Pros and Cons of upsizing tires?
I've always been of the school that says larger tire sizes are better (within limits, of course), however, lately I am questioning if this is still true. Back in the day (when I was working on the BFGoodrich advertising account), car manufacturers would put the cheapest, low-rated tires on their cars, and performance would always be improved by going to a wider width (78 to 70-series), or up a size (225 to 235mm), or a larger wheel (15 to 16"). The only drawback was additional stress on the suspension components, but the handling characteristics were always improved.
These days--and I am talking specifically about my 2018 Mazda3 Touring Hatchback--the wheel size is already large (18"), profile is low (45-series), width is good (215mm), and the handling is already rather good. My question is: are manufacturers (Mazda) doing a better job in outfitting their cars with appropriate rubber? Have the engineers fine-tuned the suspensions to the point where not following factory specs will be detrimental to the overall ride? Is any gain gotten by using a wider tire compromised by the change in suspension geometry?
I know that everyone has their own goals and everything is a compromise. But keeping the overall characteristics of the original ride quality, are there any opinions about upsizing tires? For example, will a one-up size (215mm to 225mm) have better performance, and as importantly, to what detriment in the FWD system?
(in case anyone is interested, I have used the BFGoodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S on my previous car (2010 Mazda3i Hatch)--loved them. Michelin, Pirelli, Yokohama also make excellent tires. The original Dunlops are terrible.)
These days--and I am talking specifically about my 2018 Mazda3 Touring Hatchback--the wheel size is already large (18"), profile is low (45-series), width is good (215mm), and the handling is already rather good. My question is: are manufacturers (Mazda) doing a better job in outfitting their cars with appropriate rubber? Have the engineers fine-tuned the suspensions to the point where not following factory specs will be detrimental to the overall ride? Is any gain gotten by using a wider tire compromised by the change in suspension geometry?
I know that everyone has their own goals and everything is a compromise. But keeping the overall characteristics of the original ride quality, are there any opinions about upsizing tires? For example, will a one-up size (215mm to 225mm) have better performance, and as importantly, to what detriment in the FWD system?
(in case anyone is interested, I have used the BFGoodrich G-Force Comp-2 A/S on my previous car (2010 Mazda3i Hatch)--loved them. Michelin, Pirelli, Yokohama also make excellent tires. The original Dunlops are terrible.)
Besides geometry and extra unspring weight that affects how the car accelerates, handles and fuel mileage. I see no benefit for a daily driver.
Just don't buy cheap tires like Riken or Westlake. They may look good, but they are junk.There are many other decent tires like the Goodrich you mention.
I run Michelin Pilot sports 4's all season in the stock 215-45-18 size. Previous were the MIchelin Pilot sport AS3 and the plus versions
I've always found 99% of the time you get what you pay for. I drove the New Jersey Trpk. for 25 Miles each way for years @ 75 /80/85 MPH every day and additional 50 Mles of main arteries/ back roads and the michelins were like silk compared the Dunlops that came with the car. They handled better and were quieter.
Just don't buy cheap tires....your life depends on them.
Just don't buy cheap tires like Riken or Westlake. They may look good, but they are junk.There are many other decent tires like the Goodrich you mention.
I run Michelin Pilot sports 4's all season in the stock 215-45-18 size. Previous were the MIchelin Pilot sport AS3 and the plus versions
I've always found 99% of the time you get what you pay for. I drove the New Jersey Trpk. for 25 Miles each way for years @ 75 /80/85 MPH every day and additional 50 Mles of main arteries/ back roads and the michelins were like silk compared the Dunlops that came with the car. They handled better and were quieter.
Just don't buy cheap tires....your life depends on them.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Michelin Pilots. And yeah, I suspect that it's not worth going off from the factory specs. I can easily the see the drawbacks (changes to geometry, additional weight/stress, suspension wear) outweighing the benefit of greater contact patch.
I agree—the most important thing you can do for your car is get good tires (and change the oil...). I'm had 2 sets of the BFG Comp-2 before (and loved them), but also considering the Continental DWS 06 tires.
I agree—the most important thing you can do for your car is get good tires (and change the oil...). I'm had 2 sets of the BFG Comp-2 before (and loved them), but also considering the Continental DWS 06 tires.
Not to cause a problem but you may look and first see what Mazda offered for all option of your model. Surprisingly enough you may find that they may have offered what you want to do and therefore finding an aftermarket wheel is not a worry, I am not sure with what you want to do it is a worry or concern anyway. Are you intending on tracking your Mazda or towing anything at high speeds in access of 90 MPH? lol.
And if you used any of the available wheel tire charts you would see that it would not make that much different in speedometer reporting. The brain can compensate is you know the difference.
As for the weight increase again it is a minor concern if you want to call it that on a daily driven VEHICLE.
Anyone stating otherwise is spending to much time on specification instead of doing basic math calculation to see the actual differences.
The operative wording is DAILEY DRIVEN Vehicle
Pilots on most application seem to work very well as reported by customers but there are many other options, and it is hard to rely on pole opinion based on shallow experience levels of the consumer between comparing different tires.
Not that it matters but My 2018 Mazda 3 Touring cam3 with hard run flats and 18inch wheels .215/45-18 I changed them to a 245/45zr17 Riken Raptor and a heavier than factory American racing 5 spoke AR605 Torq-Thrust M wheel 17x7.5. My speedo is 1/4 mile off at 65MPH. I actually improved my 200 ft skid G force. (measured on an accelerometer) So there goes the heavier then factory wheels theory then factory theory by another member.
I also have before and after 1/4 mile time that did not really change much but the 0-60mph picked up .25 seconds recorded at Spearpoint Raceway.(most know it as Sonoma raceway). Ops another theory blown out of the water. LOL
And if you used any of the available wheel tire charts you would see that it would not make that much different in speedometer reporting. The brain can compensate is you know the difference.
As for the weight increase again it is a minor concern if you want to call it that on a daily driven VEHICLE.
Anyone stating otherwise is spending to much time on specification instead of doing basic math calculation to see the actual differences.
The operative wording is DAILEY DRIVEN Vehicle
Pilots on most application seem to work very well as reported by customers but there are many other options, and it is hard to rely on pole opinion based on shallow experience levels of the consumer between comparing different tires.
Not that it matters but My 2018 Mazda 3 Touring cam3 with hard run flats and 18inch wheels .215/45-18 I changed them to a 245/45zr17 Riken Raptor and a heavier than factory American racing 5 spoke AR605 Torq-Thrust M wheel 17x7.5. My speedo is 1/4 mile off at 65MPH. I actually improved my 200 ft skid G force. (measured on an accelerometer) So there goes the heavier then factory wheels theory then factory theory by another member.

I also have before and after 1/4 mile time that did not really change much but the 0-60mph picked up .25 seconds recorded at Spearpoint Raceway.(most know it as Sonoma raceway). Ops another theory blown out of the water. LOL
Last edited by Callisto; Feb 25, 2025 at 05:03 PM.
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