesels. All petrols are timing chains.

 

Yeah, I ran across that info after posting. That said, I want to know what has to be done to get to the timing chain. I see that there have been timing chain issues in the latest 3 generation 2.0 Skyactive engines.

 

Can't say I've heard of any timing chain issues on Skyactiv engines; where are you getting your information from?

Edit: I just did a search and couldn't come up with any instances of failed timing chains on Skyactiv engines.

 

Can't find that article. It was about the chain jumping position on sprocket. I suppose that would be a tensioner problem. As I recall, the tensioner issue has been resolved. I did not look into that article as it did not detail how you get to the timing chain on the latest 3 generation.

 

I've checked quite a few of my resources and I'm going to go out on a limb here and say, this is a non-issue.

 

Skyactiv 2.0 & 2.5 ltr engines appear to be bullet proof. Haven't heard of any timing chain issues.

 

I believe you. That said, things like oil seals, and tensioners and water pumps can leak. What I wonder is how difficult is it to get to those items? There was an issue with the timing chain jumping the sprocket on the first year of the latest generation. There is a TSA on that issue. It has been resolved on later years. Just found one link: tp://www.underhoodservice.com/mazda-s-skyactiv-technology/ Mazda has released at least one TSB for the 2.0L SKYACTIV-G engine in the 2012-’13 Mazda 3 and 2013 CX-5. Bulletin 01-003/13 covers a rough-idle condition with an illumined MIL and DTCs P0015 and P0524. The DTC code P0015 is exhaust cam timing over-retarded, and the code P0524 is for low engine oil pressure. The possible cause may be debris in the oil pump pressure relief valve or the oil control valve causing a drop in oil pressure. The recommended fix is to check oil pressure, and if it’s less than specifications (7 psi or more at idle, and 43 to 62 psi at 4,500 rpm), *replace the oil pump and clean the oil pan.

 

I think your best bet would be to assume dealing with all of your "what ifs" are impossible for all but an experienced technician and well beyond your capabilities. With that assumption in place, would you buy the car anyway or would you shop elsewhere?

 

I would not make such an assumption.